Refurbishing A Stolen, River-Found, Vfr 750...

[Guest]

great story with a happy ending.

[RollinAgain]

Thanks for the update on what appears to be a happy ending in the making. Out of curiosity how did your insurance company handle the whole situation? Did they consider the bike to be a total loss and pay you for the full value up front? Did you have to buy the bike back from them? Does the bike now have a salvage title? More details please.

Rollin

[RED RUNNER]

Terrific story! A bike that won't die is a keeper. Congratulations to all involved!

[LangoPTC]

Awesome!

[Traveller]

Thanks for the update on what appears to be a happy ending in the making. Out of curiosity how did your insurance company handle the whole situation? Did they consider the bike to be a total loss and pay you for the full value up front? Did you have to buy the bike back from them? Does the bike now have a salvage title? More details please.

Rollin

Well, in Greece it doesn't work exactly like that. Insurance companies are very reluctant to cover motorcycles for theft and none covers vandalism (which is what this was since the bike was found eventually).

Even if some company offered the above covers, when you travel abroad you are only covered for third party liability through the international insurance bureau, which basically means that if your vehicle is stolen you are up sh!t creek without a paddle. It is unfortunate but that's how it is around here (and I think in some other European countries).

On top of that asking the company to cover for the bike's damages would have been futile even if I did have full coverage because it would be written off in a blink of an eye. (And I should know such things because I've been working as an insurance agent for quite a few years.)

So knowing all this I didn't get the insurance company involved in the incident at all. What I did was to activate the road assistance cover of my policy and simply ask them to repatriate my bike. Our road assistance covers all the European countries and in case of an extensive damage which cannot be repaired locally you can request a repatriation with the company covering all necessary costs to bring the bike back.

It goes without saying that such a process does nothing to alter the bike's titles which remain exactly as they were. :)

[Traveller]

Just a short update on the bike; progress has been a bit slow due to long hours at work which pretty much leaves only the weekends free for everything else but I'll be trying to put in more work in the next few days.

After starting the bike up and verifying that she does work I started the long and complex process of taking her apart and restoring or replacing all the bits and pieces.
That is easier said than done as there's about a million bolts, nuts, springs, retainers, clips etc which all need to be removed, inspected and restored. (I may be overdoing it but I can't bring myself to do a half-arsed job, fixing some stuff and sweeping the rest under the carpet.)

So, with that in mind I decided to start at the back and work my way to the front. I figure working this way would be more thorough and hopefully a tad easier.

I took away the ECU, fuel pump relay, lights relay etc which were found to be in very good condition. For good measure I cleaned out their plugs anyway and checked for any dodgy connections etc

As I mentioned before the biggest problem at the moment is rust/corrosion on the metallic parts. I did some research on the matter and decided that the best way to go at least for iron parts is citric acid which is very mild acid that cleans out rust with great results.
I got 1 kilo of monohydrate citric acid in powder which depending on the strength needed you mix up with water in various quantities. I prepared a solution of about 15% (lemons have a concentration of 5% of citric acid) and got to work removing various parts.
To be honest any iron bolts migh simply be replaced with stainless steel items but this acid is good for any other parts that need to be retained.

I will admit I was a bit sceptical if the acid would work but it actually works wonders removing rust in a matter of 10-20 minutes. No fumes, no fizzing, no fuss; simply put the rusty parts in the bucket and get them out nice and clean.

Result? Not quite. While citric acid is great for iron it doesn't work for steel and aluminium.
Any steel parts left in citric acid come out with a dull dark grey/gunmetal colour. This can be cleaned up/polished nicely but it seems that the acid eats away the steel's plating. Fortunatelly that only happened to a couple of bolts but in any case I need another solution for cleaning steel and especially aluminium.

From what I've read citric acid attacks aluminium, so here we have a problem.
The footpegs/mountings are in a very bad state with the aluminium showing clear signs of corrosion/pitting everywhere so I need a good solution for cleaning them out.
I found that Henkel/Loctite has a special cleaning solution especially for corroded/pitted aluminium which I've had to order online. If it's any good remains to be seen.

