otmaximus Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 I started the day thinking I would do a relatively straight-forward coolant system repair. I'm replacing all the gaskets and o-rings on the t-stat and crossover pipe. But the most frustrating part of the job was all the tubes and hoses from the PAIR system in the way. I started dismantling everything, I have some notes from an old posting several years ago. Has anyone done this recently? Any tips or suggestions? Thanks! Paul in SoCal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2014 There are probably as many post regarding PAIR and PAIR removal as tire and oil threads. I have a link to one but it's on my desktop PC and I'm not near it at the moment (on the iPad). When I get the chance I'll post it, unless someone beats me to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 I did just a few weeks back. The front 2 cylinders are easy. The rear? well, it requires some imagination and I simply ended up cutting the tubing to get it out easier. If you are doing ANYTHING with the rear shock, it makes putting the rear block off plates on easier if it is out of the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otmaximus Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 I second that. I just pinched the tubes and sealed with JB Weld. I was going to ask what makes it easier, removing the shock, the rear subframe or what. Glad I know now. At some point I'll swap the rear shock, I'll remove the tubes at that point, and cap the hole like I did with the front. Otherwise it wasnt as complicated as I thought. Just be methodical, trace all the tubes and cap off anything removed. That bike is still down while I'm waiting for a couple of coolant gaskets to come in. But I'm going to reward with myself for a job (mostly) done with a quick ride up Ortega to the Outlook for lunch. Paul in SoCal (the 94 has 252,000 for those who are counting) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I don't think I like the sound of this pair removal. Growing a pair, now we're talking. Sorry. :laugh2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Went through the same when I changed my thermostat valve on my 4th gen. Honda seems to just love to install things in the way of components that will need servicing access. Really beat up my knuckles getting the old thermostat out and the new one in, doing everything more by feel that by sight. A job that could have taken only 10 minutes, took over an hour of pain to do..... Curses to the Honda engineers who decided where to put the pair valves on the 4th gen! :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 after rereading, I would go through the pain (frustration really) of getting block off plates. The rear are a total pain without the shock removed, but I wouldn't go the jb weld/pinch route. I've put the rear plates in with the shock in...just takes some finagling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrAustin Posted March 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2014 I found it very satisfying removing as much of that stuff as I could (5th Gen) With the PAIR, delink and COP on my model left a decent sized pile of stuff that will never be used again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted March 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2014 Since we are one the topic, there were two small vacuum lines that went to the inside of the Pair valve. When the valve is removed, are those supposed to be capped? I removed the PAIR valve this weekend (also after replacing the t-stat and rejetting), but now the engine decelerates very slowly. It feels like I inadvertently blocked off a bleed tube for the diaphragms or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 ^^the lines coming off the PAIR should have come from the intakes on the carbs. Yes, they get plugged. As for the slow decel, I'm not sure. I just took my Charlotte out for a shake down and had no issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2014 Since we are one the topic, there were two small vacuum lines that went to the inside of the Pair valve. When the valve is removed, are those supposed to be capped? I removed the PAIR valve this weekend (also after replacing the t-stat and rejetting), but now the engine decelerates very slowly. It feels like I inadvertently blocked off a bleed tube for the diaphragms or something. reread the depair thread. you have to replace the vacuum port lines with screws and block off the cyinder head ports. cap off the airbox and trash all the crap in the middle . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted March 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2014 I know you have a detailed depair thread somewhere. I've seen it with my own eyes. But for the life of me, I cannot find it. Can you post that link up? I did essentially what you summized, but I wouldn't mind reviewing the detailed description. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 GLL has a good thread, I just wish I could explain it in text. It is such an easy thing to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2014 pm sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbroshi Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 GLL could you point me to that as well? I searched 17 pages of your posts and couldn't find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 14, 2014 GLL could you point me to that as well? I searched 17 pages of your posts and couldn't find it. pm sent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otmaximus Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 after rereading, I would go through the pain (frustration really) of getting block off plates. The rear are a total pain without the shock removed, but I wouldn't go the jb weld/pinch route. I've put the rear plates in with the shock in...just takes some finagling. The pinch/JB Weld is a temporary fix. But if I get a chance to play around with it some more, I'll see if I can get to them behind the shock. The other thing I need to do is remove the plate above the carbs. There were a couple of tubes sticking out that I just plugged, whereas I know I should have removed the plate, traced them back and plugged them at the source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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