Mohawk

If they were that blind, they should not be working on it ! But good spot.

Keef, the 6th gen has CoP as standard, but they are 3 wire with like a block on top that sticks up ! Cogs well, you don,t need to attach them to the cam cover, hence the grommet to fit them snugly in the plug tunnel.

Dutchy, they are mild steel, prone to corrosion. The only company that makes a system for this bike that I could find was Predator Exhausts in the UK, they do a full system. Not sure if you can get originals anymore, they will just rust out again :( Looks like this & found pic before & after CBR600 wheel change

The water pump on 5th--6th-8th gens is on the left side just in front of the gear lever shaft, no need to remove cowls to check the weep hole, Just use a thin piece of wire a fat paper clip for instance, The hole is as shown in the pics on bottom of pump housing shaft extension. Insert wire & wiggle around to dislodge any debris, if you have a smart phone you should be able to get a picture of it.

The weep hole is on the bottom, the picture of the pumps has them upside down. Or to put it another way that would be the view if you lay on the floor with the pump fitted to the bike, so definitely on the bottom !

Well if it ever gets finished, it better be good ! I've got 120whp with only external mods & HighsideNZ has has 140whp on his 825cc big bore version.

There are lots of RC30 & RC45 wheels around both new & secondhand which are a straight mount to the VFR400 axle. Plus the various Triumph & Ducati one if you go that route. Just be wary of 10-20year old magnesium ones especially if ex race !

That's something I forgot to mention as well, the bike used to need a gear change around 2750rpm, will now work fine at 2250-2500 :)

Way to go Phil, looks great. Mine feels much softer on the chain with those new urethane bobbins than it did with the old Ducati ones. Still not convinced on the colour of them though, but if you have a red bike then it fits, totally at odds with my Blue one though. Hmm, must paint my rear caliper to match the front ones in a nice gold ;). Another little winter job on the list.

Flames from/in the pipes can only be caused by unburnt fuel reaching the exhaust system or oil contamination in the pipes. Are you sure the bike is running on all 4 cylinders ? If yes see below. How far have you run the bike since fitting the system ? If not much then give it a good hard run, to burn out any packing oil in the system, better to run at high revs in second or third to get plenty of high speed hot gas through the system. Then check it again, should be gone. Strange it's only out of the left as both are fed from the same link pipe, so I suspect it's just oil in the can burning off.

No standard bike has a compression ratio of 12:1, that is a static compression which no engine used in bikes ever has, as cam overlap loses compression, so dynamic compression ratio is what you need to worry about, on standard pump gas, the max is around 8:1 dynamic, on super that can be taken to 9:1 ish. You can read some info here http://www.visordown.com/workshop/understanding-compression-ratios/15453.html

Not heard of anyone doing it, but VFR12 is 81mm bore as STD, if Honda have kept to their tried & true 17mm wrist pin, then CRF250 or CBR250 big bore kits with 82-84mm bore pistons could be used. I will assume if the liner tech is MMR like most others then you should be able to squeeze a 2mm over bore, but beyond that you will need to go up to 86mm to completely remove the MMR & replace the cylinder wall with Nikasil or equivalent. That would only be possible if there was enough wall thickness left !

Sweet bike, nice rebuild, glad this thread resurfaced as I missed it at the time. Only pity is you didn't ride it at CoTA :( I'm sure the RSV4 is no comparison, a wholly different ride with another quarter century of development behind it ! Not to mention an extra 250cc ;)

Yep with the Yoshi style stacks in place & without ram air, so possibly a few more ponies to come at speed. I just got a gadget that will tell me if I get positive pressure at speed.

That's a DJ250 with brake, but still produces DJ rather than Factory Pro numbers. To my mind, whilst it may not be "true" HP, it is relative to previous runs & most of the published data out there. You should check out those Yoshi Stacks !

Question for Yaman. I had my bike dyno'd yesterday & the factory rev limiter cut in at exactly the same 12,200rpm as before when running on PC3. I requested my unit have a 300rpm rev extend which is not apparent. So my question is this, whilst sorting the fuelling I've had at least 2 firmware updates from Dimsport via the Rapid bike PC software, will these have reset the Rev limit ? To factory default ? All other user setting appear to have been maintained ! If this is the case how can I get the Rev extend back ? Hi Phil, so how's the 825 going ? Wil you get it dyno run now you have a good module ? Here's my latest. I'm fairly certain if I had my missing 300 RPM then it would have hit the magic 120hp I was aiming for ! Be good to see the difference the big bore makes.

