makenzie71

Located in Lubbock, TX. I rode the bike before breaking it all down and everything was in working order but strongly recommend full service on all parts before using them. Will sell the entire lot for $300+shipping. Forks. Straight and work properly, they're old and have some pitting and one fingernail size section of the chrome has peeled above the travel range. Will need new seals and oil. Includes lower triple, if I can find the top triple that'll go too. $100+shipping. Bars and masters. Straight. Worked well. Strongly recommend rebuilding both masters and calipers before using. $100+shipping. Front wheel and rotors. Rotors in excellent shape, no bends, minimal rock chips...a really decent example for a 30 year old wheel. Tire is shot and will not be included. $250+shipping. Swingarm is straight, bearings are good, will need a thorough scrubbing. Shock and links shown will be included. $150+shipping.

JTR1346 is a 43t 525 sprocket that fits the RC36/46 750/800.

It's not a VFR up front...it's a VT750. This is just my curiosity asking, but why would you carve a whole sprocket for the RC30 arm from a blank instead of using a sprocket made for the RC30 arm? In my case, for example, since no one seems to make a 525 sprocket for the VFR and no one seems to make a 530 sprocket for the VT750, well I'm just going to have a cheap $20 steel VFR sprocket milled down to 525 dimensions. It's just cutting 1/16" off both faces and only about 3/4" from the circumference. It'll be 30 minutes of millwork.

My preference is steel...but the bike weighs less and has considerably less power than the VFR, I highly doubt aluminum will really be a problem, I just don't like the idea of having to have one custom made.

Okay so I'm running an RC31 arm with an RC36 carrier/spindle assembly all on a VT750. The VT750 seems to only have 525 availability up front and the VFR only seems to have 530 availability in the back...has anyone managed to find a steel 525 that'll fit the rear? Alternatively, do any of you cleverer fellows know of, by chance, a 535/17 that'll fit a '06 Shadow 750 Spirit? 😄 Sprocket specialists is the backup...they can make me an aluminum sprocket to my specs but I'd prefer to find commonly available parts if at all possible versus custom made.

Carburetors have been sold, shipped, and delivered. All items are in Lubbock, TX. I only accept checks or paypal friends and family payments. Frame is straight and clean but does not have a title. I will provide a Vermont accepted bill of sale. $100+shipping I do not know the last time the motor ran. It turns over cleanly without any noise, has lots of compression. I'm confident it'll be a decent motor but I have never heard it run. Does not have any external damage and does not look abused. Bike was parked because a previous owner wrecked it and never got back on. All of the electronics shown have been removed and sold already. $125+shipping Carburetors need a good cleaning, but they're not gunked up. Bowls everything were pretty clean but they were left open in a dusty environment. The slides move freely but you can feel the grit. The butterflies move smoothly. I do have the whole assembly soaked in penetrating oil. I've taken the caps off and the diaphragms all look to be in good shape but one of the caps has a suspicious crack in it that might warrant replacing...or a dab of JB Weld. Two of the velocity stacks are in good shape, two of them are pretty buggered up. There are no pilot, needle, or air jets...the plan was to rebuild them to stock but I'm getting there. If I got the jet sizes you need I can put them in for $5/ea, or cost at the dealership if I don't, but odds are you're going to want your own sizes. $115 shipped to the continental US. I recommend using Fastenal for shipping the frame or motor and I can pallet and deliver them to a local store...it's usually $75~100 for these kinds of things. $250 + shipping if you buy the lot.

I'm trying to check out vortex but their site only seems to let me select a both sprockets and a chain as an option. I just need the rear sprocket...I'll send them an email...

Tried sifting through the JT catalog and no luck. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Alright I'm building this thing and working on adapting an R1 wheel into it...but I've got an itch to try a single side setup. I need to find a wrecked 5th gen or someone breaking one up. If someone just has an arm laying around I'd be interested in that...I'm having a hard time pulling the trigger on eBay stuff because I think the pivot point is going to be too far away from the countersprocket to get the ride height I want and I won't be able to adjust the cast aluminum swingarm like I can with the stock steel arm. So...anyone got an arm they don't need laying about? Or a complete 5th gen they accidentally wrapped around a tree?

FYI: I ended up yanking the full harness off and stripping it down. I found a lot of water. What I imagine is that during our last snowstorm snow and ice managed to get into the harness, and as it melted deeper into the wires it started causing shorts and general mayhem. I now have a lot of the unnecessary components removed from the harness and 75" of it is located in a weatherproof box. Problem solved.

PAIR valve, nevermind.

Guys I'm trimming down a '98 harness and I've got a two-wire plug that's eluding me. Has a black wire with a white stripe, and an orange wire with a black stripe. I can't find it on my diagrams but I'm sure I'm just not looking in the right place. Anyone know what it is?

I don't know how to check that but would love to give it a try. Of course the engine started stumbling almost straight away last evening. If the injectors don't flow enough to fire properly, wouldn't the FI light trigger a clogged injector like it did when I plugged my filter up?

Yeah a clogged filter caused that one quite a long time ago and I never cleared it. Now I have 36~40psi all the way up to the fuel rail. It never drops.

Okay so I'm no longer convinced it's temperature related. I just went out to move the buggy and it was acting up almost immediately. Plus, it's 40*f out so if it were overheating I should have had more time than that. It wasn't backfiring so much this time as it was just not idling, low power, and stalls. FI light was when it started struggling, but if I gassed it the light would go off. Still no codes.