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What Suspension for the non-racer?


Cmac

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So after reading through LOTS of postings in the forum on suspension, I decided it sounds like a good thing for me. My head hurts just thinking about the all the options, and try to understand what I REALLY want/need for my kind of riding style, experience and environment. So, thought I would start a new thread, and see what kind of advicce I can get from the VFRD wisdom bank.

Here's the stats:

I am currently running stock suspension on my 2004 VFR. I weight 215 without gear. I don't commute much on my bike, but rather ride it for fun in the twisties for a couple hours a few times a week. I am running Bridgestone S20's. I have been to one track day, and definately plan attending a few more next year. I ride aggressively enough, and scrape the pegs every now and then. I want suspension that will improve my equipment and riding experience, but don't want over kill this project with and gadgets I probably will never mess with. I'm probably a set it and forget kind of guy.

So for rear springs, I think I narrowed it down to :

CBR 929 conversion from Daugherty for $455

Penske 8900E $625

Penske 8983 $875

Ohlin S46DR1 $507

Ohlin S46DR1S $747

Some big swings in prices, and not sure if I'd be throwing money away for the high end shocks if really don't know how to get anything out, or if I'll regret not getting the best in year. I have read periodic comments that seemed to indicate aggressive street riding just doesn't need as much shock options as experience track racers. This seems be because of the variable conditions on the street. Not sure if I'm interpretting that correctly.

As for front suspension:

I'll definately being doing the springs and revalve, with either Daugherty or GP Suspension (which is popular in the Northwest). I was thinking this will really depends on whether I go with the CBR 929 Daugherty product, or an Penske/Ohlin option which I would get though a local dealer.

I talked to Jamie Daugherty for a few minutes, definately a very helpful and friendly guy that seemed to know his stuff, and has favorable ratings on this forum. (Thanks for the time Jamie). I just keep coming with new questions, and reading the unlimted opinions on various forums that have my spinning.

I would greatly appreciate product experiences and feedback, as it relates to my riding style.

Regards.

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Jamie did my 5th Gen with a 929 rebuilt shock sprung and valved for me, and revalved my converted SP1 forks.

I think it helped that I did them seperately, so I wasn't making changes to both ends at the same time and trying to figure out what was doing what. (Plus I set up the SP1 forks on the VFR forks the same as my SP1.)

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One other option to consider is finding a used Penske, Ohlins or other premium aftermarket shock.

Not needing it NOW, of course, increases the chances of finding one that fits your budget.

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Jamie worked his magic on my 6th gen forks and stock shock. I commute daily and my weekend rides are "sporty" but I'd say I ride pretty docile compared to most. The improvement for me was pretty dramatic. The bike doesn't chatter on rough pavement, it holds a line much better, and the steering is much lighter. I've been fiddling with the sag settings and it's getting better as I go. Not only that - but Jamie's been giving me other "free tips" as I go. For the cost and my riding style, I think this is a good option.

Ernie

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I went the DMS route.

Front end was rebuilt by Jamie a few years ago. Ohlins valves and new springs/oil/seals.

Rear has been stock.

I'm trying to figure out how to install a DMS-modded 929 shock now.

For what it's worth, I was on the verge of buying a Elka Stage 3 (used) about a year ago. $850 iirc. Sent Jamie an email asking his opinion, as I'd been very pleased with the front end he built, and his comment was that while a nice shock, you'd need some revalving work to make it really good. For about half the money, a 929 shock picked up nearly all the advantages, and, according to Jamie, would function just as well as the Elka.

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GP Suspension filed for bankruptcy. I believe it is out of business now, but check it out.

I went Ohlins shock and GP respring/revalve. You remember that wallow in the lumpy turns? - a thing of the past!

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Jamie D. rebuilt my 929 rear shock (adapter, springs, and valving). He also set me up with front springs, rebound and compression valves to match the rear. I provided the F3 fork internals for additional adjustability (off eBay for $30). Best money I could've spent on the bike. Dramatic improvements in handling and Jamie was helpful, professional, and spot on with valving and springs for me.

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A lot of customer testimonials for DMS...looks like the 929 is the way to go. Thanks all.

First off the 929 shock is NOT the way to go on a 6th gen!!!! It is ideal for a 5th gen VFR and if you notice everyone commenting here has one on a 5th gen except one who hasn't got it installed on his vtec yet because of clearance issues! .

See post 50 in the 'Vtec Shock options" thread, it is NOT a simple bolt in on the Vtec and Jamie needs to be telling anyone that fact that is asking about a 929 shock on a vtec install and or recommending the F4i shock route!!! :huh:

A CBR F4/F4i shock is a Much better bolt-in shock to have Jamie rebuild for a Vtec.

BR

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A lot of customer testimonials for DMS...looks like the 929 is the way to go. Thanks all.

