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Help needed. Cant get oem exhaust off


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I finally got some nickel anti-seize for my exhaust components.  It's expensive, but is said to be good up to 2,400 F so should easily handle it.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77124-Nickel-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0002UENJ2

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You can also buy proper stainless steel replacement exhaust studs on eBay these days.  I've never seen stainless steel OEM-shaped long flange nuts, however.  Maybe they're out there.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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21 hours ago, Careca said:

In many cases I have used Titanium bolts instead of the standard ones. They will never rust , ever.

 

Where do you buy them? 

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18 hours ago, Duck said:

 

Where do you buy them? 


Pro-bolt.com ...explain what you want them for and they’ll sort you out

 

The UK depot is on the outskirts of Tewkesbury, 10% discount if you buy in person, they’re very pleasant people to deal with there 

 

Be very careful with stainless steel, there’s lots of different varieties and some are not suitable for exhaust manifolds 

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On 1/7/2021 at 3:33 PM, Careca said:

The Power Commander V was very easy to fit. HOWEVER , making a neat and tidy installation of it was a pig if Im honest, but things like that really bother me.

 

I took lost of bits off, routed it all the way along the left hand side and positioned the unit behind the RR but ahead of it as the RR gets hot and needs air flow to cool.

 

I cut up an old bicycle inner tube that I had , made 2 pieces and I stretched a bit of inner tube over each side , just to protect the PC and it stops it rattling. 

 

10931269_PCV1.thumb.jpg.b009218e4334c2b2d64d4a51ec98886f.jpg

 

Thats you fuel injection plug. Separate this plug and the PC plugs in between these two. Very easy although there is almost no slack in the original loom . 

 

48141076_PCV2.thumb.jpg.ba5b06229b124a0d339105584bacbc1f.jpg

 

Routing the PC cable was a pig. I undid engine bolts to allow the cable to sit behind, in a neat position thats protected and not going to melt from engine heat.

 

 

597215946_PCV3.thumb.jpg.c75c902ab150effed4831fe9f4243727.jpg

 

You can just see the PC , tucked into a little recess in the subframe with its wiring cable tied to the rear subframe. Its nicely tucked away but still easy to access should you need it . 

 

Hope that helps,

Nat

The OEM  R/R runs hot.... it may cook your PCV..

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1 hour ago, mello dude said:

The OEM  R/R runs hot.... it may cook your PCV..

I know RR's run hot. Its fine , they are far enough away from eachother.  Have a look at the picture. The RR is on the outside of the subframe  and the PCV is on the inside and set further forward , so they are not even back to back. There is a little space where the PCV slides in , almost as if it was purpose made. 

I know I would say this , but it has made it a very neat installation .

 

271668225_RRPCVII.thumb.jpg.77d801364ff53fde704f7a88f1e870e5.jpg 

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On 1/8/2021 at 12:59 PM, Careca said:

In many cases I have used Titanium bolts instead of the standard ones. They will never rust , ever.

 

I've Ti out Mr.RC45... replacing every nut and bolt with Titanium and saved about 8 lbs...  I second what Danno said... employ anti seize because titanium will gall...

 

First photo is stock RC45 parts with steel hardware... the second is my homemade modified parts with Titanium hardware...

 

RC45HRCSwingArm29.JPG

 

 

Second photo is my homemade modified parts with Titanium hardware...

RC45HRCSwingArm28.JPG

RC45HRCSwingArm30.JPG

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On 1/9/2021 at 6:14 PM, Duck said:

 

Where do you buy them? 

 

Pro-Bolt is okay, but I've bought most of my UK stuff from places like RaceBoltUK, RaceTI and Titan Classics.  The latter mainly does the special Honda fasteners in TI, and the former two mainly the standard TI fasteners.  I haven't bought anything TI for a couple of years, though, so there may be more suppliers out there now.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH   

 

 

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