yegvfrguy

I am going to invest in a better multimeter. The leads on mine are short and hardwired. That neg clamp sounds divine.... Thanks for your input on this thread. Definitely helped open my mind a bit in terms of all the potential underlying (and cheaper to fix!) issues and thinking about the electrical chain that needed to be intact to make the actual pump work. My brain is just a little bit bigger after all this! Cheers!

Hahaha!!! Brilliant timing, dude! The community here is most excellent. I was pretty much thinking exactly what you were; swap in a new pump and go. I never really thought about the power chain that has to be intact before the fuel pump even comes into the equation. So not only is my bike running again, I have learned something and formed a couple new neural pathways! This place is good for the bike AND the brain 🙂 Enjoy that VFR!

Hi yegvfrguy, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I'd love to meet the nimrod who installed that.... Jeezus! And how the hell does a 20A last for 7yrs? I've never had any issues like this until now... Anyhoo, replaced with proper fuse and bike is running. Charging voltage at 14.18v. Grum, once again you've gotten me up and running. I cannot thank you enough! And thanks Danno for your input as well! MOV_0143.mp4

Ladies and gentlemen; Allow me to introduce you to my Main Fuse B 30A: I think the culprit has been identified. Some A-hole put a 20A in there.... How does that work even for a moment, let alone the 7 years I've owned the bike?

Thanks man. Appreciate your patience. Turned the ignition on and no headlights. Just dashboard lit up. I'll check in with you tomorrow. Thanks again!

I'm sorry man... I obviously appreciate the help very much, however It's 12:30am here now... I have to get to bed. I don't mean to be rude or keep you waiting.

If I'm getting this properly, we're tracking the main ECM power line (thick red) around the outside to make sure power is getting there. So we've checked the Main B 20 (faulty @ zero volts?) and have moved left to the Main B 30 to see if the problem lies further down the line? Now I'm looking for a 30A fuse in the same box as the Main B 20 (there is no 30A fuse in that box on my bike)? Am I on the close to being on the same page?

Sorry... Forgot to mention they were still zero volts both sides.

12.60v @ the battery

Performed the test as you described (black to neg battery/red to fuse). Came up with a zero volt reading on both sides of the fuse. Having said that, my multimeter is all over the place when the leads aren't touching anything (positive numbers, negative numbers) and then they level off at zero when I attach the leads. Does that seem right? Are those random readings normal (it's an auto-ranging device)? It's digital and I didn't drop a lot of coin on it....

Sir, yes sir! Multimeter present and accounted for, sir! 😉 So, pulled apart the front cowl and unless I'm misreading the manual, this is the ignition switch connector (3P natural connector). It traces back to the ignition switch, so... I guess it's a 3 wire....

Wow. Love this community. Thanks for the leg work. Gotta buy one first, but I'll check it out when I do!

Dude, you are absolutely correct. I'm not an accomplished DIY/diagnostic guy, so my brain works in very simple terms with this kind of stuff, which is why I come here... lol Fortunately, it would appear that Grum is going to help me out with the technical stuff and attempt to lead me down the golden path. I'm realizing (logically) from his suggestions how many little things can be a possible cause by just not allowing the fuel pump to engage rather than it being the pump itself. I'm looking forward to the challenge of tracking it down!