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Hello,

 

Firstly I'm new here I currently have a 98 Gen 5 on 56k miles that hasn't had the R/R mod done with the VFRness and Rick's rectifier.

I want to do this mod as I intend to keep the bike but I can't seem to contact the wire my bike page to buy all the relevant equipment, I have tried the contact on the website but heard nothing is he still doing the kits for the Gen 5?

All I have read seem to point to this being the gear to have to bullet proof the bike and I've just burnt out a R/R and had to replace with an Electrex World R/R so i'd like to do this ASAP.

 

Does anyone have alternative contact details if he is still doing the kits.

 

Thanks

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Consider going to

www.roadstercycle.com

 

IMHO - There was a time when the VFRness was the thing to have, but if you go with current art of R/R replacement, it isnt needed anymore. 

 

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9 hours ago, mello dude said:

Consider going to

www.roadstercycle.com

 

IMHO - There was a time when the VFRness was the thing to have, but if you go with current art of R/R replacement, it isnt needed anymore. 

 

 

What he said.  Get a new R/R from Roadster!

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9 hours ago, mello dude said:

Consider going to

www.roadstercycle.com

 

IMHO - There was a time when the VFRness was the thing to have, but if you go with current art of R/R replacement, it isnt needed anymore. 

 

100% agree!

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No offence to the WireMyBike guy, because he has spent a lot of time supporting the VFR community, but the VFRness is no longer needed as upgrading your R/R and directly wiring it to the battery seems to be a much better solution. Using the SH847 also has benefits for stator life, too.

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Welcome aboard, seems to be a lot of new guys joining lately, reg/rec seems to be the achilles heel of the vfr.

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What about checking and/or replacing the stator. Should one not do that occasionally?

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On 5/16/2019 at 7:33 PM, thtanner said:

No offence to the WireMyBike guy, because he has spent a lot of time supporting the VFR community, but the VFRness is no longer needed as upgrading your R/R and directly wiring it to the battery seems to be a much better solution. Using the SH847 also has benefits for stator life, too.

I think we owe "Tightwad" a big thanks and kudos for starting us all down the journey for thinking about upgrades for the poor Honda charging system.  I did use a VFRness for a couple years. 

So to Tightwad --- Thank you for getting us all on the path that we can do much better. 

9 hours ago, HughJebolzak said:

What about checking and/or replacing the stator. Should one not do that occasionally?

The VFR charging system of death has been going on for a decade or two, and I would sit and read all the try this and try that posts. Just seemed guys were suggesting a dart board. 

Then on a nite of a beer buzz, I got an OCD fit and screw it. As a dumazz geek foole of many car/bike wrenching mods and fix it of multi-decades, I decided to consolidate and write a straight up easy test it procedure and somehow it got called "The Drill" 

Its probly not 100%, but its not bad.....

 

So yes the stator is part of testing for charging system health... but short and sweet it goes --- battery good? ---- connectors?--- stator test? ---- R/R test?

As below a link .... the number of guys who has used it has got to be in the hundreds... :beer:

 

 

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9 hours ago, HughJebolzak said:

What about checking and/or replacing the stator. Should one not do that occasionally?

 Yes the stator is the main culprit. When it starts to go it puts too much current through the R/R causing it to fail, and then cook the wiring, and the battery. It's the nature of the design that our stators live a hard life of asymmetrical vibes, and high temps. The wiring breaks down eventually especially for those of us that live in high ambient temps, and enjoy high revs.

 

 My commuter/touring bike has been gradually losing voltage over the last few months at high RPM. It's about time to pull that left cover off, and see how baked that poor thing is before shit goes sideways.

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19 hours ago, MBrane said:

Yes the stator is the main culprit. When it starts to go it puts too much current through the R/R…

Assumes facts not in evidence. Could you explain how a faulty stator winding (shorted or open) can out put more energy than a healthy one?

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