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mr2racer

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    Toledo, Ohio
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    84 VF750F

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  1. I found the oiling diagram in my Honda factory shop manual. I also found the procedure for testing oil pressure. As usual oil pressure is tested at the port for the oil pressure switch. Spec is 77 PSI +/- 10 PSI at the port at 5000 RPM. When I spoke to David Dodge on Saturday he told me the port was 'metered'. I can only assume that it is because this point is after the main bearings. Still, even on the low side at 67 PSI that should be more than enough pressure to supply the heads. (Has anyone ever measured the oil pressure at the transmission port Honda used?) Also, the 5 - 7 PSI switch point on this switch seems very low to me? Since it is just a 12 volt switch I think it would be a better option to use one in the 12 - 15 PSI range. I still think this oil port is a better place to suply the heads from. I'm going to plastigauge the bearing surface for the cams tonight.
  2. Allyance, This problem gets more depressing with each passing hour. Is the problem between the match of the cam hold downs and the head? Or between those parts and the cams? If the components are unmatched then the original positions of the cam holders would be irrelevant. It might make sense to plastiguage the cams to look for a too tight fit. I was a Honda bike tech in the mid 80's and worked on a number of these engines. We would cup the feeler gauges and adjust the clearance so you had to really push the feeler gauge to get it to move between the adjuster and the valve stem. The manual lists the oil clearence so I think plastigauge would be a good place to start
  3. Hey Terry, where did you get manual adjusters?
  4. For anyone following this thread I've just returned from Autozone, (They're two blocks away) and bought a 2010 Honda Civic oil filter. I did this because Honda only has one car oil filter and that 20 x 1.5 mm dimension sounded really familar. Anyway, the Fram PH7317 oil filter for the Civic fits my 84VF750F engine perfectly! Why you ask is this important? Because any Civic oil filter sandwich plate will fit the engine just as perfectly. They are only about twenty five bucks on eBay. And with that my friends running an 1/8" brake line up into the vee and connecting it to the existing oil lines is easy and cheap!
  5. I've done some more research and thought a lot about this. I believe the cams were soft in some cases and overloaded in all cases. But one of my sets of cams were Yoshimura machined from billet and then heat treated by YOSHIMURA, not Honda. For that reason I think the oiling problem needs to be addressed. I just haven't decided what to do yet.
  6. Ok, I've sent the cams off to be lightly ground and a good used set of rockers to be hard faced. While I do believe the cams were the source of the problem the oiling issue also concerns me. The idea that unfiltered engine oil would be directed to the heads seems at odds with my expirienece of Honda engineering. (I was a Honda motorcycle tech for three years and a Honda car tech for four.) I'm in Toledo Ohio, home of Aeorquip, and have access to just about any kind of fittinges available. For this reason I reiterate, If I were to do an oil modification to draw cyclinder head oil from the filtered system wouldn't it make more sense to draw the oil from the main bearing galley via the port for the oil pressure switch? Rather than the expensive kit or the iffy drill the block method? Can anyone give me a reason this isn't a better alternative?
  7. That's understandable. I also have a 75 CB550. Yosimura cam, 76 750 pistons, kaw 900 carbs, chrome moly backbone and 78 750 suspension brakes and wheels. That's an old one!
  8. Well, first let me say I apologize. I wasn't even aware of the 'welcome section' and when I find it will take advatage of it. gll429, in my research all I found were the numerous articles and oiling schemes. I was unaware of the cam/follower problem as outlined in the article. I read the article through, twice. Thanks for the link! I have a set of race cams from this bike's original engine. On the end of one cam is scribed Pop-Y. I'm assuming this is 'Pop' Yoshimura. One front intake lobe is damaged and most of the others have some chips out of the tips of the lobes. I have a plan. I'm sending the cams and followers to Delta camshaft in Portland. Scott will fix the damaged lobe then ginrd all of the cams to get a smooth surface. Even ground to clean them up they will still have more lift and duration than the stock cams. The cams will then be hardened. The hard chrome will be removed from the rockers and then the rockers will be 'hard faced'. This, I'm hoping will take care of the problem. I think this is comparable to the Mega Cycle process. And Scott tells me this can be done for about $250 complete. But having read the descriptions of the unfiltered low pressure oil used to lubricate the valve train it seems logical to do something about it? Regardless of the reason for this modification, poor oiling or cracking oil pipes, it seems the easiest place to draw the oil from is the port beneath the oil pressure switch. That is the question I really wanted answered. My comment was from amazement that 70 people had viewed the original post but no one had commented. And I was thinking this problem was one that most on this forum would be aware of. Especially with the proliferation of 'oiling kits.' Kevin
  9. No, hole shot, as per your link, is the same as the others. I guess I could have been more clear. My proposed repair is to attach the line to the heads in place of the pressure gauage.
  10. I'm surprised that no one has responded to this thread especially as this problem seems common to so many V-4's. I did find what I'm proposing on a website, sort of, and included some pictures. Notice under description the website says there may be as much as 80 PSI of pressure at this point. Also notice the price difference. The advantege is no drilling. Stock filter. A shorter run for the oil lines. Why hasn't someone thought of this sooner?
  11. Hey All, I have an '84 VF750F that has the usual cam/rocker wear problems. And I've found modifications to increase oil flow to the upper end. But they involve expensive kits or drilling a hole in the lower case, neither of which I'm partial to. In looking at the problem there seems an easier solution. Why not just tap into the oil gallery at the oil pressure switch? The hole is already threaded and is only a few inches above the point where the hole is drilled in the DIY modification. Plus, it is only inches from the existing oil pipe? Kevin
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