bigmac9137 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 If I place ends of volt meter on battery terminals of my 98 vfr800, what Voltage should I read at idle and 5k RPMs? Last I checked mine it was: Idle: 12.09V 5K: 12.19V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted March 6, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2014 Idle - 12.7-13.2V 5K - 13.7-14.2V Those are my thoughts. If at 5K you're not seeing a jump in voltage, you have an issue with your charging system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmac9137 Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Thanks Yoshi, I knew I had a problem, just wanted to get a true sense of where it should be. I am changing my R/R Saturday, and then will check again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrurknee Posted March 6, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2014 What's the battery voltage read with everything turned off? If it is much lower than 12v you might need to replace the battery as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 7, 2014 Check the battery first. --- Charge it overnite and get it load tested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted March 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 7, 2014 I installed a Rick's R/R from Tightwad on my 5th gen after the OEM started failing. I now get 14.3v to 14.5v from idle all the way to 5,000 rpm. The electrical forum has lots of threads on diagnosing charging problems. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/forum/7-electrical/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmac9137 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 Yea I have gone through those threads and it's hard to find someone just giving numbers and what it should be. I checked my battery before the winter when it started havin problems and it tested good. Charging it tonight, put a new R/R on it today, and will test tomorrow. Just hoping it doesn't end up Being stator! My end on last R/R melted inside the plug, end adaptor thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 8, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2014 Yea I have gone through those threads and it's hard to find someone just giving numbers and what it should be. I checked my battery before the winter when it started havin problems and it tested good. Charging it tonight, put a new R/R on it today, and will test tomorrow. Just hoping it doesn't end up Being stator! My end on last R/R melted inside the plug, end adaptor thing! If you want a straight up step by step.... check this............. Steps: - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.) - Check stator - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off) - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart) - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart. - Repeat hot. This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.) http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmac9137 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Yea I have gone through those threads and it's hard to find someone just giving numbers and what it should be. I checked my battery before the winter when it started havin problems and it tested good. Charging it tonight, put a new R/R on it today, and will test tomorrow. Just hoping it doesn't end up Being stator! My end on last R/R melted inside the plug, end adaptor thing! If you want a straight up step by step.... check this.............Steps: - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.) - Check stator - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off) - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart) - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart. - Repeat hot. This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.) http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf So I am kind of a starter when comes to this but here are my findings. I placed a brand new R/R in the system yesterday, charged battery overnight and today my DV Voltage reading at bike on idle, low Beams was about 13.2V. When I rev to 5K it goes slightly down to about 12.9V. I tried the stator test on the connector pictures below and got around 0.8 ohms on all tests. Thoughts,? Dead stator? My connector on old R/R that went to yellow wires was melted inside... Here is what my old one looked like end of last year... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted March 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2014 You might consider a vfrness as its called.. heres a pic of the one i made to replace melted RR connector block and lines. The standard honda ground goes into the middle of the rear loom which i suggest cannot cope well with the amount of extra discharge. So now i have two new earths, green, one for the frame, one to battery negative. A new line to the charging input, red/white on the starter block behind battery and another positive, red direct to battery.. i also added a fuse inline after this photo to the new red charging line to battery terminal. The 3 yellow lines are shorter as i removed the charging wires from the middle of the hot block to along the left to a remounted RR in the cool on the left rear side. I assume the extra heat from the middle of the block is heating up the RR unnecessarily along the copper lines.. Power went from a sitting 12.9, 13.4 at 500 revs to 14.5 whilst engine running from 2000 to 5000 revs. Battery(i now use a racing lithium item) also now sits around 13.9 when engine off... and so far no meltdown issues... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2014 Have you load tested the battery? In the sceme of things, you need to verify that the battey is good ---- FIRST. Without doing this, your wasting your time. As a btw - is the R/R a new OEM Honda part? Mileage on the bike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmac9137 Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Have you load tested the battery? In the sceme of things, you need to verify that the battey is good ---- FIRST. Without doing this, your wasting your time. As a btw - is the R/R a new OEM Honda part? Mileage on the bike? I tested battery when problem first occurred at end of fall, and it was fine, gonna do it again today! R/R is not OEM but a aftermarket replacement. 32,000 miles on bike. Is best bet, if battery checks out, pick apart and look at stator to see if it's burnt out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 You might consider a vfrness as its called.. heres a pic of the one i made to replace melted RR connector block and lines. The standard honda ground goes into the middle of the rear loom which i suggest cannot cope well with the amount of extra discharge. IMG_0455.JPG So now i have two new earths, green, one for the frame, one to battery negative. A new line to the charging input, red/white on the starter block behind battery and another positive, red direct to battery.. i also added a fuse inline after this photo to the new red charging line to battery terminal. The 3 yellow lines are shorter as i removed the charging wires from the middle of the hot block to along the left to a remounted RR in the cool on the left rear side. I assume the extra heat from the middle of the block is heating up the RR unnecessarily along the copper lines.. Power went from a sitting 12.9, 13.4 at 500 revs to 14.5 whilst engine running from 2000 to 5000 revs. Battery(i now use a racing lithium item) also now sits around 13.9 when engine off... and so far no meltdown issues... I think this is the first time I have seen someone replicate my work! Awesome! Was the Stator wire length ok? It looks quite a bit shorter than what I use...maybe mine is too long and no one is complaining? Two suggestions however: #1. You need a fuse inline on the positive wires...you do NOT want the wire acting as a fusible link! #2. Increase the wire size of the positive and negative wires. The VFRness uses 10 gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted March 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2014 You might consider a vfrness as its called.. heres a pic of the one i made to replace melted RR connector block and lines. The standard honda ground goes into the middle of the rear loom which i suggest cannot cope well with the amount of extra discharge. IMG_0455.JPG So now i have two new earths, green, one for the frame, one to battery negative. A new line to the charging input, red/white on the starter block behind battery and another positive, red direct to battery.. i also added a fuse inline after this photo to the new red charging line to battery terminal. The 3 yellow lines are shorter as i removed the charging wires from the middle of the hot block to along the left to a remounted RR in the cool on the left rear side. I assume the extra heat from the middle of the block is heating up the RR unnecessarily along the copper lines.. Power went from a sitting 12.9, 13.4 at 500 revs to 14.5 whilst engine running from 2000 to 5000 revs. Battery(i now use a racing lithium item) also now sits around 13.9 when engine off... and so far no meltdown issues... I think this is the first time I have seen someone replicate my work! Awesome! Was the Stator wire length ok? It looks quite a bit shorter than what I use...maybe mine is too long and no one is complaining? Two suggestions however: #1. You need a fuse inline on the positive wires...you do NOT want the wire acting as a fusible link! #2. Increase the wire size of the positive and negative wires. The VFRness uses 10 gauge. As the write up mentioned, i added a fuse inline on the positive just after this picture was taken. Altho not mentioned here i did go up a gauge on the wires also. The yellow lines are shorter as i rerouted the stator plug with lines and RR along the left side of the bike. Removing unwanted engine heat traveling along to the RR and keeping things cooler in general. Makes it quite a bit shorter also. At the moment it hardly gets silly hot at all.... Track day coming up this Sunday... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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