Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 13, 2012 Update time!!! Over the weekend I found time to get the carbs and the heads off. it Is absolutely amazing to me just how cool the motors are on the inside. It's also amazing that this motor has close to 70,000 miles on it and it is showing zero signs of wear. I have yet to check the valve clearance but the gears are still sharp and perfect... I'm in awe. A true testament to just how bulletproof these VFRs are. I may mor may not have forgotten which way to turn bolts to loosen them during the removal process... Righty loosey right? These little bolt removers from lowes, along with a carbide tipped masonry bit made very short work of getting the broken, grade 10 bolts out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 13, 2012 I'm thinking about throwing a coat of paint on the motor before starting to reassemble everything. I am probably going to go either cast aluminum silver or a nice black. Dupli-Color has an engine paint with ceramic in it and VHT has multiple engine enamel choices as well. Who has painted their V-Four? What was the result and how did it last? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I painted mine with engine paint silver but i havnt ran it so its not been baked on. Ill probably soda blast it and repaint it with a two part epoxy based paint. The valve covers i painted black got all flakey and looked like ass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 21, 2012 I've ordered a VF750C oil pump to try and bypass and block off the oil cooler. Has anyone tried this mod before? Or am I blazing a trail here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I havnt installed it but it will work fine. Just block off the external cooler ports and leave out the little tubes that go to them. Vf750c and vfr = same engine block (casting and some machining at least), same oil pan, same pickup tube, same oil feed tube, same water pump, ect. You could theoreticlly use the vf750c sprocket cover and pushrod for a cable clutch conversion (but you lose the speedo pickup). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Well im wrong about the oil pan being the same, but i can assure you that the pump will bolt right in. Ill do it on my empty case and post pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 And upon further inspection the only difference between the vf and vfr pan is drain bolt location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 You could theoreticlly use the vf750c sprocket cover and pushrod for a cable clutch conversion (but you lose the speedo pickup). This sounds interesting!! Can you post a pic of the VF750c item up please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kostritzer Posted March 22, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2012 You could theoreticlly use the vf750c sprocket cover and pushrod for a cable clutch conversion (but you lose the speedo pickup). This sounds interesting!! Can you post a pic of the VF750c item up please? Oooooh! +1 to that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kostritzer Posted March 22, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2012 Wait, didn't the VF's have a hydraulic clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 He's talking about the Magna Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 No they are cable. But the vf cover is all chrome and stupid looking. If someone were to dechrone it and possibly trim it down a bit it might look better on a vfr. Plus the cable holder bolts to either the block mount or the head i cant remember. But i think it has to be in between the engine and the frame. Ill hafta look at my buddys bike again to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Here's a 1995 VF750C sprocket cover that shows the cable attachment point, and looking at the pics of the inside of it, it would indeed be close to a bolt-on, you might even be able to add a hole to incorporate the speedo drive unit. Definitely worth further investigation. http://www.ebay.com....=item53e75f4a39 Apologies to OP for thread hijack! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 23, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 23, 2012 Why would you want to get rid of the hydraulic clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 When I first read about cable clutch conversions (done by Durbahn in Germany) I thought the same thing - the reason is that a cable clutch gives vastly superior feel over a hydraulic clutch. In addition you lose the extra weight of the hydraulic bits. Durbahn's conversion kit for VFRs is beautifully made, but quite expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kostritzer Posted March 23, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 23, 2012 Didn't notice the "C" on the end of VF750. May have to look into this, I'd love to get rid of the hydraulic clutch on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 It would look really out of place tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted March 24, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2012 How about a simple trim of what you have already?... I prefer the reliability of the current hydraulic set up. Here is a magnesium RC item fitted to a 4th gen- Our 3/4th gens ones are basically the same, trim away - if you dont need your speedo drive obviously. GPS from a mobile for a speedo works well if the bike goes on the public roads. With only revs and oil temp on dash a mobile sits fine with Velcro on dash (thanks to NASA lol) But its never on, no upper speed limits here. Preferred over any magnet/wheel set up ive ever used - which has never really worked anyway. The water pump will be history soon ......electric replacement ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kostritzer Posted March 24, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2012 Hey kgs, are you running a fuel pump on your bike or is it gravity fed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted March 24, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2012 Pump right now. standard tank. Its the white elephant. With RC tanks costing the price of a small country. not too fussed... Am not trying to build an rc copy... no ty. More about using wot we got first. New battery weights the same as the pump/filter give or take 30g so be nice to get rid. But thats coupled with tank at the moment. Would drilling a breather hole in top of tank work for gravity fed? might consider chucking pump then..but i guess there may be tap or carb flooding issues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 I've been running gravity feed with the factory unmodified tank for some time. Fuel pump on these bikes is useless, just one more thing to fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kostritzer Posted March 24, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2012 I've been running gravity feed with the factory unmodified tank for some time. Fuel pump on these bikes is useless, just one more thing to fail. Have you run your bike at the track? Just wondering if its an issue under hard cornering/braking etc. I'm pretty sure the tank is vented already, so I don't think an additional breather is necessary. I can't imagine there being a flooding issue whilst the bike is running with gravity feed. I know there have been issues with NC30 taps leaking when the bike has been sitting causing flooding and eventually engine damage(from fuel filling up the sump), don't know if that would be an issue with the 750 tap though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 24, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2012 So... I have been hunting for a decent gauge set that will work well with most of the factory wiring and isn't ginormous since I'll be running this with no fairings. It seems I have two choices: The Trail Tech Vapor, which I'm not really a fan of... Or there's the Koso gauges which I like but are pricey... So, I am thinking of ripping apart one of the gauge sets I currently have from the VFR and reorganizing them into a nice compact little set that will definitely work with the factory wiring. Here's the layout I think I'm going to go with. it's much more compact that the stock gauges. I do think I will make a much smaller version for the fuel and temp gauge as well and figure out a nice spot to mount them as well. Has anyone done anything like this on here before? I did a search and went through about 8 pages of search results with no luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted March 24, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2012 I've been running gravity feed with the factory unmodified tank for some time. Fuel pump on these bikes is useless, just one more thing to fail. Thats promising.. might have to take u up on it.... Remember my spanner telling me the pump was just for safety shut off in the event of something happening, that was some years ago? But then remember a thread here was mentioning fuel pressure and scavenging fuel from tank when low?? Handy also? Have similar questions about extreme braking on track etc? Will be right back on that power and want good fuel availability? Bike in rebuild mode now with a new rear ally sub frame .. the rear is not plumbed in yet as im to finish a carbon nose fit. Dont want to change pump and COPs at same time... Unless am gonna stick me neck out... Na just decided, pump first test- with normal coils COPs maybe after..they are here and ready once basics are plumb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kostritzer Posted March 24, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2012 I've been running gravity feed with the factory unmodified tank for some time. Fuel pump on these bikes is useless, just one more thing to fail. Thats promising.. might have to take u up on it.... Remember my spanner telling me the pump was just for safety shut off in the event of something happening, that was some years ago? But then remember a thread here was mentioning fuel pressure and scavenging fuel from tank when low?? Handy also? Have similar questions about extreme braking on track etc? Will be right back on that power and want good fuel availability? Bike in rebuild mode now with a new rear ally sub frame .. the rear is not plumbed in yet as im to finish a carbon nose fit. Dont want to change pump and COPs at same time... Unless am gonna stick me neck out... Na just decided, pump first test- with normal coils COPs maybe after..they are here and ready once basics are plumb. You really need to do up a thread on your bike KGS, one of my favorites on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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