First off the 929 shock is NOT the way to go on a 6th gen!!!! It is ideal for a 5th gen VFR and if you notice everyone commenting here has one on a 5th gen except one who hasn't got it installed on his vtec yet because of clearance issues! .

See post 50 in the 'Vtec Shock options" thread, it is NOT a simple bolt in on the Vtec and Jamie needs to be telling anyone that fact that is asking about a 929 shock on a vtec install and or recommending the F4i shock route!!! :huh:

A CBR F4/F4i shock is a Much better bolt-in shock to have Jamie rebuild for a Vtec.

BR

Listen to the old man... there's wisdom in those words!!! Plus I've seen his garage, he could open a box and pull out 1 of each type shock and hold them up for comparison!!!

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Had a 929 shock on my 5th gen for a couple years. Definite improvement over stock. Re-sprung both ends when I installed it.

Recently installed a Penske 8987, and an AK20 cartridge kit from Traxxion Dynamics with their custom fork caps so I now have comp & rebound adjustments on the front. Was it worth putting over $2K in suspension on a $3500 bike?

Absofreakinlutely! With just a bit of tweaking from their recommended settings I find myself going much faster with less effort, and more comfort. Best money I've spent on the bike by far.

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A lot of customer testimonials for DMS...looks like the 929 is the way to go. Thanks all.

First off the 929 shock is NOT the way to go on a 6th gen!!!! It is ideal for a 5th gen VFR and if you notice everyone commenting here has one on a 5th gen except one who hasn't got it installed on his vtec yet because of clearance issues! .

See post 50 in the 'Vtec Shock options" thread, it is NOT a simple bolt in on the Vtec and Jamie needs to be telling anyone that fact that is asking about a 929 shock on a vtec install and or recommending the F4i shock route!!! :huh:

A CBR F4/F4i shock is a Much better bolt-in shock to have Jamie rebuild for a Vtec.

BR

Thanks. I do have a 6th Gen. Do you by chance know what Ohlin or Penske shock would be comparable to the F4/F4i? Do the converted shocks last as long a new Ohlin or Penske?

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A lot of customer testimonials for DMS...looks like the 929 is the way to go. Thanks all.

First off the 929 shock is NOT the way to go on a 6th gen!!!! It is ideal for a 5th gen VFR and if you notice everyone commenting here has one on a 5th gen except one who hasn't got it installed on his vtec yet because of clearance issues! .

See post 50 in the 'Vtec Shock options" thread, it is NOT a simple bolt in on the Vtec and Jamie needs to be telling anyone that fact that is asking about a 929 shock on a vtec install and or recommending the F4i shock route!!! :huh:

A CBR F4/F4i shock is a Much better bolt-in shock to have Jamie rebuild for a Vtec.

BR

Thanks. I do have a 6th Gen. Do you by chance know what Ohlin or Penske shock would be comparable to the F4/F4i? Do the converted shocks last as long a new Ohlin or Penske?

IMO the Penske & Ohlins are superior to any revalved Honda shock. I have an Ohlins off a CBR F3 on one Vtec w/a 19kg spring and No valving change required! My penske is off a CBR 900 (I think) w/a 20kg spring, both work great.

Most but not all good aftermarket shocks also have Ride Height adjustment which allowed me to set them to needed VFR lengths w/o mods!

IMO a used Penske or Ohlins stock is better than any revalved stock shock. I found the Ohlins on eBay for $300 and the Penske for $400.

Ohlins claims their stock valving will cover ANY spring you can put on it w/o a re-valve and for street riding I've found this to be true so far. Now if I was Racing and at the top end of my class, having the rear shock (Penske/Ohlins) Re-valved to match the spring would be a good idea, but not needed for most of us on the street.

When looking at a used aftermarket shock for a Vtec be sure it has a hose mounted remote not fixed. Stock Vtec shock length is aprox 12.375" eye to eye.

BR

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Thank you for this info BR. So tough to make sense of all this suspension mod stuff without hands-on practical experience. On a scale of 1 to 10 in mechancal know-how/experience and job difficulty, could you rank the jobs of removing the forks and shock and reinstalling them after the work has been done?

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Listen to the old man... there's wisdom in those words!!! Plus I've seen his garage, he could open a box and pull out 1 of each type shock and hold them up for comparison!!!

I've seen pictures of his bathroom, he even has shocks in there. Must study them while taking care of business or something. :laugh:

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Thank you for this info BR. So tough to make sense of all this suspension mod stuff without hands-on practical experience. On a scale of 1 to 10 in mechancal know-how/experience and job difficulty, could you rank the jobs of removing the forks and shock and reinstalling them after the work has been done?

A 3 for me, not a lot of issue in doing this job as long as your using shop manual for specs and guidance. BTW i would R&R the forks w/o removing any bodywork unlike the manual. :smile:

A trick for rear shock removal (after it's unbolted) is to remove the rear wheel, then jack up the SSSA which opens up the area at the bottom of the shock area making it Much easier to pull it out.

BR

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