Member Contributer vfeistr Posted July 7, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted July 7, 2012 Hi everyone. Getting started with my mods. First up is Axxion AK-20 fork cartridges by Traxxion Dynamics. These "drop-ins" replace all the stock internals. Preload remains adjustable, rebound damping is adjustable (with their caps) and compression damping is set by them according to your weight and intended riding style. I posted lots of pics because I like them when I'm doing a project. Forks removed, cartridge/springs/caps in bin. Loosen, but don't remove the fork caps while the forks are on the bike Unscrew the cap and extend the cap/rod. Loosen the locknut Remove cap Pour out oil and spring/washers. Pump damper rod to help expel oil Remove bolt, crush washer from bottom of fork. One of these was easy, one was stubborn. I used a heat gun (didn't help), then struck it with a centerpunch to get it to move. I used a pipe to get leverage on this tiny wrench Remove the stock cartridge. Remove the dust seal and retaining ring. Separate the slider from the stanchion by banging the oil seal a few times as you pull them apart. It's installed in the slider and you're banging it against the top bushing/back-up ring to free it. Inspect the bushings. they should have a Teflon coating (little on no metal showing) on their sliding surfaces. The copper surface on the smaller bushing above is normal; the Teflon coating is on the inside. My crush washers looked pretty beat. I talked to Traxxion Dynamics and Mike said to replace them or heat until red hot and flatten them. I didn't have new ones around so I flattened them and flipped em over. (No leaks after assembly so far) The instructions say to "file four notches in oil-lock ring" . I thought they meant the silver OEM caps that honda calls "oil lock pieces", but they don't fit the Axxion cartridges. Another call to TD solved this. The oil-lock pieces don't fit because they aren't used. The oil-lock rings are inside the bottom of the forks. They're not removable and rattle around a bit inside. The notches are cut with a file "to improve oil flow". Clean everything and reassemble. Bushings, back up washer and (new) oil seal (I used a seal seating tool, some make one out of PVC pipe), retaining ring. Insert cartridge. Install bolt/crush washer from fork bottom, hand threading until you feel the threads engage smoothly, then wrench. The cartridge holding tool is a square pipe that fits into a square cut out on top of the cartridge. There is a hole at the top to insert a screwdriver to keep it from rotating. Tighten the bottom bolt ( I used the one they supplied) and crush washer. "The bolt is “tight” when it will not turn any more when firm force is applied." Don't use thread-lock. Fill fork with oil to the level spec'd by Traxxion Dynamics. Mine was 125mm. Level is measured with springs out/ fork collapsed. Prime the cartridge by working the tube and cartridge rod up and down. Drop in the supplied bottom washer/omni spring. Thread the lock nut all the way on. This picture was taken AFTER measuring the oil level and THEN inserting the spring/bottom washer. (Traxxion parts order: cartridge, spring, bottom washer, Omni buffer, top washer, preload spacer) The rod holding tool is in place. Place the omni buffer/top washer and preload spacer over this, using the cartridge rod holding tool (knurled outside/internally threaded) to keep the rod extended. Now you have to compress the buffer/washers/spring and get a notched shim tool between the omni buffer tube/top washer and the lock nut. The Traxxion compression tool and shim are quite handy here. I made one out of PVC pipe and two screw drivers for my only previous fork project, but TD's is much easier. You have to compress pretty hard. If you are reinstalling the OEM cartridge, you won't need this. This is what you end up with. Pre-set the cap -back it out all the way, then three turns in- and screw it on until snug. Tighten the lock washer to the cap. Remove the Compression tool/shim and check to see if you have about three turns of +/- adjustment, i.e. you didn't inadvertently turn the adjuster while assembling. Screw the fork cap into the fork tube. Torque it when you get it on the bike. Replace fork guards and dust seals if you haven't already. The Traxxion omni buffers are not really visible in these pictures. They look like black nylon tent stakes. They go inside the springs and below the preload spacers. The top of one with the top and bottom washers is seen here: Again, they do not go inside the preload spacers on the bike.(spring,washer,buffer pointing down into spring,washer,preload spacer,cap) Hope this is helpful. Let me know if I missed anything or something in here doesn't seem right. vfeistr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Very nice write-up, thanks for sharing. Will be waiting for ride results also! BR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 9, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2012 If you get bored this winter I would gladly send you two more to do. And of course pay you. Great write up. WOW just a quote for the kit $1000 bucks. The next question was is it worth it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 WOW just a quote for the kit $1000 bucks. Don't forget the adjustable caps are another $150 too if you want those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted July 9, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2012 next time.. undo the bolt at bottom of the fork 1st.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 9, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2012 I'm thinkin group purchase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfeistr Posted July 10, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2012 Will be waiting for ride results also! BR WOW just a quote for the kit $1000 bucks. The next question was is it worth it ? I haven't ridden on them yet... it's still stripped down for some other things I'm working on. Also waiting for a Penske . Yeah, they're pricey, but worth it? I hope so. Depends how it feels to me. I've been reading some of your suspension threads, trying to soak it all in. I don't know much about suspension tuning, but I get how to adjust the sags. Traction Dynamics is setting me up with 1.0 springs and a Hyperco 6x1200 on the rear. From what you guys have posted, I'm guessing this will be on the high side for my weight. 170 lbs without gear. I think I'll call them and ask how they came up with it. Maybe buy a book, too. I did tell them I'll be riding it on the track a couple times a year.... We're in Ohio today for more roller coasters at Cedar Point! vfeistr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT1 Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 Bringing this thread back to life... Great post. Fork and shock mods are on my to-do list this winter. Any comments on the results? