Rogue_Biker Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I'm not sure if this is a problem or not and it's kind of hard to explain but I will give it a go. I have an '07 VFR800 with just under 41k miles. I had the valves inspected way back at 18k miles. I use the bike for mostly commuting with the occasional sport ride and maybe once or twice a year long distance ride. When commuting, I rarely go over the V-TEC threshold of 6,500 RPM just to stay within reasonable urban speeds. So my daily commute is a lot of acceleration to 5th gear at 6,500 RPM shift points, then back down to a stop, repeat. I will usually short shift it at 4th gear as there is no need to shift at 6,500RPM in 5th gear to stay near legal speeds. Ok here's what I've noticed in the last 10k miles or so: After an extended period of repeated riding as I described above, I noticed the engine would feel a bit more course at part throttle between 6,500 RPM and 7,000 RPM. At wider throttle openings, the transition to VTEC happens quicker so I don't spend much time in the VTEC threshold (6.5k RPM-7k RPM). I even started noticing a buzzing sound somewhere right when the VTEC engages. This buzzing sound goes away after 7k RPM. However, when I go out and run the engine hard during an extended sport ride or a sport tour, that initial coarseness at the threshold as well as the buzzing sound goes away. For example, I recently went to AZ on a multi-day tour and I was able to run the engine hard for extended periods above VTEC at bigger throttle openings, and trips to redline. After returning from that trip, the engine felt a lot smoother and the buzzing at the threshold disappeared. Now it's nearly turbine-smooth. I just cleaned the air cleaner (because I rode it in AZ through lots of wind and sand) and it's running even smoother now. Am I going crazy with this? Anybody else noticed something similar with their 6th Gen? Any insights? Is something getting clogged up in the oil passageway or spark plugs from extended periods of stop and go below VTEC? The bike is in very good shape and runs hard and fast. Oil and filter is changed on schedule since new, and it runs on Mobil 1 Synthetic or Castrol Synthetic 10W40. Engine is NOT burning any oil. Coolant level is normal. The K&N air filter is clean. Spark plugs replaced less than 10k miles ago. I just checked the stator connection and they are clean with no signs of overheating. Engine is not making any weird noises at idle or WOT. There is a slight ticking sound when cold but goes away once warm. Starts right up every time and idles smooth at 1,200 RPM by the book. I'm getting ready to do a second valve check and starter valve sync. Maybe I just have to try harder to run my VFR800 harder regularly instead of putt-putting around town. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dgordon Posted June 6, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted June 6, 2016 Rogue, have the same exact model and wanted to first congratulate you on your good taste. Secondly, I can't offer up much on this one - I usually always hit vtec when I ride but I'm in the country so can do so. I also put a PCV on mine, HUGE difference I found in the transition period. A lot of people seem to have really varied experiences with the transition = some harsh and some not. Look forward to some of the responses on this one. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gelthos Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 I second your taste, mine is a 07 RWB I have found that my transition if gently rolled into is a bit harsh, however the harder I hit it the smoother it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dustin Posted June 7, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted June 7, 2016 I second your taste, mine is a 07 RWB I have found that my transition if gently rolled into is a bit harsh, however the harder I hit it the smoother it is. This is my experience as well. At small throttle openings, you can also hear the 'click' of the solenoid that engages the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue_Biker Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 14 hours ago, Gelthos said: I second your taste, mine is a 07 RWB I have found that my transition if gently rolled into is a bit harsh, however the harder I hit it the smoother it is. Yup it is more course when I roll it on gently also. But after extended periods of lolly-lagging around town (I’m talking weeks and even months here), that coarseness is accompanied by a buzzing sound. Of course now that’s all gone because I started complaining about it! LOL! Dgordon, my RWB also has a Power Commander V, which I recently switched over about two months ago. Prior to that I had a PCIII. And as I was telling Duc2V4, after I switched to the PCV, I noticed additional smoothness at part throttle and throttle opening from closed at lower speeds. In addition, I picked up 2 mpg in fuel efficiency in both city and highway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dgordon Posted June 7, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted June 7, 2016 Rogue, that's awesome! The PC really makes the transition seamless. Once installed, vtec is now like a sail filling with wind, as opposed to an unpredictable affair. I'm glad to hear your issue ran and hid. :-) Once you call it out they do that you know. