Mohawk

yeah been there done that & 30mm is the most length you can lose & still have a good VS entry. You could radius the airbox mouths & shorten by another 10mm, but not sure if it would flow as much air. The TB's are good for 1mm increase to 38mm, but as per Bioblade testing, they are NOT the restrictive area. Making them bigger will achieve nothing, but messing up the fuelling. Cam lift & duration limit the breathing of this engine. It lacks compression which is easily fixed on the 6th Gen, but much harder on the 5th gen, but can be done.

The RC45 has the same inlet track as the 800, the 45 as standard has a 46mm TB, but with a 40mm velocity stack. The 45 race kit opens this by replacing the VS with full width ones. The man Larry, made a replica set, spent ages on it & LOST power everywhere. Without the race kit, it's a bad idea. My modified VS are 40mm diameter & 30mm shorter, but I've not got round to dynoing them yet. The idea is they should move torque higher up the rev range & thus increase HP. We will see ;)

The journalist that had the BioBlade done told me, that some mild head work (suspect HRC RC45 mods) some cams, new exhaust one off by Arkropovic & an aftermarket airfilter gave it 124rwhp, 130 on methanol. It retained the standard airbox, as they had to pass noise tests !

Yeah the lights on the PC are fuel adjustment not Throttle Position !

Total waste of time unless you are racing, they do NOT do anything useful & are of NO benefit to a normal road machine.

If you look at some of the early V4 collectors, for that is what he has built here, they enclose much of the primary header, so what looks like very short primaries are actually much longer ! You could do the same with this setup, thus giving more baffle area to play with. It's a nice first try, but could be improved as far as sound control is concerned.

Sorry was not meant to be a jibe. The VFR service manuals are online on this site, that's the best place to start if you want to learn, all parts are described correctly & there is a complete coolant flow diagram, which shows what does what & where it is located. The reinforced hose did not seal correctly dues to the top hose mount stub NOT being the correct size ! Even with the 45 degree parts, it would not seal properly, when I measured it it was 1.5mm undersize. I used some heat shrink to bring it up to the required size & its been sealed tight evr since. Good luck with the build.

You can cap it once the system is bled. That said I find it interesting that someone is changing the rad system when they don't appear to understand what all the parts are & there correct function. For instance you think it's the thermostat ! The VFR & pretty much all modern vehicles do NOT have an overflow pipe from the rad, nor a coolant bottle. They have a fluid over pressure expansion pipe that leads to the system expansion bottle ! There is an overflow pipe from the expansion bottle but if that ever leaks you have a serious problem ! I assume you are doing a street fighter. If so & you have mounted your new rad, get a friend to hold the bike up whilst you remove the fork caps & let the suspension down to full compression to ensure the wheel does NOT hit the new rad !

Don't know what the OP is expecting, but I'm up to 107rwhp with a revised inlet/ramair, mild cam job based on RC45 timing & a freer flowing exhaust system with custom dyno fuelling. I just fitted some shorter velocity stacks & have a couple of other ideas in progress, hopefully we can push that number higher, but might take a while to complete, as winter is coming :(

Manufacturers recommended cold pressures are the same the world over, but what really matters is HOT ! Also remember that those pressures are recommended at an industry standard 20c ambients temperature ! What was the temp where you live when you last checked them ? Imagine dragging the bike out on the first dry day of spring in 5c temps checking your pressures at 36/42, then a couple of weeks later you have a mini heat wave of 30c guess where your tyre pressures are gonna be !? Over the recommended setting. Now imagine the difference between setting the cold pressure in Texas summer temps & running on red hot tarmac & doing the same in Alaska autumn, running on cold roads. Do you think the running temp & thus pressure will be the same ? Simple answer NO. Now go adjust your pressures to suit your needs !

The front will always have some unused edge rubber, they are not chicken strips. Just look at the width of each tyre & the curvature. The rear is easy to get to the edge of, all bikes are designed to have some front grip in reserve, as its the one you need most. Watch some racing, the rear slide is relatively easy to control or come back from, the front usually ends in a crash. Check other bikes in parking lots/meets, rears chewed to the edge, fronts generally not ! Your racer friend does NOT understand the VFR's rear hub. Whichever way you adjust it, you will lose something ! Viewed from the chain side of the bike. The best ride height is achieved with the shaft at the 6 o'clock position, buit this is mid wheelbase. The shortest wheelbase is achieved at the (error correction) 9 o'clock position, but this is mid ride height. It's one of the reasons that Honda had so many issues with the RC45, to change ride height changes wheelbase & vice versa ! When you are after that last tenth of a second in racing that matters, for a road bike most people could not tell the difference within the full range of its adjustment, which is from the 8 to 4 o'clock positions for a full chain life which is approx 20-25mm of wheelbase same as every other bike & about 5-10mm of rear ride height !

check out my 5th gen 10 year refresh thread, shows CoP but only 2 wire the pics shw the clearance to the head.

This is a very old thread. Toro has stopped making the supercharger kits, you would have to make your own !