Next up the removal of all the exhaust system/collector because the insides are in an absolutely horrific state with a lot of sludge and water still poolling in there which of course has to be cleaned out; we'll see what's what.

[Veefer800Canuck]

Good luck!

[WGREGT]

Great story. I have the same bike. Never knew it was this tough.

[Traveller]

Quick questions for you guys:

- Any ideas for cleaning aluminium parts? I have prepared a citric acid solution that works wonders on iron parts but I've read that it's a no-go for aluminium. Maybe some white vinegar?

- How do I remove the whole exhaust assembly? I am having great problems with this issue due to contradicting instructions.

Both the Honda service manual and Haynes mention that you need to remove the central stand, but to me it seems that the assembly comes out without removing the stand and on the other hand it mentions to simply remove the bolts on the read pipes but these are impossible to reach without removing the whole subframe.

Has anyone ever removed the assembly?

[Switchblade]

Acid, the only stuff i have ever seen work is the the stuff they use to clean air conditioner coils .

[Traveller]

Ok, small update:

So I managed to remove the exhaust assembly without removing the center stand. It needed a bit of wiggling but it got out in the end. I might need to remove the stand when I put it all back but that remains to be seen.

Regarding the aluminium parts I got some alu cleaning jelly (like naval jelly) from the States. If that doesn't work the parts will just go together with some others for a hot anodizing bath which will definitely sort them out. :)

The question I have now for you guys is regarding the rear downpipes clamp. There are 3 studs there and I managed to shear two of them so these need to be replaced. I had a look and these studs are in reality simple bolts which have been spot welded in place. That means that the weld will need ot come off before I replace these bolts.

Any idea how to do this? Removing the rear headers seems to be a major PITA; some people claim you need to remove the rear swingarm but this is not an option as I don't have the tools for it and the bike is immobilized ATM.

What do you think?

[The Phantom]

On a 4th Gen I have had good success in reaching the rear downpipe bolts at the head with a bunch of 1/4" drive extensions and one uni-joint.

I've also removed swingarms without special tools - I made a large hex-head key by finding a bolt that fit the hex, and bending it at 90 degrees, and I used a hammer and large screwdriver to undo the castellated locknut (which I removed without damaging it).

Once I had the locknut off it was easy to take an old socket and cut it up with an anglegrinder to make a tool for re-fitting it.

[Traveller]

I needn't have worried about removing the rear downpipes. With the subframe etc out of the way and with some penetrating oil on the studs the bolts came out like a piece of cake using just a small wrench. Result! :) Now I can take the downpipes down to a machining shop to remove the broken studs on the joint.

At the same time I've decided to get organized and made a list of tasks to go through as I work on the bike. Some stuff may seem trivial or not worth mentioning but it's better to have them there so that I remember to go through them.

Intake System
Clean airfilter
Clean airbox

Exhaust System
Clean shields
Clean/derust assembly
Replace studs on rear downpipes
Replace seals

Fuel System
Derust tank
Clean tank / fuel petcock / filters
Clean and lube the fuel tap
Check fuel connectors
Clean fuel pump

Engine
Clean casings
Inspect carb intakes
Clean carbs and manifolds
Lubricate throttle and choke cables
Change oil and oil filter
Change sparkplugs

Suspension
Adjust rear suspension preload
New placement of remote reservoir
Clean up / inspect bolts

Electrical System
Check and clean connectors
Check and measure wiring
Clean dashboard
Fix dash circuit board
Fix dash mounts
Fix clock
Fix rev counter
Replace dash needle stop
Clean headlights mirrors
Check / replace bulbs
Replace 12v plug
Replace volt meter
Clean and lube L/R switches

Cooling System
Check hoses for leaks
Clean hoses Replace coolant
Check radiator for rust and clean up

Brakes
Replace brake pads
Check hoses & seals / clean calipers / pistons
Anodize brake brackets & bolts