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted June 8, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted June 8, 2016 Hi Rogue_Biker. Can't say I ever had those issues with my RWB. I'm curious to know, are the oils you've used specifically Motorcycle Oils?? Also wonder if you are starting to get a bit of CCT noise, be it the CCT or some chain chatter, they can start to give some issues around your mileage? Enjoy your RWB, just loved mine. Cheers. Grum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue_Biker Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Grum, the Mobil 1 and the Castrol I've used have always been motorcycle specific. I always bought them from motorcycle chain stores like Cycle Gear (popular here in the US). I am a bit concerned about my CCT. There is some very minor clatter at idle when cold, which goes away when the engine warms up. Again, I tried to get another member to listen to it but it wouldn't do it whenever I started the bike! LOL! Haha! I also have a much newer CBR600RR, and this bike has a similar minor valve clatter when cold that goes away when up to temperature. It's probably just my anal-retentive imagination that I'm hearing things. When I had my Buell 1125R, I swore up and down I could hear strange noises that would "go away" later. I also swore that bike would give up the ghost some day because of what I heard and read online as well as other owner's experiences. But that bike never did breakdown either! This weekend, I'll start my VFR800 when cold without my hearing protection and give it a good listen. We'll see if there is anything weird that may crop up. I've read about the stator giving up around 40k miles also. I checked the connections to the stator a few weeks ago and they are clean with absolutely no discoloring. My bike rarely ever runs above 200 degrees F because there is usually sufficient airflow to keep it cool even during my daily commute. And since I keep changing the oil/filter by the book, actually sooner than 7,500 mile recommended interval, the bike never has "stale" oil. I also have changed the coolant every 2 years. So I'm hoping this has kept the internals of the motor healthy enough to not get too stressed, which might cause things to fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gswanson Posted June 8, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted June 8, 2016 Think maybe there could have been some carbon build-up on the v-tech activated valves from commuting that was causing the roughness/noise that got "blown off" during your extended above 7000RPM jaunts on your recent trip? My 07 is approaching 40k miles and I am starting to hear some CCT noise also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Its a VFR, stop worrying so much. 40,000 miles is nothing, I am really surprised that you have't had to change the CCT's yet. I had to change mine out at 30k and again at 60k. You did the valve inspection at 18k? Good for you, you are a better owner than I lol, were any out of spec? As far as wondering if its the CCT, don't worry, if it is the CCT and you don't know it yet, you will soon enough, as its only going to get louder and louder. Eventually it will get to a point where it sounds like the engine is going to come apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue_Biker Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 6 hours ago, CandyRedRC46 said: You did the valve inspection at 18k? Good for you, you are a better owner than I lol, were any out of spec? As far as wondering if its the CCT, don't worry, if it is the CCT and you don't know it yet, you will soon enough, as its only going to get louder and louder. Eventually it will get to a point where it sounds like the engine is going to come apart. The 18k inspection, was done by a local garage and I don't really remember if they did ANY adjustments. However, this next one I plan to do within the month will be done by me. So I will definitely report my findings. So I started her up after work after the bike sat for nearly 10 hours with an outside ambient temperature of 78 F. No clatter. There was an occasional tick somewhere. But once up to temperature that intermittent cold ticking was gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 11 hours ago, Rogue_Biker said: The 18k inspection, was done by a local garage and I don't really remember if they did ANY adjustments. However, this next one I plan to do within the month will be done by me. So I will definitely report my findings. So I started her up after work after the bike sat for nearly 10 hours with an outside ambient temperature of 78 F. No clatter. There was an occasional tick somewhere. But once up to temperature that intermittent cold ticking was gone. That usually how CCT failures go. Not all at once, but a very gradual process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sirimiri Posted June 12, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2016 On 6/8/2016 at 1:26 PM, CandyRedRC46 said: Its a VFR, stop worrying so much. 40,000 miles is nothing... I rode my 2006 VFR for 70k+ miles around Southern California. I didn't really baby my VFR, changing the oil and consumables "when it was necessary" e.g. sometimes 8k for oil and utterly worn pads or sloppy chain and sprockets. Aside from stuck thermostat(s), replacing the cam chain tensioners front and back at least once, and giving up on an electrical short which kept eating fuses unless I unplugged the lower rear brake bulb, the bike just ran like an appliance. But one with grunt and soul :) I think my last valve adjustment was at 35k miles or so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue_Biker Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 So I went back and thoroughly examined the detail receipt from my valve