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Gen5 - Did my fuel pump just die?


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25 minutes ago, Grum said:

O.K so are you following where we are at on the drawing I posted for you?

You need to now go to the MAIN Fuse B 30 and measure the Voltage on BOTH of its test points. Do you see 12v on Both Test Points?

If I'm getting this properly, we're tracking the main ECM power line (thick red) around the outside to make sure power is getting there.  So we've checked the Main B 20 (faulty @ zero volts?) and have moved left to the Main B 30 to see if the problem lies further down the line?  Now I'm looking for a 30A fuse in the same box as the Main B 20 (there is no 30A fuse in that box on my bike)?  Am I on the close to being on the same page?

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Do not--I repeat--DO NOT--ask Grum for help if you don't have a multimeter handy!    OK, maaaaybe a tire change, but still.

Great stuff yegvfrguy. Nothing like the sound of a VFR running again along with the joyous Wooopeee roar of accomplishment from its owner.......music to my ears. Cheers.   P.S. Enjoy

Surely that is a BORG multimeter, not a Fluke!

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30 minutes ago, yegvfrguy said:

If I'm getting this properly, we're tracking the main ECM power line (thick red) around the outside to make sure power is getting there.  So we've checked the Main B 20 (faulty @ zero volts?) and have moved left to the Main B 30 to see if the problem lies further down the line?  Now I'm looking for a 30A fuse in the same box as the Main B 20 (there is no 30A fuse in that box on my bike)?  Am I on the close to being on the same page?

Mate. Can we move a little quicker, I'm here waiting and at this rate its going to take a while!

 

Yes we are following the Power Supply for the ECM. This power ALSO supplies your HEADLIGHTS.

So turn ON your Ignition and confirm your headlights are working or not.

 

If your Headlights are Not working then suspect you have a Blown Main Fuse B 30amp. located near your Starter Relay (Not in your Starter Relay - That is Main Fuse A 30amp). Refer to the item location drawing I posted for you!

All fuses in your fuse box are considered Sub Fuses.

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25 minutes ago, Grum said:

Mate. Can we move a little quicker, I'm here waiting and at this rate its going to take a while!

 

Yes we are following the Power Supply for the ECM. This power ALSO supplies your HEADLIGHTS.

So turn ON your Ignition and confirm your headlights are working or not.

If your Headlight are Not working then suspect you have a Blown Main Fuse B 30amp. located near your Starter Relay (Not in your Starter Relay - That is Main Fuse A 30amp). Refer to the item location drawing I posted for you!

All fuses in your fuse box are considered Sub Fuses.

I'm sorry man... I obviously appreciate the help very much, however It's 12:30am here now... I have to get to bed.  I don't mean to be rude or keep you waiting.

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2 minutes ago, yegvfrguy said:

I'm sorry man... I obviously appreciate the help very much, however It's 12:30am here now... I have to get to bed.  I don't mean to be rude or keep you waiting.

Ok mate I understand. Follow up on my previous post tomorrow. Are you able to just confirm your headlight situation?

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6 minutes ago, Grum said:

Ok mate I understand. Follow up on my previous post tomorrow. Are you able to just confirm you headlight situation.

Thanks man.  Appreciate your patience.  Turned the ignition on and no headlights.  Just dashboard lit up.

 

I'll check in with you tomorrow.  Thanks again!

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12 hours ago, yegvfrguy said:

Sorry... Forgot to mention they were still zero volts both sides.

Use test-lead with alligator-clips to keep black/earth probe of meter connected to battery negative terminal at all times. Then use red/power probe of meter to test various points of harness-circuit. It sometimes requires 3 hands or more, so clamping black probe to battery makes it easier.

 

On diagram, both Fuse-A and Fuse-B are directly connected to battery's +terminal. That means inlet of both Fuse-A and Fuse-B should have +12v full-time, key ON or OFF.  If not, you've got issue with power-wires feeding those fuses. Measuring outlet of Fuse-A and Fuse-B should also have +12v full-time as well, unless one of them is blown.


uc?export=download&id=1lEWyK2nu2O8K8-ZBz
 

What we're doing is following flow-path of power to see if it cuts off somewhere. It's like river's flow, there's start (battery) and it flows to various branches downstream. Where flow stops, could be problem point. So from your measurements, there shouldn't be power anywhere, not to clocks, not to marker-lights, nothing, kaput! Obviously,  things are lighting up, so measurements are incorrect.

