Vfr800witdawaffle

So guys after all this time I got one of the rods and I decided to take a chance going with the oem cbr rod and it paid off. I also realized that I can leave the rev limiter at 13k rpm’s and it would probably last just as long as the original steel rods. The cbr rods are also shorter with a c-c length of 97.25 vs the vfr c-c of 101.5. It won’t really matter though due to the design of the piston.

I also weighed the vfr rod and they are pretty beefy at 290 grams.

@DannoXYZ Thank you that makes a lot of sense. I’m going to be asking a lot of questions to all types of people going forward with this as this is my first custom engine build. On another note I notice the valve recesses on the cbr piston are much more prominent where as the vfr piston is flatter. I think the volumes above deck height might be similar even though the new piston is wider.

So distance from the hole to the top of the pistons measure 14.6mm for the vfr and 15.8 for the cbr. Respectively the holes are 17 vs 18mm. That means piston height is 23.1 for the vfr and 24.8 for the cbr. So my guesstimations are off I’ll need a shorter rod going forward to lower compression. My target is going to be 12:1. Worst comes to worst I’ll back off on timing when tuning.

@Mohawk Thank you for the reply as I forgot to measure the piston height from the center of the wrist pin hole! I remember looking at them side to side and I think even though the new cbr piston has a compression ratio of 13:1 the cbr uses a longer rod by a few mm. If I get custom rods with the same rod length as the vfr, compression ratios should be similar from the old piston to the new one.

I also weighed the pins and the cbr pin is only a couple grams heavier. It’s also beefier looking. The interceptor pin is 17mm in diameter and longer while the cbr is 18mm. I’m going to have to use a different rod. I’m going to look at oem steel offerings from other manufacturers including Honda. Trying to keep costs down and I will not be using titanium. Titanium rods don’t last as long as steel rods when it comes to putting down hundreds of thousands of miles.

So guys the cbr1000rr-r piston came in and I got some photos and weighed it. I’m going to get a better scale as I don’t want to go around balancing the darn crank and I’m also going to see if I can have the oiling holes made a bit bigger at at a good machine shop.

I actually got it for 200 bucks used. Someone crashed one and it was on eBay. I snatched it up once I saw that the price for a new one is 1800 usd on partzilla. I think I’m going to convert it to a closed deck so I can bore it out to 81mm.

Alrighty guys so I bought a spare crank case I’ll let you guys know which route I went with in the future as things progress. Also I’m going to see if I can use the 81mm pistons used in the new cbr1000rr-r sp. I already ordered one and I’m going to see if I can find some new rods to use and I think the wrist pins in the Honda cbr piston are 18mm.

Oh and I apologize. To answer your other question is that everyone is different. Everyone has a different meaning for the word perfect and everyone has different preferences. Everyone is also physically different so what might be comfy for you might be painful for someone else. Whatever you might like I might not. I was originally going to get a 16 aprilia rsv4 but then I would lose that lovely Honda reliability. I’ve put 8000 miles on my interceptor in a little over a year and all I’ve done was do oil changes. Yet it keeps running like a Swiss watch.

No, it’s fine I take constructive criticism just fine. I actually chuckled when I saw your comment. And I was actually going to use an eBay motor so you can rest assured knowing I’m not taking my wondrous 8th gen apart. I love that thing too damn much. I guess you can call it inspiration. I looked at my bike and thought one day. What if Honda made a real 1000 cc “sport” bike around 440 lbs wet. Not a repliracer. They would have the market in their hands most of the people I see ride bikes just ride for fun with their friends and they always go for something cool. And I know that if Honda made a street bike like that it would be awesome. And since they refuse to make it, I will be the one to make it and it will be perfect just for me.

Hi everyone, I thought I would ask this question on this forum since someone might have firsthand knowledge on the subject. Does anyone know what the optimal material for cylinder walls on this bike would be? I’m looking towards long term longevity as it won’t be a race bike. I was looking to do machining and engine work on the upper crankcase to install 81mm 12:3:1 pistons. I know Honda uses mmc liners that are then cast in the manufacturing of the block. I feel though that technology has to have progressed and this might be considered old school technology. I mean c’mon now it’s 2021. I was thinking some sort of aluminum alloy with resistance to high heat and wear would be a good start. Thermal conductivity is important for long life. I was also thinking of diamond like coatings but I don’t think they stand up to high levels of heat for long. The pistons I’m using have an average weight of 240 grams a piece so if anything they should perform better that the oem ones especially in long term. Thanks in advance folks.

Count me in for one of the 8th headers. Actually happy the first order didn't happen yet to be honest. And I wanted to ask if I can also get a custom stainless midpipe too?