adjustment, which was actually done at 16k miles (not 18k...not that 2k miles matter). I compared it to Honda specs, and re-did the shim calculation to extrapolate exactly where the service garage put my valve clearances back then. Here are my findings: 18k miles on 2007 VFR800 - valve clearances were all within the specified range per the Service Manual. They were below the middle specs but well above the low end. If the mechanic working on my bike was telling me the truth and wrote the truth down on paper, I used this data and re-did his calculation and it appears he put the valve clearances back to smack dab in the upper middle of the range. My analysis giving the mechanic the benefit of the doubt, since the nature of the VTEC valve inspection requires nearly the same effort just to check the valve clearances as it does to actually change the shims, AND the mechanic's calculations on paper appears to show me a conclusion that he would have put out a lot of brain power just to make up shim numbers and clearance numbers, in addition to my bike running like a top right now at 41.6k miles, I would have to conclude that the mechanic really did the check and the adjustment on my bike. Why did he adjust them even though they were within spec? Because the effort to change the shims are nearly the same just to check the clearances. If I were doing the job, I would go ahead and re-shim it to the middle or upper middle of the spec. In other words, there's little point in taking a short cut if you're going to measure the valve lash on the VTEC. You're going to be removing and installing camshafts whether or no you are re-shimming. Makes me feel better about the whole thing now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Who did your valve check first time around? Remember what you paid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zRoYz Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Firstly you answered your own question when you expressed everything fine when you give your bike a good thrashing & everything then seems normal. To much putting around commuting under vtec is building up carbon deposits, ride the thing more in vtec even if you stay lower gears in built up areas. More motors have problems because people hardly rev them so bores glaze & carbon builds up. Don't worry about cam chain noise at idle, you will get some clatter even with brand new adjusters at idle, the clutch will also make noise. My vtec has traveled 100000kms & just did valve inspection only exhaust valves were out, the inlet valves were perfect, I wouldn't have even bothered but just felt the need while had bike apart doing other stuff. Also I thrash my bike mercilessly as really never out of vtec due it is my weekend fun I don't commute on it at all, so that is 100000kms of high rpm low gears most of the time in the twisties. My advise is do a cheap tune up go out & thrash your bike for a whole day, it will thank you for it :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue_Biker Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 On Tuesday, June 21, 2016 at 10:51 PM, wgregt said: Who did your valve check first time around? Remember what you paid? Greg, Mach 1 Motorsports in Costa Mesa did the valve inspection. Paid $700 but that included Starter Valve synchronization & coolant flush. This was done 7 years ago though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue_Biker Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 zRoyz, thanks. I've been trying to do that during my daily commute now. Plus, I really need to take the VFR outside of city limits more on weekends. She's been jus commuting for over a year now with just the occasional long distance ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1ex Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 On 07.06.2016 at 3:36 AM, Rogue_Biker said: Ok here's what I've noticed in the last 10k miles or so: After an extended period of repeated riding as I described above, I noticed the engine would feel a bit more course at part throttle between 6,500 RPM and 7,000 RPM. At wider throttle openings, the transition to VTEC happens quicker so I don't spend much time in the VTEC threshold (6.5k RPM-7k RPM). I even started noticing a buzzing sound somewhere right when the VTEC engages. This buzzing sound goes away after 7k RPM. However, when I go out and run the engine hard during an extended sport ride or a sport tour, that initial coarseness at the threshold as well as the buzzing sound goes away. For example, I recently went to AZ on a multi-day tour and I was able to run the engine hard for extended periods above VTEC at bigger throttle openings, and trips to redline. After returning from that trip, the engine felt a lot smoother and the buzzing at the threshold disappeared. Now it's nearly turbine-smooth. I just cleaned the air cleaner (because I rode it in AZ through lots of wind and sand) and it's running even smoother now. Am I going crazy with this? Anybody else noticed something similar with their 6th Gen? Any insights? Is something getting clogged up in the oil passageway or spark plugs from extended periods of stop and go below VTEC? I have exactly the same behavior of my 6th gen. After few minutes riding in "sport" mode (7-10k rpm) the engine will work very smoother (my riding style is 80-90% of time below VTEC). I think this is probably the spark plugs are telling us that their working range is slightly higher than the low and medium engine speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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