Here's a test for you then, which will prove the point that its the throttle being closed causing the issue. Find an empty bit of road, accelerate to which ever speed you choose in whatever gear you choose then close throttle & measure the roll down distance to a low speed or stop. Now repeat the exercise exactly as the first trial, but instead of closing the throttle, just hit the kill switch & leave the throttle open ! You will find the retardation is much reduced & you should roll a lot further.

As you have both, how does the engine braking compare to your 6th gen ?

You can save a few $/£'s by using a dual vacuum gauge. I do, just connect one to whichever is the non adjustable one on the 6th gen, get the bike to running temperature, then check the measurement, now attach the other gauge to the same source & compare the reading to give you a +/- factor. Return the 1st gauge to the static source, then add the 2nd gauge to each of the other ports & adjust. Remember that everytiem you make an adjustment, check & correct the idle, then recheck all the other ports. I find on my 5th gen when you hit the sweet spot, when you rev the engine, you will hear & feel the smoothness & the engine revs up much quicker & smoother. Feels much nicer to ride once setup correctly. Loses much of the snatch in the throttle & is smoother everywhere. One other thing to check, is to set the throttle free play to ZERO, be careful when adjusting it, swing the bars through there full range, you may need just a smidge of free play, this makes adjusting the throttle at small openings much smoother.

It's a great idea, but to achieve it you would need fly by wire throttle bodies. The main issue is that you want less engine braking, whilst decelerating & keeping, the throttle butterflies open with zero fuel supply will achieve this as you expect. With the TPS at zero & the engine turning, zero fuel is supplied, which is WHY the 5/6th gens have such a strong engine braking feeling. With carbs fuel is always added, so less apparent engine braking. Now if you adjust the butterflies to be slightly open when TPS is at zero, the bike will stall when you stop, due to to much air & not enough fuel. It will also be impossible to balance the throttle bodies vacuum due to there being NO way to adjust the butterflies separately like you can on a carbed bike ! What you really want is a stepper motor with controller between your throttle cables & the throttle body butterfly actuator, i.e. take the cables OFF the throttle bodies & connect a stepper motor there. Then program the stepper to keep the throttle slightly open when bike speed is above say 10mph, but close fully when throttle is closed below that speed, thus preserving the idle & vacuum balance required at a stop. This would require an electronic throttle & some nifty programming & wire harness interface. Alternately you can ditch the EFi & fit carbs, a much simpler solution potentially, but full of it's own pit falls ! Have fun.

Hey Larry, as always excellent work. Love it. I didn't see your CMC front upgrade before, is there a thread for it ? How long did the mods to the disc take you ? That is some serious machining. I've never seen the CMC material in the flesh, is it more like a metal or a ceramic ? Keep up the good work.

Yes replace ! :)

Car type folding mirrors & some older bikes, use a thin stiff flat spring with detents for mirror arm location. You could modify the VFR arm & hanger to achieve this, then use a a kickstart fold out foot piece spring, i.e. those with the top arm that folds out rather than those that pivot at the bottom. Maybe a heavy duty spring washer would be enough. If there is enough room, then you could use pins through the hanger to stop the stalk folding back, so would need to run the tension bolt a little loose & then use a U shaped pin, so it locked out front & rear folding. If yo were really good, you could make a lock like a gun magazine release to lock & release them ! Lots of ideas, or as previously said, just make a new gate !

Basically the rear braking system is the same for both gens. The fronts are slightly different. So if it just moving the lines into the swingarm, then its fine. I had to totally delink mine to fit the single nut rear wheel, but I put the remaining brake line through the swingarm, as per the pics below. The line runs forward from the rear master cylinder, inside of the foot rest hanger, then under the front of the swingarm & enters in to the arm via the square hole that is already there on the left inner side. It exits through the drain hole at the rear, which I rifled/drilled at an angle to make it big enough for the banjo head to fit through & gave the right angle for the hose to exit towards the new caliper ! Have fun.

I've been thinking about this & as the RC51 rads are hard to come by in the UK. Another option would be a second 5th gen rad (which are cheap) welded to the existing one or 2 x 5th gen rads made up to replace the existing one which could be resold. The process is simple, take one rad & cut off the oil pipe mounts, then take the 2nd rad & cut/grind off the frame mounting tab on the top. Drill an 8mm hole in the top at each end inline with where it will align with the holes in the bottom of the first rad & then rim weld them together. Job done, a 4 row cooler. I'd be inclined to replace the pipe mounts with oil cooler hose mounts & have a set made up to replace the oil cooler pipes which are known to corrode & leak on the 5th & 6th gen if not looked after ! This will be my first project next winter

Sorry to hear that your ebg has let you down that badly. I'm an ex mechanic & I hate giving anything to anyone to do stuff for me but sometimes it's the only option & sometimes my worst fears are realised as in your experience. I can imagine how you feel, I'd be gutted beyond belief. I hope you find a solution soon. Good luck.

Try a new approach :) http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/72914-custom-cush-drive-for-vfr800-vfr400-axle/page__hl__+part%20+deux#entry860030