Mohawk

I got mine off ebay, advertised for a whole raft of Suzuki's but its the OD that matters. Measure the ports on your head, 42mm was the largest I could get in mine & the TBR flange is a welded on larger diameter tube. You can see the differences here between TBR on left in black & Motad on right. I had a the O2 sensor boss welded onto the TBR for wideband sensor use.

Updated version with everything in place 🙂

I finally got round to finding the drawing I did for someone a while ago, so here ya go. The shape of this intake duct makes it water free, I have ridden in some biblical rain & the bike never missed beat. If you look at where the air enters, it immediately hits the lower deflector plate, any rain would impact either the fly grille ove the inlet or the deflector plate. The bend at the bottom of the deflector plate has a couple of 3mm holes drilled in the bend to drain water & not shown is the oil cooler mount passes through the bottom of the forward protrusion/lip of the deflector plate, which also acts as a drain hole. Enjoy.

Hi Lance, I see where the problem is there. Not sure in the USA, but over here we have two types of exhaust gaskets. The cheap nasty things you have there which are square section metal coated asbestos substitute, or round section copper gaskets, which look like a bulls nose ring, thus the 42mm OD is the outside of a circlular edge. This gasket type is much thinner & will fully deform to fit the port, crushing from an original thickness of 5mm+/- down to 1.5mm & conforming to all irregularities. The ones you have are quite stiff & don't deform much, plus being square section they have to have a square section port to fit into ! Apologies for not making that clear, but I never use the square ones, I've had leaks with them in the past, so never even consider them ! 😞 The TBR has a very small flange lip compared to other systems, not sure what yours will be like, but worth considering the OD of the flange, has to fit the port obviously.

Well I’ve tried on & off to find a pressure sensor that can measure the pressure in the intake tract, but not found any I could afford. I did create an intake path diagram for someone a while back I’ll try & dig it out.

Very interesting project. Engine is similar to my plans, but no funds to progress 😞 I'm up 25% on the stock bore & my own mods, giving 120hp. Like you I prefer to do my own research & as it appears no one else had done it on the VFR before me, its just been my pastime 🙂 Highside, NZ took my current mods & my 74mm big bore plan & built it, he now has a 140hp 825cc engine, a 47% HP increase 🙂 I have plans for both an 848 & 988cc versions ! Still reading your site, as I'm very interested in what you have done. On the cooling front, I'd advise you ditch the double pass cooling & do what Honda did & feed all rads the hottest coolant at the same time, the greater the temperature difference between the rad & the air, will give the best thermal cooling properties. Double pass wastes half the rad giving it over to a lower efficiency thermal curve. I'm near Bristol, so not far from you if you fancy a chat over a beer or cuppa 🙂 Cheers

You need the Bosch LSU 4.2 for the older MYB or the 4.9 for the new one. The connectors & operation are very different, so you can’t use 4.9 with old MTB. Have a look at the connector on yours, if it was from the group buy or not in the last year then it’s likely 4.2. just match your MTB connector.

Can't recall if I've ever posted these, but here's my old one before & after CBR600 wheel change. It's fitted with Predator 4-1 full stainless exhaust system & made 59Hp on the dyno with 59,000 miles on it, and it as a Hagon replacement shock. I had it for many years before I sold it to buy a CBR600F4. The CBR rear 17" wheel is fitted with a 130/90 section tyre which is 29mm taller than the 110/80 section fitted to the stock 18 inch wheel, thus restoring the stance when moving to the 17" wheel. IIRC the front is a 110/80 which also made the speedo read closer to reality. It may be for sale from the friend I sold it to, as he has not used it for years, I'd buy it back but don't have space for another bike 😞

Good tip with the superglue ! I've used liquid metal or araldite in the past for the same effect. Re steel pistons, well its the fact that the auto industry is predisposed to use steel. It's strong & cheap. Strangely Aluminum is the worlds most abundant metal, its easily obtained, its easily processed & its easily worked. But because alloying was not really prevalent until the late twentieth century, industry used steel & is still a dinosaur using what it knows. R&D costs money after all. Besides, who's gonna buy my spare parts, if no rust & wear. Not to mention, people often think industry exists to make the perfect product, when reality is it exists purely to make profit & that means components designed down to a price point, that will survive the warranty period ! If it was not for reputation, most things would fail just after 1,2 or 3 year warranty period. Then you'd have to buy a replacement ! Alloy is a poor metal for brake caliper pistons due to its high thermal conductivity. Titanium is better, low heat conductivity, lighter than steel, high strength & no corrosion. But it would mean the pads run hotter, so may require different compounds. A Plastic or Polymer may be available that is suitable to cope with both the heat & pressure. But as disc surfaces can reach 500c, with much of that heat being absorbed through the pad & dissipated via the backing plate & the piston contact, then to the caliper body & brake fluid. Which is why brake fluid boils if the brakes are over worked ! YMMV