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallican525 Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted December 29, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted December 29, 2012 I've just installed the AK-20 (2 weeks ago) in my 2010 VFR800 and followed this write up to supplement the included instructions. Much more detailed than the instructions that came with the kit, but you could get away with just the included sheet if you have done this type of work before. Must say that the AK-20's in the front and an Ohlins on the rear has transformed the bike completely. Once I got the spring rates right for my weight, I started tuning the comp/rebound and have it pretty close now. Our roads in New Zealand are pretty bad so I have it set softer than some people would, but it is just soooo different to the original bike. Chalk and cheese! Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfeistr Posted May 20, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2013 I've been away from this forum for quite a while working on another bike and just being too lazy to post. I agree with Phil that the VFR is transformed by a good front/rear suspension. It soaks up whatever the marginal back roads in eastern NC throw at it and tracks great. Lots of options to achieve this out there. Initially, the front/rear balance was off, but now it's dialed in pretty well after changing some sticky fork seals, 0.95 springs in the front and a 6" x 1250 lb/in (2.25 ID) on the Penske rear. Traxxion says this is unusual and stands by their 1.0/1200 set-up, but the numbers and the bike don't lie. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2013 Can ask how much you weight ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Can ask how much you weight ? See post #7 - 170 lbs. Seems too stiff on both ends to me for that weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2013 That what I was trying to alltude to .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Traxxion says this is unusual and stands by their 1.0/1200 set-up, but the numbers and the bike don't lie. So what are your sag numbers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2013 Traxxion says this is unusual and stands by their 1.0/1200 set-up, but the numbers and the bike don't lie. So what are your sag numbers? I think he just teases us for a month or two .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted May 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2013 Traxxion does to seem to be a little stiffer on their suggested spring weights than some others but they quote the VFR800 as a 550 lb bike and they say the srpings just to support that weight (no rider) start around .90 front and 1100-1150 rear. For those of you asking if the AK20 cartridges are worth $1,000 you need to ask yourself if it would be worth it for you to have the ability to pull that cartridge and move it to a new bike (or another set of forks) when you change bikes. That is one of the intangibles about the cartridge inserts compared to just revalving and respinging a stock fork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2013 Once again I scream GROUP BUY do you think Traxxion can support us ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 For those of you asking if the AK20 cartridges are worth $1,000 you need to ask yourself if it would be worth it for you to have the ability to pull that cartridge and move it to a new bike (or another set of forks) when you change bikes. That is one of the intangibles about the cartridge inserts compared to just revalving and respinging a stock fork. Of course you could buy 3-4 sets of valves for the cost of the $1,150 cartridges, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted May 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2013 For those of you asking if the AK20 cartridges are worth $1,000 you need to ask yourself if it would be worth it for you to have the ability to pull that cartridge and move it to a new bike (or another set of forks) when you change bikes. That is one of the intangibles about the cartridge inserts compared to just revalving and respinging a stock fork. Of course you could buy 3-4 sets of valves for the cost of the $1,150 cartridges, right? Says the man who has AK-20s in his VFR...even though you inherited them when you bought the bike. What is your opinion of them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Says the man who has AK-20s in his VFR...even though you inherited them when you bought the bike. What is your opinion of them? Actually I did buy them and put them on my bike........just got them second hand. So here are my thoughts. The bike has never felt like I thought it should/would for having over $2k worth of suspension components. I think most of that was the mis-sprung Wilbers shock that was supposed to be custom built for me (same issues you had). The second part was probably soft springs on the front for my weight and an oil level that was probably too high (told to me by Traxxion when I replaced the fork seals). Earlier this year, I had JD rebuild both ends. It feels much better, although still not where I think it should be. I think both ends need tweeking still and I haven't had the time to play with all of the screws yet. I'm thinking someone that really knows what they are doing that is around my weight could have it sorted out in a short ride. I'm just not skilled enough to do it without going through hours of riding, testing, and a learning curve on what to turn, how much to turn it, and in what direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted May 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted May 20, 2013 Once sag is set just got to keep track of all the settings. Try moving one thing at a time and write it down. If it gets worse go back the other way. Better, go another click or turn or whatever. To start, you want both ends to compress and rebound at the same rate. On rebound, it should come up to resting height but without going higher first and settling. Those are what you see the track side guys doing pressing down on the bike and letting it come back up. I no expert! Just watch and occasionally listen when things are going on near me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfeistr Posted May 21, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 21, 2013 "I think he just teases us for a month or two .." No tease, I forgot what they were so I had to measure again. Can ask how much you weight ? "See post #7 - 170 lbs." 175 without gear as of today "Seems too stiff on both ends to me for that weight" You would think so, but my numbers are Front Free sag 28 mm Rider sag 39 mm Rear Free sag 10 mm Rider sag 28 mm Rebound and rear compression settings are close to the middle, not sure the number of clicks. The front compression screw doesn't seem to need much turning in at all. Sorry for being so technical, and yeah, I should keep a record. Get out and ride! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 "Seems too stiff on both ends to me for that weight" You would think so, but my numbers are Front Free sag 28 mm Rider sag 39 mm Rear Free sag 10 mm Rider sag 28 mm Rear still seems too stiff for the street. I would think you want to be around 35 mm rider and 7 mm free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 22, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2013 Any feed back after riding with the changes ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.