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Ladies and gentlemen;  Allow me to introduce you to my Main Fuse B 30A:  I think the culprit has been identified.  Some A-hole put a 20A in there.... How does that work even for a moment, let alone the 7 years I've owned the bike? 

DSC_0141.thumb.JPG.9185c951547f6a9195b6248948fc7004.JPG

DSC_0142.JPG

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54 minutes ago, yegvfrguy said:

Ladies and gentlemen;  Allow me to introduce you to my Main Fuse B 30A:  I think the culprit has been identified.  Some A-hole put a 20A in there.... How does that work even for a moment, let alone the 7 years I've owned the bike? 

DSC_0141.thumb.JPG.9185c951547f6a9195b6248948fc7004.JPG

DSC_0142.JPG

 

Hooray at last, glad you were able locate the Main Fuse!

Only a 20amp = Wrong value fitted! Is the fuse actually blown or just the burnt contact?

A 20amp fuse may work but would be marginal. I'm more concerned about the burnt leg of the fuse.

You will need to make sure the wiring isn't burnt and connections are good, replace it with a proper 30amp. see if your bike fires up.

Make sure you measure your charging voltage at the battery you should measure 13.5 to 14.5v  with engine running.

Good Luck.

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11 minutes ago, Grum said:

 

Hooray at last, glad you were able to find it.

Think your issue is that its NOT a 30amp Fuse!!! Only a 20amp = Wrong value fitted!

You will need to make sure the wiring isn't burnt and connections are good, replace it with a proper 30amp. see if your bike fires up.

Make sure you measure your charging voltage at the battery you should measure 13.5 to 14.5v  with engine running.

Good Luck.

I'd love to meet the nimrod who installed that.... Jeezus!  And how the hell does a 20A last for 7yrs?  I've never had any issues like this until now...

 

Anyhoo, replaced with proper fuse and bike is running.  Charging voltage at 14.18v. 

 

Grum, once again you've gotten me up and running.  I cannot thank you enough!  And thanks Danno for your input as well!

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, yegvfrguy said:

I'd love to meet the nimrod who installed that.... Jeezus!  And how the hell does a 20A last for 7yrs?  I've never had any issues like this until now...

 

Anyhoo, replaced with proper fuse and bike is running.  Charging voltage at 14.18v. 

 

Grum, once again you've gotten me up and running.  I cannot thank you enough!  And thanks Danno for your input as well!

 

Great stuff yegvfrguy.

Nothing like the sound of a VFR running again along with the joyous Wooopeee roar of accomplishment from its owner.......music to my ears.:cheerleader::wheel:

Cheers.:beer:

 

P.S. Enjoy and get to know your new found friend..........................................................................................THE MUTLIMETER!! Ha Ha!

 

Futile.jpg

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Hi guys, I am brand new here, just wanted to say thanks for posting this. I just bought a 2003 VFR on the weekend, owner was very ill, wanted to clear out everything. Took a chance on this one, it wasn’t running, didn’t even have a battery in it to check the mileage... but it looked spectacular and I trusted him. He said the fuel pump was shot...  Bought it, tinkered a bit, got a battery, and read your post while planning next steps. Turned out to be the same problem... burnt out 30A fuse holder, tested it and it fired up second time... very happy I didn’t pull the tank out and the pump and waste a lot of time and money. You guys rock! 
thanks again. 
maybe see you on the road one of these days...

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23 minutes ago, Veefour9 said:

Hi guys, I am brand new here, just wanted to say thanks for posting this. I just bought a 2003 VFR on the weekend, owner was very ill, wanted to clear out everything. Took a chance on this one, it wasn’t running, didn’t even have a battery in it to check the mileage... but it looked spectacular and I trusted him. He said the fuel pump was shot...  Bought it, tinkered a bit, got a battery, and read your post while planning next steps. Turned out to be the same problem... burnt out 30A fuse holder, tested it and it fired up second time... very happy I didn’t pull the tank out and the pump and waste a lot of time and money. You guys rock! 
thanks again. 
maybe see you on the road one of these days...