There was/is a reason they were called chocolate cam shafts as per the earlier link not oil to head issues ! Additional oil pressure will not help & is not needed, if you think about it, Honda would have built & run a test engine or a few for some very long hard cycling before releasing it as production ready, adt cam bearing wear would have been noted. The reason it wasn't was because the test engines would have been built individually & properly, so no cam issues were apparent in testing. The cockup came during the mass production, where incorrectly hardened parts & incorrect tolerance parts were combined accidentally for the perfect storm of mechanical bad news :(

Just need to understand whether this setup will work with a 929 tripple, which has little room due to a gull wing design Well if you go to superbike bars, you don't need the gulwing top yoke to get clearance for above yoke clipons so you can replace it with a flat top yoke, so the problem will not be a problem !

Well I would agree is it was 2-5hp, but I'm expecting to see 15+hp from your setup. There must be another willing 6th gen owner in the Orlando area that would be willing to have a FREE Dyno run ! Roll up roll up. Get it on.

Ha Ha, there are loads of 6th gen standard dyno charts out there to use as a baseline reference ! For instance or this 2014 one

Phil, whilst that match is correct for the exhaust header connections & factory O2 sensors, its not right for the fuelling ! The factory ECU has a map per cylinder & cyl 1+3 & 2+4 run different maps because the rear two cylinders run hotter, so they run slightly richer than the front two. Doesn't make any real difference, as the O2 output should be the same & the RB Module adds % fuel above/below factory signal, just a point of note. So if say front said 50+RB5% then the rear would send 51+RB5% so a little richer, but coming down to the header merge the O2 sensor would only see an average for those two pipes, so at least the RB corrections now should be better than they were.

Well I applied the updates to mine on Saturday & finally got my wideband O2 connected & took it for 4 rides & abused it in the lower gears to work on the fueling, can't do high rpm in high gears as the speeds involved are silly, saw 125 on the speedo at one point & my speedo is corrected ! It was so rich at low rpm >7K & low throttle opening, all the way to 60% throttle & above 7Krpm, showing 10/1 or higher fuel ratio. Some cells had auto tuned to +30% in that range, all with the old exhaust headers & intake setup last year. The narrow band sensor when removed was black with thick soot ! So after 4 runs & 4 reductions by 50% each run for all + cells between 1500-7500rpm & 5-60% throttle, the engine works like it used to, it was so fluffy from all that fuel, it now responds much better & feels much stronger. So riding to work today & monitoring the readout, it shows in the 12/1 range when cruising & 13.2-13.5 when on it at higher revs. The readout is quite stable, which I was NOT expecting. I'm using an AEM digital gauge with the new Bosch LSU 4.9 Wideband O2 sensor. So still a little fuel tuning to do, then I can concentrate on the ignition map. Hope to get it sorted this week/weekend. Then get a dyno run :) CandyRed, Yamman agreed to give you free dyno runs to check your power, so get over there & get a power run & let us know if those sprint time calculations are anywhere near ! I really want to see a dyno printout from your bike, as do most of this VFR performance community on here. Rush, you could weld 4 O2 bungs into your headers & then run either 1 MTB or 1 O2 sensor like mine & tune one cylinder at a time manually. Cost is 1x O2 sensor system & 4x O2 bungs, plus pipe removal/welding/refitting. Have at it guys :)

I've got to second Dannytb's comments. I have Traxxion cartridges in my hybrid VFR/VTR forks & they are superb. The difference between quality components & cheaper mass production parts is the tolerance for oil control & the setup based on the rider/bike weight & the intended riding. These tighter tolerances allow the use of thinner oils which react better at higher speeds, froth less & make shim stack setup simpler. Racer don't use these quality components because they are expensive, they use them because the stock stuff is marginal at best. The new BPF is the first stock fork that comes close to aftermarket for quality of function, due to the larger control stack area.

Did the lines part, see here;- http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/80631-replace-your-oil-cooler-lines-diy/ I may look at the stacked cooler depending on how the temps work with my new tuning setup, I'm expecting 120+hp. The current 112hp was fine last year with the electric water pump & lower temp fan switch keeping everything at a perfect temperature, even when carving through some hot gorges in Spain last year in 30+C temps. That said, I've already replaced the long rubber hoses on the right side above rad & the cross tube between rads with custom alloy pipes, which definitely reduced the temps a bit. More when I have news.

Dzus fasteners are great, a half twist & they are open. The retained ones are best, as they stay attached to the fairing panel. Not used them on the VFR, but have on previous bikes. Made for racing where they need to remove & replace bodywork quickly !