otmaximus

The brand is called Earth-X or something like that. I bought it from a vendor at the IMS bike show a while back. It would be easy enough to question the quality, but reality it’s lasted about as long as I expected it to. I put it on the battery tender and it’s been back to normal. Maybe it’s got a little less starting power or maybe it’s just my mind playing tricks on me. As a backup I bought an AGM, but I’ll wait to install it until the Lithium starts to do something weird again. Paul in SoCal

I posted this in the 3G/4G Forum, but this is a better fit. I think I’m getting to the end of life of a Li battery I installed many years ago. But it isn’t behaving how a traditional lead-acid battery does when it’s done. With an AGM battery, it will struggle to turn over, stop, then maybe I’ll here the starter relay click when the button is pushed. last week when I went to start my bike, the engine began to turn over, then it lost all power it cut out quickly and completely, including the lights and digital clock. if I recall, with an AGM, the lights would come back on when the starter button was released if there was still a little juice left, just not the CCA to turn the engine over. Does a Li battery behave differently because of its design? i brought the battery into a shop to be tested and he said the meter was telling him the CCA was reading low but he wasn’t really confident b/c he wasn’t sure the reader was set up for Li batteries. I put the battery on my Deltran Li charger and after about an hour it showed full charge, but I don’t know if it should have taken longer. The clerk at the store said if it showed fully charged quickly it could mean the battery capacity was limited. i don’t keep the Li battery on the tender like I used to with AGM batteries. With AGM batteries I kept them on the tender every night, all the time (I ride every day) and I would get 7-8 years out of a battery. It’s probably been about that long that I’ve had this Li battery installed, so it very well could be the end of its life. But if what I’m describing sounds more like a short or something I want to try to find that problem. Because the bike was able to start after the initial trouble. The next day after the first time I experienced the “dead battery” it started right up. But that’s when I took it out to get tested. Paul in SoCal

Since this is a kit, I assume it’s stock gearing. It’s not a problem getting the OE gearing here. I’m just bummed I don’t have the options any more for taller gearing. I’m back to commuting about 120 miles/day, so I’m trying to squeeze as many miles as I can out of a gallon of fuel. Paul in SoCal.

I think I’m getting to the end of life of a Li battery I installed many years ago. But it isn’t behaving how a traditional lead-acid battery does when it’s done. With an AGM battery, it will struggle to turn over, stop, then maybe I’ll here the starter relay click when the button is pushed. last week when I went to start my bike, the engine began to turn over, then it lost all power it cut out quickly and completely, including the lights and digital clock. if I recall, with an AGM, the lights would come back on when the starter button was released if there was still a little juice left, just not the CCA to turn the engine over. Does a Li battery behave differently because of its design? i brought the battery into a shop to be tested and he said the meter was telling him the CCA was reading low but he wasn’t really confident b/c he wasn’t sure the reader was set up for Li batteries. I put the battery on my Deltran Li charger and after about an hour it showed full charge, but I don’t know if it should have taken longer. The clerk at the store said if it showed fully charged quickly it could mean the battery capacity was limited. i don’t keep the Li battery on the tender like I used to with AGM batteries. With AGM batteries I kept them on the tender every night, all the time (I ride every day) and I would get 7-8 years out of a battery. It’s probably been about that long that I’ve had this Li battery installed, so it very well could be the end of its life. But if what I’m describing sounds more like a short or something I want to try to find that problem. Because the bike was able to start after the initial trouble. The next day after the first time I experienced the “dead battery” it started right up. But that’s when I took it out to get tested. Paul in SoCal

I’ve been running 17T and 41T for years, but it’s hard to find non-stock or non-OEM parts anymore. Just not as much aftermarket support for the old-timers. Paul in SoCal

If I could find a 3G wheel that would be the way to go. 5G is more available on eBay. But it’s a pain notching out the center of the wheel to match the 4G hub.

Thanks for the feedback. I can definitely tell the difference between the 180 and the 170. I ran a Shinko 170 once and it was way wider than a normal 170. I figure a 180 must have a similar profile to that Shinko. just wasn’t sure if the integrity of the wider tire mounted on the stock rim would be affected. cant be much more variable than a worn tire or under-inflated tire. paul in SoCal

I have a 5G wheel mounted on my 97 so I could run a more common 180 tire. My 94 still has the original wheel with a 170 tire. Does anyone run a 180 tire on the original width 4G wheel? paul in SoCal

Thanks Grum. I’ll pass this along to the guy that’s helping me with this. -Paul

The wires from the keyed ignition switch that go behind the instrument cluster.

Does anyone know if the ignition in a 4G (97) is a 6-pin or 3-pin. There are 2 different models available and I’d like to order it before I disassemble my ignition.

You did the right thing using the gixxer R/R, that's what I use and dont have any problems. Just check the wires all the way to the starter relay by the battery, and also the wires from the stator, especially the connecion under the right mid-fairing