Hahaha!!!  Brilliant timing, dude!  The community here is most excellent.  I was pretty much thinking exactly what you were;  swap in a new pump and go.  I never really thought about the power chain that has to be intact before the fuel pump even comes into the equation.  So not only is my bike running again, I have learned something and formed a couple new neural pathways!  This place is good for the bike AND the brain 🙂

 

Enjoy that VFR!

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1 hour ago, Grum said:

 

Great stuff yegvfrguy.

Nothing like the sound of a VFR running again along with the joyous Wooopeee roar of accomplishment from its owner.......music to my ears.:cheerleader::wheel:

Cheers.:beer:

 

P.S. Enjoy and get to know your new found friend..........................................................................................THE MUTLIMETER!! Ha Ha!

 

Futile.jpg

Surely that is a BORG multimeter, not a Fluke!

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11 hours ago, DannoXYZ said:

Use test-lead with alligator-clips to keep black/earth probe of meter connected to battery negative terminal at all times. Then use red/power probe of meter to test various points of harness-circuit. It sometimes requires 3 hands or more, so clamping black probe to battery makes it easier.

 

On diagram, both Fuse-A and Fuse-B are directly connected to battery's +terminal. That means inlet of both Fuse-A and Fuse-B should have +12v full-time, key ON or OFF.  If not, you've got issue with power-wires feeding those fuses. Measuring outlet of Fuse-A and Fuse-B should also have +12v full-time as well, unless one of them is blown.


uc?export=download&id=1lEWyK2nu2O8K8-ZBz
 

What we're doing is following flow-path of power to see if it cuts off somewhere. It's like river's flow, there's start (battery) and it flows to various branches downstream. Where flow stops, could be problem point. So from your measurements, there shouldn't be power anywhere, not to clocks, not to marker-lights, nothing, kaput! Obviously,  things are lighting up, so measurements are incorrect.

I am going to invest in a better multimeter. The leads on mine are short and hardwired.  That neg clamp sounds divine....  Thanks for your input on this thread.  Definitely helped open my mind a bit in terms of all the potential underlying (and cheaper to fix!) issues and thinking about the electrical chain that needed to be intact to make the actual pump work.  My brain is just a little bit bigger after all this!  Cheers!

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This is great, it's like a 1970's disaster movie where a pilot on the ground is talking on the radio to a flight attendant who has to land a damaged Boeing 747 at night on a short runway because the pilots are both dead.  

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Some serious attention required on that lot, what a bloody mess.  Either a proper wire repair or new wire bypass, needs to be sorted ASAP.! Surely that's not your bike is it Kiwi.....?

Good luck with the repairs.

 

 

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54 minutes ago, Kiwiwannafly said:

Check out the yellow crimp fitted toasted 'main fuse' - like hard wired non- existent. Clean up on wiring isle 5....

 

Some fine quality crapmenship going on! (Holy xxxx!) 

 

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6 hours ago, Grum said:

Some serious attention required on that lot, what a bloody mess.  Either propper wire repair or new wire bypass, needs to be sorted ASAP.! Surely that's not your bike is it Kiwi.....?

Good luck with the repairs.

Fraid so Aussie man. My bikes electrons must be on steroids to smash thru corrosion and jump large gaps. Astounds me that it was running pretty sweetly up till now.

And for your visual pleasure...a previous view of the back of the instrumets

IMG-20201110-WA0001.jpeg

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8 minutes ago, Kiwiwannafly said:

Fraid so Aussie man. My bikes electrons must be on steroids to smash thru corrosion and jump large gaps. Astounds me that it was running pretty sweetly up till now.

And for your visual pleasure...a previous view of the back of the instrumets

IMG-20201110-WA0001.jpeg

Well I guess you're showing us all this stuff because you didn't do it! That's horrible pcb track repair. Best ya tidy this up as well! Any other good wiring mods you've found on the bike???.

Electrical reliability is sitting on a knife edge with your bike! 

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