Jump to content

surging lights


Recommended Posts

  • Member Contributer

cut some tendons in the hand so have some time play with the bike.....sucks balls 10-12 weeks

question...what needs replacing

at idle , lights are dim,,,giving throttle they brighten up.

sorry about the post ..one finger typer

post-23084-0-77703100-1336527263.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Sucks for sure. Looks like you're giving the finger to the x-ray.

And sorry, can't help you with your electrical problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

carpel tunnel release?

i had mine a year ago.. only took 1 week to heal.. unless you had your palm cut open ..it wont talk 10 weeks.

read "NOT A ZOMBIE YET" here on vfrd

lights.. your R/R is dying.. replace it :fing02:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

My lights have always dimmed slightly while sitting at idle >>>slightly<<<. However, just before my R/R burned itself up, my lights and gauges went bananas for about 15 minutes but that was much more than what I would call "dimming".

On the injury issue, I've been off of my VFR for two weeks as of this past Sunday due to a serious bout with vertigo and a demanding wife that prescribed No Riding for one additional week after symptoms subsided. I'm off tomorrow and "home alone" so I'll be back on the bike for a lunch ride and can't wait. 10 weeks would be brutal. Best wishes!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

the hand was table saw vs. hand.......i lost! going bananas sitting around. open the pool today and babysitting.6 weeks in cast 4 week physio.

wanna get the bike 100% ready waiting for me

upgraded shock from jamie....excited

have a new r/r will replace and eventually do VRossi technique to keep cool

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Agreed, R/R. Had the same symptoms and upgraded to the R1 mod with new connectors all around. Make sure to check the output of your startor and all the connections in between (and replace if possible).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

here's some great info about the R/R. I bought the connectors from the guy in Japan mentioned on this site.

http://www.triumphra...or-upgrade.html

That Triumph thread is the one that got me thinking about a redo of my charging system. I just reread it and its still a great thread.

- General notes -- the FH012AA R/R is replaced by FH020AA, its just the latest model.

- Eastern Beaver has some great stuff, but if your order is under 100 bucks, shipping is 20 bucks. (ouch) There are US suppliers for cheaper.

- Dont forget our own VFR electric guy - tightwad -- www.wiremybike.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I don't think the R/R can be immediately pinpointed. I would perform the full electrosport fault finding process becuase it could well be the stator which is weak rather than the R/R about to fry itself.

*Some* amount of brightening is normal; in fact many owners manuals state that the lights should increase in brightness a little off idle because 14.7 volts may not be possible until, say, 2,000rpm. Under that it may only generate 13 volts or so, which is still enough to charge the battery. However as with any bulb if you increase the volts you increase the brightness so the jump from 13 volts to 14.7 volts can be seen.

Essentially you should hook up a multimeter and watch the voltages. If the voltage is over 13.2 volts when the lights are dim, and peak at about 14.5-14.7 volts when they're bright there is nothing wrong with your bike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

^^^ +1 - I'm with you on grabing a multimeter and checking voltages, may as well check it with data..

- my old 4th gen did the "dim" light at idle and "super bright" thing at revs when the R/R crapped out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • Member Contributer

burnt wire

well i'm back....cast came off this week and went for my first 200 kms. it was sore and was tough pulling in clutch. till now have been tinkering with the bike , replacing r/r cleaning etc.

lately started running bad. white smoke from exhaust, would not stay running at idle. in the gas tank is still the same gas from storage for the winter.

after the 200 kms ride ran way better even at idle.

im thinking carb leaked some gas in one cylinder and soaked the plug...or just bad gas.

also will be relocating the r/r to VROSSI technique ..on the rear tire guard with a heat sink ....and found some burnt out wires

will the vfrness take care of that and where do i purchase

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

found some burnt out wires

will the vfrness take care of that and where do i purchase

No the VFRness won't fix those wires there. They need fixing up, but it's such a low res image I can't tell what I'm looking at - the main fuel cut relay perhaps?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

look up wiremybike.com, he sells the vfrness & quite a bit of other stuff, one of which is a kit to fix your wiring @ that start solenoid mess. just bought one for my '95.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

on another topic, just recieved an order from eastern beaver. had to get a few extras I didn't really need to bring the total up to minimum (US $20-ish), shipped air mail for approx. $5-6 & arrived from Japan in only a relatively few days, perhaps a week or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

just came from another big ride ...running good but slight miss and will not stay running at light after 1 min....will change battery, the try idle adjust...

the melting is the starter relay at the battery 30a fuse connection

trying to identify part number

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bikebandit has it listed as #639070 and they sell it for $85.18. Or you can search "Honda vfr750r starter relay" on eBay and get one for under $20. That's what I did.

I had the same symptoms, bike would die randomly at lights, melted harness on starter relay, lights flickered. I replaced the battery, the problems didn't resolve out.

Ended up replacing the R/R with a R1 version, found cables at wiremybike.com and Easternbeaver.com. For about $200 I have new R/R, starter relay, battery (replaced when my new one burned up) and cables.

Easy job overall. Took longer to figure out where to buy this stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I had the same issues you described, did a full check and everything was good, I did the R1 R&R upgrade and a weather pac connection for the stator, but I still have a slight volt drop at idle, but it is better than it was.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.