makenzie71 Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Alright I'm fitting a 1998 VFR800 lump in my mini buggy and have a grasp of most of it. You can see the build here: http://buggynews.com/honda-vfr800-roketa-gk13-engine-swap-finally-t46332.html I got three bridges to cross here: First, will there be any issues if I just unplug, and leave unplugged, the left hand control switch? I will be wiring lights, signals, and horn into my dash on a separate circuit. Second...clutch switch and kickstand switches. Are these open to run or close to run? I want to ignore the clutch switch all together. If I can I would like to do the same with the kickstand switch. Can they be bypassed by wiring open or closed? Third...and I guess it's more of a set of questions...what are the wire colors for the start relay and kill switch? I've lost this switch and need to just bypass it. Start/kill functions will be operated by the key switch on the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Can't answer those questions, but you're going to have to rig a cable for your cold start/fuel enrichment which is on the left switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Okay I got the start/kill circuits sorted out. Can't answer those questions, but you're going to have to rig a cable for your cold start/fuel enrichment which is on the left switch. Possibly. How does it work with the VFR? I know with my other bikes (like my TL1000) it's not really a choke or an enricher...it just cranks the idle up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rovari Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 I think I can help here... So for the Kickstand the circuit is closed/completed when the stand is down. You can leave the 2 wire green connector disconnected..no mods. The clutch switch is the same. When applied it completes/ closes the circuit so it too can be disconnected if desired (I'm not sure what this switch does?) For the left hand switch there should be no impact to disconnect and cap off these wires. As per TN Rabbit you will need the throttle idle cable.The ignition switch will be easy to determine. With a volt meter or test light you can identify the hot 12v (feed) and then connect as needed. There is a manual available in the download section at the top of the page. Refer to section 19 page 22 for ignition wire colors. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted October 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 14, 2014 Okay I got the start/kill circuits sorted out. Can't answer those questions, but you're going to have to rig a cable for your cold start/fuel enrichment which is on the left switch. Possibly. How does it work with the VFR? I know with my other bikes (like my TL1000) it's not really a choke or an enricher...it just cranks the idle up. There is a cable operated by a friction controlled lever on the left hand controls. This pulls on the starter valve plate on the throttle body assembly to open the four starter valves together for cold starts. The idle adjuster screw pushes into the same plate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 I can make something work with the cold start. I will disconnect the stand switch. I believe I will close the circuit for the clutch lever. This will let me start in gear...it might help if she dies in gear on a slope or something and I can't rock it off to put it in neutral. NEW PROBLEM No fuel pump. I have it connected but not running. I have the engine in neutral, ignition is on, run circuit is connected...can't think of anything else that should be required for the pump to kick on in neutral. What about the tip sensor? How can I bypass it? Right now my wiring harness is just a haphazard mess and laying around so it might be the issue.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 nope...was tip sensor...I didn't even have it plugged in. Tip sensor installed and I'm getting backfires, which is encouraging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 Okay new issue: I get a couple sparks right at the beginning of cranking, and one right at the end. Ignition is being cut out. I believe it's because I do not have an ignition switch. Does anyone have a 5th gen ignition switch laying around and a multimeter? I need to know the measured resistance, if any, so I can go get a resistor to make this work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted October 15, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 15, 2014 i can tell you right now.. its NOT the ignition switch making this problem all it does is connect 3 wires. i recommend downloading the manual from the " downloads" above,, as it has ALL of the wiring diagrams laid out clearly for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 You can download the wiring diagram here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 I have the diagram. Alright if it is not the switch than I have an issue elsewhere: Right now I get spark right as soon as I push the button, but then it cuts out. Sometimes I get a spark right at the end as soon as I let off the button. What can cause this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 No suggestions? Today I tried disconnecting the kick stand switch. With the switch disconnected I get a continuous arc as soon as I start cranking. With the switch connected I go back to the previous state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted October 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 16, 2014 did you down load the manual?? its has a step by step guide in it .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Yeah I have the manual. You might have to point out the part where it walks me through diagnosing "awesome spark as soon as you start cranking, but it immediately goes to no spark"...or the section that covers "constant arc and kick stand switch removed". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted October 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 16, 2014 what are you refering to with "constant arc" ? and this may sound silly.. but did you ground the green wire to the motor?? you downloaded the manual.. you can see in the diagrams weather or not the wires should be connected or open when bypassing a switch. . and then there is this great part in there called " trouble shooting" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 By "constant arc" I mean there is a constant flow of current from the electrode to ground. It's constant. Meaning it does not stop. It just keeps going. And it stays that way until I disconnect the ignition switch. Which green wire? There's numerous green wires. I don't believe I have any cables/wires grounded that were not grounded from the factory. I can see which wires are suppose to contacted and open on the diagram. That's how I have gotten this far. I just checked the troubleshooting section again and am almost 100% certain there is not an area that addresses what could be at fault if you ever see an unending flow current through the spark plugs. I also have not found that section that discusses there being ignition the instant you start cranking but then completely goes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted October 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 16, 2014 no one uses "constant arc "outside of welding...at least not where i come from.. aha, i reread your posts about the spark plug ,,, got it.. you put a motor into a dune buggy meaning the harness was removed.. all the green wires lead to the frame (sooner or later).. you need to ground the green wire to the motor or things are going to get wacky somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Isn't there a pink wire in the starter switch wiring that has to be connected for the computer to work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 I do not have a pink wire in any of my switch assemblies. I will double check all my grounds later today. I did have an issue with my my motor not being grounded very well to the frame of the buggy so I added a cable and that seemed to correct the problem. Possibly there's more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenzie71 Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 Okay it was a ground issue. Finally got everything grounded and I'm getting spark. Still not running, but at least sparking. Should the coils be getting hot to the touch? Mine are getting pretty warm while cranking trying to get the thing to fire up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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