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Hello everyone! This thread is actually a continuation of my previous thread about custom handlebar setup question for my 2010 VFR1200F. Since I proceeded to go with the Hurricane handlebar kit setup, I think it is better to start a new post since it is already off-topic to the previous thread. The shipment via EMS to Oman was in-time with the estimated delivery time (surprisingly fast). The kit came as a bundle and was decent. The kit is high quality I can say. The instruction given was Japanese only, so I used Google Translate, but overall setup was easy. The handlebar came with pre-machined switch holes and bar-end inner weight clip holes. I decided to took the inner weight from the stock handlebar and put it in the Hurricane bar, it worked perfectly. After tweaking the position of the handlebar with several rides, I found that the best is at the highest bar-end point but not yet hitting the engine kill switch at full lock left turn. Actually, the full lock left turn range was reduced because the throttle cable hits the windshield fairing. But, the full lock right turn was not reduced, only it hits the lo/hi beam switch. Also, it was needed to rotate the clutch bar so that not hitting the mirror. With that setup, the longest ride I did was 200km 2 hrs ride, but I had to refuel after 1 hr ride. Overall, riding position was almost upright, and I feel I can ride all day. No more back pain for me after riding.

Clutch action on the Donkey was a bit heavier due to the 6th gen clutch springs installed last year. Not really a problem but thought I’d try improving comfort in traffic. In another thread we’d established the 6th gen master cylinder has a smaller piston than the 5.1 gen (1/2 inch vs 14mm) so this should give me better leverage over the slave and a softer hand action. Also fitted an Oberon 38mm slave (vs 36.5mm) which should further improve the action. First step was to rebuild the 6th gen clutch master with a Tourmax kit as it was crusty! Had an old braided brake line same length and banjo angle as the VFR clutch hose so decided to fit that too. Didn’t want to dismantle the bike again so tied the new line onto the old one with some wire and pulled it through. The rebuild kit didn’t have a seal for the lever push rod thingie which had split, so I pulled the old piston seal off and reused that instead. Piston seal is slightly bigger and actually seals better. Here it is fitted and the lever cleaned/lubed up. Luckily the 5th gen lever fits on the 6th gen unit (mine came without a lever). Everything fitted together and bled with fresh brake fluid. Has solid feel but lever tied back to the bar overnight just in case there are any bubbles still trapped in there. New unit looks exactly like the old one. View of the “open” airbox and ghetto phone holder (from a bicycle!) if anyone is interested.

A minute or 2? More like 20. Longest most boring event in the world interspersed with 5 seconds of lots of running around. 😉 Not like a proper 'ard game. 😆 No pads, no helmets, just balls!

The reason I change the fuel cap is the old one is hard to open as the key is broken inside the lock The design is slightly different but fits, need to find a few matching bolts through as different looks So slow progress but still some

NFL? Are those them pussies that play some 4 seconds worth of rugby (with protective gear and helmet) and then pause for a minute or two ?

Other brands are available

That looks like a label that belongs on any coolant concentrate based primarily on ethylene glycol. Did you know that water will boil at 102C even with a decent working radiator cap that holds 1.1 Bar? That is awfully close to the fan cycling temperature, so it seems extremely likely that you could start boiling the coolant as soon as you get slowed in traffic, if you used pure water. Boiling creates steam and that blows gas through the coolant reservoir and pukes out the contents. I don't think I would ever use straight water in my bike.

If you look on the Partzilla site it does actually show which other models each part fits. In the case of the 2002 stay it is shown as fitting the 02, 03, 04 and 05. So the answer is YES!

While I agree with the comment in principle (which I would restate as the specific heat of ethylene glycol is half that of water, hence it takes less energy to raise a water-glycol mixture by a degree than pure water) there are other beneficial effects from the presence of glycol, namely it reduces the freezing point of the mixture so makes it less likely for the liquid to freeze (and expand and cause mechanical damage) while the bike is parked up, and it increases the boiling point so the cooling system can still operate at higher temperatures without spewing steam and coolant out of the breather. The mixed coolants also provide corrosion resistance. I stick to the recommended 50:50 mixture recommend by Big H. My '99 also runs happily through a New Zealand summer at around 78°C under all throttle conditions as long as there is good radiator airflow. My opinion is that the limitation of the VFR cooling system is more likely to be the rate of heat transfer from the hot surface of the radiator to the air than the rate of heat absorption from the hot engine to the coolant, hence the coolant used won't actually affect the running temperature of the bike. Using pure water will increase the heat-up time from cold, and will slow the rate of rise when the bike is stuck in traffic, but won't actually change the peak temperature that is ultimately reached. YMMV.

If I recall correctly, the connectors are different on the 06 ECM.

Download this book (see link below) as it may help with your geometry and setting sag knowledge. As for tires, I've stuck with Michelin for some time now and The Pilot Roads, versus the Pilot Powers aren't that much different except for more longevity with the Pilot Roads. My latest tire for the '01 VFR are the Michelin Power GP and they are a kin to the Pilot Roads maybe a little more sticky but I really haven't been able to put them to a real test. I will add though, the one tire I tried and really like for turn in and grip are the Pirelli Super Corsa, they are a bit pricey, maybe on par with the Michelin, if not more, but longevity are a bit less. Although, this may be more attributed to mostly track time with them. I just recently put them on my Hawk, but again, have not really had a chance to put them to the test yet there either.

I'm not being mean, but some of this may be in your head, trying to match a memory that may not be at all accurate. It happens. Brands vary. Tire models vary. Even sizes in the same model vary. Here's the same Dunlop rear in three sizes. One steers like a truck, one has less grip at lean, one is sublime. All are completely usable and feel "normal." Then there's tire pressure, surface material, temperature, and more. Maybe have someone else ride it and provided feedback, or ride another if the dealer has one? Bike geometry, which is nearly always wrong from the factory. Suspension. What you're feeling through the seat and bars and pegs. How tight you're holding on and even the stiffness in your arms will all have huge effects on how the bike "feels." Is your a$$ on the seat or is some weight on your legs? I think that you're looking for a tire solution for a tire non-problem. $.02 worth...certainly worth less. A few more fun ones: And don't even get me going about brake pads. lol It is oil...all over again.