otmaximus

My high mileage ~280k 94 finally gave out on me. I’ve borrowed a few parts for my other bikes and I was going to hang onto it for a while for future parts. But I don’t think I’ll ever be riding the 30k miles a year like I used to. If someone local wants it for parts it’s all yours, but I want to get rid of everything together. Including a spare 3G motor that supposedly ran, but itself has had parts pilfered from it. And an extra set of forks. What remains of the plastic is worthless. I thinks it’s worth it just for the SSSA, plus it has a Factory Pro shift kit, a well-used but great sounding micron pipe, Fumoto valve drain plug. clutch was recently rebuilt by a Honda dealer, plates, springs and master cylinder. tank is solid but faded but tank bra is in excellent shape. Fuse and ground block installed. Comes with a clean title and current, non-op reg. does NOT come with the givi trunk barely visible in the pic. located in Riverside County, Cali. (Don’t worry i still have two 4G VFRs left) I don’t know how compatible the 3G and the 4G motors are, but you may be able to piece together a working motor between the two. Though I can’t imagine it would be worth it. the mechanic that worked on the engine last can give specifics on what gave out. peace

The brand is called Earth-X or something like that. I bought it from a vendor at the IMS bike show a while back. It would be easy enough to question the quality, but reality it’s lasted about as long as I expected it to. I put it on the battery tender and it’s been back to normal. Maybe it’s got a little less starting power or maybe it’s just my mind playing tricks on me. As a backup I bought an AGM, but I’ll wait to install it until the Lithium starts to do something weird again. Paul in SoCal

I posted this in the 3G/4G Forum, but this is a better fit. I think I’m getting to the end of life of a Li battery I installed many years ago. But it isn’t behaving how a traditional lead-acid battery does when it’s done. With an AGM battery, it will struggle to turn over, stop, then maybe I’ll here the starter relay click when the button is pushed. last week when I went to start my bike, the engine began to turn over, then it lost all power it cut out quickly and completely, including the lights and digital clock. if I recall, with an AGM, the lights would come back on when the starter button was released if there was still a little juice left, just not the CCA to turn the engine over. Does a Li battery behave differently because of its design? i brought the battery into a shop to be tested and he said the meter was telling him the CCA was reading low but he wasn’t really confident b/c he wasn’t sure the reader was set up for Li batteries. I put the battery on my Deltran Li charger and after about an hour it showed full charge, but I don’t know if it should have taken longer. The clerk at the store said if it showed fully charged quickly it could mean the battery capacity was limited. i don’t keep the Li battery on the tender like I used to with AGM batteries. With AGM batteries I kept them on the tender every night, all the time (I ride every day) and I would get 7-8 years out of a battery. It’s probably been about that long that I’ve had this Li battery installed, so it very well could be the end of its life. But if what I’m describing sounds more like a short or something I want to try to find that problem. Because the bike was able to start after the initial trouble. The next day after the first time I experienced the “dead battery” it started right up. But that’s when I took it out to get tested. Paul in SoCal

Since this is a kit, I assume it’s stock gearing. It’s not a problem getting the OE gearing here. I’m just bummed I don’t have the options any more for taller gearing. I’m back to commuting about 120 miles/day, so I’m trying to squeeze as many miles as I can out of a gallon of fuel. Paul in SoCal.

I think I’m getting to the end of life of a Li battery I installed many years ago. But it isn’t behaving how a traditional lead-acid battery does when it’s done. With an AGM battery, it will struggle to turn over, stop, then maybe I’ll here the starter relay click when the button is pushed. last week when I went to start my bike, the engine began to turn over, then it lost all power it cut out quickly and completely, including the lights and digital clock. if I recall, with an AGM, the lights would come back on when the starter button was released if there was still a little juice left, just not the CCA to turn the engine over. Does a Li battery behave differently because of its design? i brought the battery into a shop to be tested and he said the meter was telling him the CCA was reading low but he wasn’t really confident b/c he wasn’t sure the reader was set up for Li batteries. I put the battery on my Deltran Li charger and after about an hour it showed full charge, but I don’t know if it should have taken longer. The clerk at the store said if it showed fully charged quickly it could mean the battery capacity was limited. i don’t keep the Li battery on the tender like I used to with AGM batteries. With AGM batteries I kept them on the tender every night, all the time (I ride every day) and I would get 7-8 years out of a battery. It’s probably been about that long that I’ve had this Li battery installed, so it very well could be the end of its life. But if what I’m describing sounds more like a short or something I want to try to find that problem. Because the bike was able to start after the initial trouble. The next day after the first time I experienced the “dead battery” it started right up. But that’s when I took it out to get tested. Paul in SoCal

I’ve been running 17T and 41T for years, but it’s hard to find non-stock or non-OEM parts anymore. Just not as much aftermarket support for the old-timers. Paul in SoCal

If I could find a 3G wheel that would be the way to go. 5G is more available on eBay. But it’s a pain notching out the center of the wheel to match the 4G hub.

Thanks for the feedback. I can definitely tell the difference between the 180 and the 170. I ran a Shinko 170 once and it was way wider than a normal 170. I figure a 180 must have a similar profile to that Shinko. just wasn’t sure if the integrity of the wider tire mounted on the stock rim would be affected. cant be much more variable than a worn tire or under-inflated tire. paul in SoCal

I have a 5G wheel mounted on my 97 so I could run a more common 180 tire. My 94 still has the original wheel with a 170 tire. Does anyone run a 180 tire on the original width 4G wheel? paul in SoCal

Thanks Grum. I’ll pass this along to the guy that’s helping me with this. -Paul

The wires from the keyed ignition switch that go behind the instrument cluster.

Does anyone know if the ignition in a 4G (97) is a 6-pin or 3-pin. There are 2 different models available and I’d like to order it before I disassemble my ignition.

I need to bleed the brakes on a Y2K. It’s not my bike and I don’t have a manual for it. Is this video good for a step-by-step guide? i generally apply a vacuum to the bleeder when I crack open the valve after squeezing the lever/pedal. Besides that difference, I just want to see if the order of things presented here works. Including that step of lifting the front left caliper while bleeding the p-valve and the front right middle bleeder, etc. Thanks in advance. Paul in SoCal

Nice post VFR superfreak. I replaced my stator several years ago with something off eBay from a bike with fewer miles. Your post has me considering sending the original stator out for a rewind. Where is “around here” for you? Paul in SoCal

Also it looks like the clamp bolt is in, I assume you loosened it before, but make sure it’s not tightened down. Not sure if that will help. When I had to remove mine , I remember putting a block of wood on the end of the axle and having to whack it pretty good with a heavy mallet. Why are you removing it? For mine if I recall correctly the inner bearings had rusted and siezed and everything was jammed up in there. Good luck.