badmanbatman Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Just did the fork adjustment that you all seem to have done but im just hoping it hadnt already been done by the preious owner Could someone tell me the distance that they have from the top of the fork to the clip ons so i know its not too low Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 you actually raise the forks but drop the triple tree. I believe the measurement is 39 or 43 millimeters depending on where you measure it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klrtovfr Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 remove the clipons from forks. then measure using a digital caliper or a measuring tape if you dont have one from the very top of the triple tree to the top of the fork. Stock on my 02 was 42mm. I raised the distance between them to 50mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmanbatman Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 Thanks for the info, i took the bike out for a good ride last night... WOW what a difference it made dropping the tree's and fitting bar risers. It was a more comfortable ride, the bike nosed in so much easier and i got alot of feedback from the bike Great mod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Great results! 41mm is stock for a 6th gen and 39mm for the 5th gen. You can always add a washer or two under the top rear shock mount point for even more improvement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Hey Baileyrock,your recommendation makes me wonder, better to raise the rear or lower the front??? Seems like raising the rear would maintain any clearance, but I doubt 10mm would really make a difference... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Hey Baileyrock,your recommendation makes me wonder, better to raise the rear or lower the front??? Seems like raising the rear would maintain any clearance, but I doubt 10mm would really make a difference... Yes you are correct! If you have clearance issues at all then raising the rear will help. If you are vertically challenged dropping the front would be better to help keep your feet on the ground when stopped! I have done both! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klrtovfr Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 I did the rear as well using two 2mm washers totaling 4mm. Actual rear rise of the shim approximately multiplied by 3 so that number is about 12mm. +12mm rear with 8-10mm front. It made a huge difference most noticeably on the track. The bike always felt lazy and uninspiring before. After doing this it felt like it dropped 100lbs of weight and I had no issues on a high speed track topped out at 154mph with 60mph turns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 klrtovfr, Thanks for the info. I'll look into doing this. As I've never done either, and to sound like a total NOOB, I'll ask the retarded questions. Do I need to remove the front fairing to access the triples to lower the front and is there a how to access the top of the shock to add washers and is it any particular washer to add? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 klrtovfr, Thanks for the info. I'll look into doing this. As I've never done either, and to sound like a total NOOB, I'll ask the retarded questions. Do I need to remove the front fairing to access the triples to lower the front and is there a how to access the top of the shock to add washers and is it any particular washer to add? I never remove anything to adjust the front, yes it's easier to do so but too much time wasted IMO. If you have a lift or stand, just support the front of the bike with a floor jack to control fork movement. I loosen the upper tree 12mm bolts completely then loosen the lower 14mm nuts just enough to get resistant fork movement. I use a rubber mallet to pop on the top of of the upper tree to get upper movement oof the fork tubes(no other item removed or loosened). I use a digital caliper to check and set the level of each leg, then snug the 14mm bolt to prevent movement until both legs are exactly where I want them. Once both leggs are at desired height you torque down both the upper and lower pinch bolts to spec and your done. You can slide the clip-ons down or leave them where there at.The rear is pretty easy also. All you need is a few washers of desired thinkness and slot them to slip over the bolt shaft. Remove seat, lift tank and loosen top shock mount nut enough to slip the slotted washers in place (between frame & top mount)then retiighten everything and your done. BR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 What inside diameter would I need for the washers? I have a Fastenal near me and I would like to pick up some stainless washers of the appropriate size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duccmann Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Hey Lintboy...I didn it on mine once I put the Heli bars on...two different torque measurements to tighten up the triple tree both the bottom and top ....... if my memory serves me right...then again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 That's Mr. Lintboy to you sir!