Member Contributer realistdreamer Posted March 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2012 Decided I don't want to tackle the stator myself. Other than the actual stator, what's on the parts list to get so the mechanic has the best of everything he needs? (BTW, I did search and couldn't cobble together a comprehensive list or determine whether a flywheel was needed on a 2000) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthshake Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 A new stator cover gasket. You'll lose a teaspoon of oil but that shouldn't matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2012 if you can put your pants on and ties your shoes. you can change a stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer realistdreamer Posted March 27, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2012 if you can put your pants on and ties your shoes. you can change a stator. There are many things I can do I have no desire to do. I believe in becoming one with my bike, but I'll take it slow and get to know her over time. At this point, I have spent over 40 hours on mods in the last 45 days and I'm happy to let someone else do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2012 changing the stator requires an allen key and a new stator.. and a gasket or gasket maker permatext. remove lower plastic.. unplug stator.. remove the engines left side round cover. remove stator from cover ( 4 bolts) install new stator.. apply permatex.. to old gasket or get new gasket.. install cover. plug in stator . install lower .. go riding.. you can do it in 20 min Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer realistdreamer Posted March 27, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2012 changing the stator requires an allen key and a new stator.. and a gasket or gasket maker permatext. remove lower plastic.. unplug stator.. remove the engines left side round cover. remove stator from cover ( 4 bolts) install new stator.. apply permatex.. to old gasket or get new gasket.. install cover. plug in stator . install lower .. go riding.. you can do it in 20 min I like 20 minutes. I don't want to screw it up. I essentially just want to ride. But, I'm cheap enough to consider. So far I read two things that folks have complained about. Installing metal clip from original on wiring of Rick's R/R to replace a nylon tie (some have left the nylon, but not sure on this) Routing the wiring to the other side of the bike without removing airbox, which I assume means taking off the gas tank Have you done this? With a R/R from Ricks? Also, is there any screwing with the flywheel necessary? I saw some say they replaced it, but I think that was a 6th gen. I have a 2000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthshake Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 You don't have to mess with the flywheel. However, due to the magnets in the stator it will feel as if the stator cover is stuck, it's not really. Just keep that in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2012 Trace the wires from the stator to the plug to harness... found it??? Can you get to it with out taking apart the bike? If yes.. replace that stator! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted March 28, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 28, 2012 changing the stator requires an allen key and a new stator.. and a gasket or gasket maker permatext. remove lower plastic.. unplug stator.. remove the engines left side round cover. remove stator from cover ( 4 bolts) install new stator.. apply permatex.. to old gasket or get new gasket.. install cover. plug in stator . install lower .. go riding.. you can do it in 20 min I like 20 minutes. I don't want to screw it up. I essentially just want to ride. But, I'm cheap enough to consider. So far I read two things that folks have complained about. Installing metal clip from original on wiring of Rick's R/R to replace a nylon tie (some have left the nylon, but not sure on this) Routing the wiring to the other side of the bike without removing airbox, which I assume means taking off the gas tank Have you done this? With a R/R from Ricks? Also, is there any screwing with the flywheel necessary? I saw some say they replaced it, but I think that was a 6th gen. I have a 2000. If you're still considering DIY, 2 things that helped me were that 1. I got 2 6mm bolts about 3" long and cut the heads off, putting them in place of two of the OEM cover bolts 180 degrees from each other. That forces the cover to go on straight as the magnets want to pull it off center. The second was I had a helper hold the cover while I removed the 4 bolts that retain the stator to the inside of the cover. It was difficult to hold the cover with one hand while breaking the bolts loose with the other. I replaced the R/R on my '99 with a Rick's, and it just plugged right in. I think the wiring crossover you're referencing is on a 6th gen where the R/R is on the opposite side of the frame as the stator. On yours the R/R is on the same side, so it's very easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer realistdreamer Posted March 28, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 28, 2012 OK now I'm really confused. On my bike (2000) the stator is on the right and the R/R is on the left. Am I missing something??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 The clutch is on the right side, the Stator is on the left side. On the 2002+ bikes the R/R is on the right side creating the need to fish the wires across the motor rather blind. It shouldn't be an issue with your bike...I like the suggestion of using 2 long 6mm bolts as alignment pins as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer realistdreamer Posted March 28, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 28, 2012 Thanks. I guess I'll give it a try. If I screw it up I'll be back here for suggestions. Otherwise, I'll have pictures for the next newbie with questions. This is more adventurous that I was on my last bike, but I'm game. Will I need to cut the heads of the 6mm bolts? Don't think I have a tool (other than a new blade for my hacksaw) for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 The 6mm bolts to line it up, although being handy, completely un-necessary, if you're stronger than a 12 year old boy then you won't have any time setting it on the dowels and then putting your bolts in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer realistdreamer Posted April 6, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 6, 2012 Got my stator and R/R from Ricks. The Shop Manual says I need some sealant for the wire grommet that looks to connect the wiring to the stator. Any suggestions on the type of sealant? Also, do I need to get a torque wrench? The torque specs are 12 N-m or 9 ft/lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted April 6, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted April 6, 2012 For sealant, go to any auto store and get gasket maker high temp sealant. I used silver one. You'll need a tiny bit of it. Torque wrench I wouldn't use. Just use a 1/4 drive ratchet and hand-tighten it keeping in mind that that block is aluminum and not too much torque in needed - One hand on the wrench only. If the torque wrench is wrong, you'll be screwed. (NPI ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suitcase Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Torque wrench is a good idea..in that all fasteners will have equal tension...and if using a torque wrench tighten in increments...such as 30% of final spec...reset to 60% and then a final round at spec'd torque setting. Everybody has a different feel for "hand tightness" which is why mechanical engineering has come to setting torque specs. Its no big deal to acquire a 3/8" drive wrench shich should allow sufficient range for use on yer bike for years to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 unless you really have a highend torque wrench for low torque settings , id hand tighten, seen to many horor stories here who stripped the aluminum threads. or even do 7ftlbs, and recheck by hand, personally i wouldnt torque it, by wrench. A new gasket defintely, the black high temp permatex is great for this and the right color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suitcase Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 I have heard of and seen an equal number of assembly problems related to over/under tightened fasteners and the relative of that is unequally tightened fasteners. Engine hot and cold cycles combined with vibrations will increase the incident fastener failure. Put another way... would you trust Mother Honda for reliability if the bikes ( especialy the engines) they assembled were done with hand estimated torque settings? I know I wouldnt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 If you've done any assembly work at all, i dont think hand torquing less than 10 ft lb is very hard for an average field tech. The problem may lay in vfrer's who are desk jockeys and have no clue, and have to rely on a torque wrench which may or may not be very accurate at sub 10ftlb settings. If it is not accurate, and your bolt strips out with aluminum threads attached, then you'll undestand the warning. As far as higher torque settings, its far less an issue. case bolts however are fragile to being over torqued and stripped. Brake caliper bolts, oil plug, engine bolts, swingarm, sprocket, chain cam adjustment, by all means torque them to spec. Where I really EEK!, are the ones whove stripped out their Cam journal blocks , they are also low torque settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suitcase Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Further to this thread jacking event...the TOOLS Debate. The term "hand tightened" is lots of fun to consider. A 170lb. desk jockey V a 255lb. athletic type or a seasoned mechanic V a newbie/novice. Calibration of your torque tool by a shop with standardized equipment is cheap and quick and essentialy resolves the torquey issue. When you finish using your torque tool. back it off to zero (relax internal spring) and treat the tool with respect and you get accuracy Then there is the issue of lubrication or not. Snick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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