You would need RC45 fitment. The front wheel will bolt straight in with stock spacers. But on 5/6th gens the disc spacing is wrong, so need replacement discs or spacers. For the rear you would need to convert to a central nut rear hub, then could fit either RC45 or Ducati rear wheel option.

Rode it to work in my summer gear in April !!!! Minor heatwave here in the UK, was cool yesterday morning, was very hot 24c on way home, I nearly melted in my winter gear !

Well I was the UK guinea pig for the RB Racing module as part of a VFRD group buy otganised by CandyRed, so hav8ng had a unit for a few years here’s my view. Y2K VFR800FiY with O2 sensors, my bike is extensively modified. i went the RBR route after having a PC3 with custom maps, but I wanted to be able to play with the ignition timing too, which was not available with the power commander. This turned out to be a blind alley, as the 5th gen even on 99RON fuel will only allow a maximum of 3degrees adjustment, so ignition adjust is pointless & didn’t gain anything. Thus as a fuelling module it is no better than a PC3 with custom map. that said it has many more features & add-ons than the PC3, such as auto mapping, narrowband, Mytuning bike wide and, much better, fuel control management for over run & engine braking etc plus lots of additional things you can add. So my advice to anyone that just wants fuel mods on one bike, get a PC3 or 5 & have it dunno mapped, it’s much cheaper & get# the same result. If you have multiple bikes you can just buy the harness & move the module between bikes, so the Rapid Bike units are much cheaper in this scenario. Or if you want all the advanced functions, then this is the one to get. As we say here, you pays your money & takes your pick. YMMV, HAVE FUN.

The 3rd or 5th gen units might fit, you’d need to do a size comparison. But the simplest & usually cheapest solution is just to get the current one rewound ! You can either do that yourself or get it don professionally.

Stock 5th gen rear wheel is 6Kg or 13.2lb, the front with bearings/spacer/disc bolts (no discs) is 5Kg or 11lb. BST RC45 5.75" width rear is 3Kg & front is 2.5Kg as per above with bearings/spacers/ti disc bolts. My front conversion is minus 4.5Kg (9.9lb) & the rear with quick sprocket change carrier & my own design cush drive is minus 6.5Kg (14.3lb) most of that is off the rotating mass & with carbon wheels its off the rim area, alloy & carbon wheel weights do NOT mean the same thing, as most of the alloy wheels weight is in the rim, so two wheels of the same weight will feel different due to where the weight is. Have fun :)

Come on Chaps, help our Forum, it fell short last year by $700. There are 25K+ members on here, that's 10cents each for a year of advert free VFRD, even if only half contribute its still only 20cents each ! Hit the Donate BUTTON please.

Hi Mohawk, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I can confirm that the 5/6th gen rubbers are the same, but the TB's are different, with different injectors. Not sure on the 8th gen, but its 6th gen motor retuned, so should be the same. No idea on the carbed ones.

Simpler to use GSXR TB's, they are seperate units on the late 90's ones, mounted like carbs on a rail, so would be better suited to fitting as replacements.

So imagine my 120hp VFR :) at 205Kg wet, its a blast :)

Sort that top end fuelling out & you have another 3-5hp for free ! :)

Blimey, and I thought it must be vapor ware :) Get it in a bike & get it running. Check out my mods since this first started, up to 120whp with induction & exhaust mods. I went with an electric water pump, much simpler.

It's the piston area, so the number of makes a difference or the area to be exact. The crf rear caliper piston is 22mm driven by a 10mm M/C for a 4.84/1 ratio. The RVF rear is 1x25mm & 1x27mm giving a ratio of 13.5/1 ratio, so will need a lot more throw to develop any pressure.

I used to get 130mph indicated out of my 1986 one, no GPS back then :(

That Dyno chart is almost identical to mine from years ago, it made 59hp at the rear wheel, stock apart from K&N filter, plus a Predator stainless 4-1 exhaust. It made better mid range with the snorkel in the airbox.