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klrtovfr Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 its a 10mm nut so that or 3/8" should work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Thanks, I'll check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Ok, to bring back a thread from the dead, I raised the forks about ten mm about two weeks ago. Tonight I shimmed the rear shock for mm, but no chance to ride it yet. I should be able to get a test ride tomorrow.The 10mm drop off the front did wonders. I look forward to further improvement nowI just want to double check the torque speck for the rear shock nut. If I read it right, the service manual states 42nm our 31 ft lbs. Am I right on this? I shined the shock with a free used alignment shim from my local tire/alignment ship. My caliper measured it to just about 4mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted May 2, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 2, 2015 10mm is getting to the edge imho So a few high(er) speed acc- and decellerations In a straight line on a smooth surface, what happens of from say 50mph you close throttel and release the handlebars? (keep your hands hovering over the grips). If you start getting serious woobles, you may just drop them a little less... YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 I'll do that, thanks. I've had it north of 100 with just the raised forks with no issues. But, since I have raised the rear, I suppose prudence is still good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 So, shimmed shock, raised forks, I've ridden freeway and canyons with no complaints. When I raised the forks, I dropped the handlebars as well, but, when I do my long trips, I can raise the bars up a bit for comfort, or drop them for agility. Not a lot, mind you, but some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRpwr Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 10mm is getting to the edge imho So a few high(er) speed acc- and decellerations In a straight line on a smooth surface, what happens of from say 50mph you close throttel and release the handlebars? (keep your hands hovering over the grips). If you start getting serious woobles, you may just drop them a little less... YMMV Recently had a chance for a few medium(?) speed track runs after making this modification. Wanted to creep peak speed up in order to judge chassis stability per Dutchy's suggested test: Chassis Setup: - Forks raised/triples dropped by 10mm - Rear shock shimmed by 6mm - Tapered roller bearings in steering head - Michelin PR4 tires 32/32psi Results: - 85 mph +/- peak speed recorded of the day at the braking point of a tight, technical track (TMP in Cayuga, ON) with no discernible instability or 'head shake' during transition from WOT to my (YMMV. Greatly) maximum, tire squirming braking. Observations: - Turn in effort was reduced greatly (can only imagine what focused sport tires would be like, hmmmm.........) - Best modification made since having the suspension sprung and tuned for my weight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Ok, I know I posted here, but I have been playing with my stock suspension. At first I raised the forks in the triple clamp 12mm, then I shimmed the rear shock 4mm for a total of 12mm. All I can say is Oh My Gawd! I have ridden it a bit with this setup, but not enough to really get a good feel for it.Today I rode up it at a good clip in some twisties and I am loving how well it works. Tipping in to the turns is sooooo easy. It flips side to side so much easier now and it is so easy to carry speed through the turns. I cannot recommend this enough. It's free or nearly free and it makes such an incredible difference in how the bike handles. Don't be concerned about stability, as it is stupid stable in all respects. Braking, acceleration, etc. Hell, today I was braking hard into a downhill left turn and downshifting at the same time. I downshifted one time too many and while leaned over the back tire started sliding out to the right side. I pulled in the clutch quickly and stayed hard on the brakes and it all went right. This all happened in about two seconds but the bike just kept right on. No drama.I know that with an aftermarket suspension it gets even better, but damn, for free, this is a MUST do! When I raised the forks in the triples, I lowered the bars back down to the top clamp, so while I don't know if that makes a difference it does put me a bit more over the front.For the shim for the rear, I just went down to a tire shop that does alignments and they gave me an old alignment shim. It measured 4mm thick, so that puts me at a total of 12.I. Am. Loving. This Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted April 6, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 6, 2016 I will post a pic soon taken by Lee Parks at my Total Control Instructor training this past week where I dropped my VFR after folding the front tire over onto the sidewall with absolutely no feedback. Lee said "It almost seems like you don't have enough trail..." and we discussed my incorrect assumption that the VFR had stability in spades and could afford the rear ride height raised to the max and the front dropped about 15mm. The missing trail is what provides the stability and feedback while leaned over. I raised the front back to stock height and the rear is still so tall that a new rear tire will not rotate on the center stand. With the front raised the bike initially felt like a chopper comparatively but the feedback mid corner is back and the bike has enough trail now to self-center as the wheel is being steered (think shopping cart front wheel) which was missing and numb before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 6, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted April 6, 2016 Assuming you dropped your entire bike more than 10mm, good luck with the repairs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soichiro Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 10mm was too much for me. I went with 6mm. Low soeed stability is horrible over 6mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GigemVFR Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Maybe it's too early in the morning for my brain to comprehend but does lowering the front offset the benefit of puting risers on handle bars? Meaning, does it put your riding position back to where it was prior to installing risers? Now, time to go get coffee so my brain can warm up to operating temp. thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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