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I have stoppers in vtec buckets and reinstalled cams, exhaust cam now looks much better.

Ok, whether timing is correct or not, it's not likely the reason it's lost so much power as it was exactly the same way from 20,000 to 60,000 miles and was running mostly good up until this year on the same timing.

Here is the front cams, also timing mark pointing slightly down on intake.

This is through the frame hole. One is slightly from bottom and one is toward the top. It's hard to photograph exactly in the middle. Also cam lobes arnt visually equally diagonal with exhaust appears to be more upward.

I'm at work now but I think RE is directly above the #3 timing mark almost where the timing mark should be. As far as I know I'm second owner since 6700 miles and the gears were never seperated from cam shaft. I did the first valve inspection at 20,000 (everything in spec) but it's been so many years since then I don't remember if the timing mark was off like that from the factory.

I wish that they used higher resolution photos of the cam sprocket marks. I have a hard copy of the service manual. Also #3 was my highest compression at 160, #1 was 150.

So far non vtec valves are perfect in rear, front 2 cylinders are way off for both intake and exhaust were .011" spec is .014"+-.001" and intake were .005" spec is .008"+-.001" and , I'm in the process of getting the rear cams off and noticed the rear exhaust cam timing mark seems to be pointing slightly down at #3 tdc and not perpendicular as it should. Intake cam is good. Not sure if it's normal for it to be slightly off but it's been this way since 20,000 miles when last checked and now has 60,000. I will be getting the injectors cleaned, changing fpr out, and replacing most if not all vacuum lines.

Other than being dirty around the throttle body. The hoses all seem fine and soft although 20 years old. I have the evaporative canister and pair removed and capped. Last time I even had the airbox removed was 5 years ago for the starter valve synch.

It smokes for about 2 seconds but it's definitely not oil burn or water vapor. And occasionally when I get on it and someone is behind me it does the same. It's been doing that for probably the last 20,000 miles. I do have 98 catless headers and I gutted stock exhaust.

This is mostly a track bike, last year on my last session I started getting a stutter and surge of power at around 8000 rpms as if it had a second vtec. I have since replaced the spark plugs with new ngk iridium and the stutter went away even though the old ones with 2 seasons looked good, however I'm losing about 10% acceleration and top speed on the track. I have changed nothing else related to engine electrical or air/fuel. It has 60,000 miles and is due for a valve clearance check and I will be doing that but is there any other possible reasons it's lost power? I have a power commander and bypassed it and there was no change. It also appears to run rich as 75% of the time on startup it spews unburnt fuel vapor out of the exhaust. Video clip of the difference

Most likely would need to be drawn up in solidworks if no one else has done so yet. You would have to make some measurements to do so

If you find it's bottoming out you can try adding 5-10mm oil to use as a bandaid

That's fine for OEM forks, but if you do fork upgrades you will want the 5w oil I linked. The ss8 is too thick for upgraded valves

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/08C35-A071M?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwODlBRDuARIsAMy_28VKunGdu3lVIrOR8HADWVriSxDPGsQ9q8RE4-7klt0IcD2QEzferEQaAkqoEALw_wcB This is one of the fork oils recommended by jamie. I went to my local dealer and they don't put it out in the showroom display. I gave them the part number and they found it in the backroom.

Highly recommend Dunlop q3+ for novice through intermediate pace. I mostly ride a 6th gen at Road America in Wisconsin. Stock suspension is ok at novice pace but you will notice under hard braking from a long straight that it will bottom out the forks quickly so practice doing braking in steps rather than mashing it. Even just a fork spring change would be beneficial if you don't want to spend on a complete suspension setup right now. If you are up to it remove the center stand which requires removing the head pipe. I use ebc efpa brake pads which are their trackday pads and have been happy with performance. It may help to lower the front and raise rear a little to make it easier to flick in the turns. On my 6th gen forks are at 50mm from 42mm stock and rear raised about 10mm

2 1000cc vs 2 vfr https://youtu.be/LY69hsiQ0Y0

Check your wires going into each coil. I've had both a bent electrode on a sparkplug possibly from a mouse getting in the cylinder and I've also had loose pins in the waterproof connectors of the coil. You'll know that's the issue if you move the wire harness around each coil it will lose a cylinder. Wouldn't hurt to add an extra ground to the ECU like in my earlier thread. That made it run much smoother.