Clutch System
Check for leaks
Clean hoses and connectors
Clean slave piston

Fairings
Repair/respray
New stickers

Shop Tasks
Remove and derust triple tree
Lubricate Steering Head Bearings
Lubricate Front Wheel Bearings
Lubricate Rear Wheel Bearings
Lubricate Swingarm
Replace seat cover and padding

Body
Clean / derust rear subframe
Clean / respray plastic undertray
Clean / respray battery holder
Clean / polish frame
Derust footpeg brackets
Clean upper / lower clamps
Replace ignition lock
Replace bolts with stainless steel
Clean swingarm
Clean / respray chain guard
Clean / derust / lube chain
Clean sprocket cover
Clean / touchup / polish wheels

What do you guys think? Have I missed something?

[The Phantom]

I think this is a labour of love :)

The rear hub may need to come out of the swingarm - even VFRs that haven't gone into rivers can have corrosion problems here.

If your footpegs are going to be very difficult to restore, you could replace them - 1996 and earier CBR900RR footpegs bolt on, as do 2007-2008 R1 footpegs.

[Traveller]

I think this is a labour of love :)

The rear hub may need to come out of the swingarm - even VFRs that haven't gone into rivers can have corrosion problems here.

If your footpegs are going to be very difficult to restore, you could replace them - 1996 and earier CBR900RR footpegs bolt on, as do 2007-2008 R1 footpegs.

Glad you see it that way mate! :)

Very good point on the rear hub. I'll see if I can remove it myself or otherwise it will also go in the "shop" category.

I didn't know that the pegs of the early blades and the R1 can go on the bike. I'll have a look but I think I would prefer to keep the standard pegs and look of the bike.

[Traveller]

Hey all,

I am planning to get some work done on the bike in the Xmas season and I wanted to ask if I should replace the cooling liquid of the bike? Before going into the river it had just been changed out and I was thinking whether I should keep it or flush it out. Its color looks good but I am not certain. Any help?

[Veefer800Canuck]

Since the cooling system is sealed, no river water would have gotten into it, except for the overflow tank. I mean, if no coolant comes out, no water can go in, right?

If the overflow tank had been emptied after the bike was removed from the river, before the bike had run, I would say the coolant remaining in the radiator and engine is as good as before it went in the river.

[Baileyrock]

The Good the Bad and some Ugly in this story.

Great to hear about the local Club's offer to help and glad you have teh bike back home with you know.

Good luck with the process and sounds like you'll be riding it again soon!

[Switchblade]

I would have to replace every exposed bearing. And check any cavities that could dump crap out later.

Great work !!

[Veefer800Canuck]

I would have to replace every exposed bearing. And check any cavities that could dump crap out later.

Great work !!

You can pop the seals off, clean the bearings, and if they are not rusty, repack them with fresh grease and reinstall the seals.

[Switchblade]

I would have to replace every exposed bearing. And check any cavities that could dump crap out later.

Great work !!

You can pop the seals off, clean the bearings, and if they are not rusty, repack them with fresh grease and reinstall the seals.

Yeap but it is 1997 .

[fabio222]

I needn't have worried about removing the rear downpipes. With the subframe etc out of the way and with some penetrating oil on the studs the bolts came out like a piece of cake using just a small wrench. Result! :) Now I can take the downpipes down to a machining shop to remove the broken studs on the joint.

At the same time I've decided to get organized and made a list of tasks to go through as I work on the bike. Some stuff may seem trivial or not worth mentioning but it's better to have them there so that I remember to go through them.

Intake System

Clean airfilter

Clean airbox

Exhaust System

Clean shields

Clean/derust assembly

Replace studs on rear downpipes

Replace seals

Fuel System

Derust tank

Clean tank / fuel petcock / filters

Clean and lube the fuel tap

Check fuel connectors

Clean fuel pump

Engine

Clean casings

Inspect carb intakes

Clean carbs and manifolds

Lubricate throttle and choke cables

Change oil and oil filter

Change sparkplugs

Suspension

Adjust rear suspension preload

New placement of remote reservoir

Clean up / inspect bolts

Electrical System

Check and clean connectors

Check and measure wiring

Clean dashboard

Fix dash circuit board

Fix dash mounts

Fix clock

Fix rev counter

Replace dash needle stop

Clean headlights mirrors

Check / replace bulbs

Replace 12v plug

Replace volt meter

Clean and lube L/R switches

Cooling System

Check hoses for leaks

Clean hoses Replace coolant

Check radiator for rust and clean up

Brakes

Replace brake pads

Check hoses & seals / clean calipers / pistons

Anodize brake brackets & bolts

Clutch System

Check for leaks

Clean hoses and connectors

Clean slave piston

Fairings

Repair/respray

New stickers

Shop Tasks

Remove and derust triple tree

Lubricate Steering Head Bearings

Lubricate Front Wheel Bearings

Lubricate Rear Wheel Bearings

Lubricate Swingarm

Replace seat cover and padding

Body

Clean / derust rear subframe

Clean / respray plastic undertray

Clean / respray battery holder

Clean / polish frame

Derust footpeg brackets

Clean upper / lower clamps

Replace ignition lock

Replace bolts with stainless steel

Clean swingarm

Clean / respray chain guard

Clean / derust / lube chain

Clean sprocket cover

Clean / touchup / polish wheels

What do you guys think? Have I missed something?

That is a comprehensive list right there!

[Traveller]

Since the cooling system is sealed, no river water would have gotten into it, except for the overflow tank. I mean, if no coolant comes out, no water can go in, right?

If the overflow tank had been emptied after the bike was removed from the river, before the bike had run, I would say the coolant remaining in the radiator and engine is as good as before it went in the river.

These were my thoughts exactly. If no fluid can come out, no fluid can come in.

Only thing is that I did run the bike for a few seconds when I got her back and I failed to check the overflow tank. On later inspection it seems to just have a small amount of blue/green coolant without any traces of water. I think I'll just let it be for the moment.

The bearings is a major concern but I simply lack the tools needed to do the job.

I mean who has a torque wrench to undo a headstock nut that's tightened to 105 Nm? (Not to say anything about removing the rear hub or the swingarm)

I am thinking to get the rest done and take the bike to a shop and have them do these jobs for me. We'll see.

@Fabio

Cheers mate! Just this weekend I respayed the exhaust, the subframe, the black plastic undertray etc and will be getting on to check the front part of the bike, plus the electrics. After that its a matter of waiting for some parts from Honda (on special order from Japan) and starting to put her back together. I'll try to keep you all posted.

[Traveller]

Just another couple of questions for you guys; I need to replace the ignition lock as the thugs who tried to nick the bike broke the ignition's locking pin completely. The lock itself is working fine but the steering doesn't lock.

I was thinking of getting an aftermarket replacement and while I'm at it maybe I could get a lock from the later models that had the fancy keys? It may be needless but still...

So:

1. How would you rate one of those Chinese aftermarket copies? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Switch-Lock-Cylinder-Honda-CBR-600RR-F5-03-04-05-06-VFR800-2003-2008-/261253962246?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd3f31a06&vxp=mtr

2. Are the ignition locks interchangeable? Could I get a lock for a Vfr VTEC and put it to my model? I was thinking something like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Switch-Lock-Cylinder-Honda-CBR-600RR-F5-03-04-05-06-VFR800-2003-2008-/261253962246?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd3f31a06&vxp=mtr

[Veefer800Canuck]

I've now got a chinese copy ignition lock as linked in your previous post and it's working fine.

Don't get one of the ones with the barrel type key like they have in vending machines. I had that style previously and somehow, I got the key into the lock 99% of the way, and managed to turn it, and it locked on me, and bugger me if it wasn't impossible to reinsert the key and get it turned back to off from lock.

Had to remove it and replace it.

This style of key = bad: