Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 8, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2012 vf pump next to vfr pump. retains the water pump drive.. the vf case is the same as a vfr but machined for a cam chain not a gear drive. *edit* vf pump is on the right, vfr on the left. U can see the non-machined holes in the vf pump. Ok... So is this as easy as dropping the oil pan and replacing the pump? Did you do this in conjunction with the cooler on the filter? And what year oil pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 I have yet to actually install the pump. The ngine is in mynstorage unit right now lol. I have, however, placed them side by side andnmeasured all pertinent dimensions and they are identical. The 750c uses our block with a little less machining done to it. Both feed pumps are dimensionally the same. Yes, i will be doing this in conjunction with the sandwich cooler. I have pondered lowering the sprocket ratio on it so the oil pump (and coincidentally the water pump) spin faster so i dont have to try and find a damn rc30 pump for it but it might not even be necessary. There was concern with someone inwas speaking with that the vfr pump might not flow enough. Real life trials willprove or disprove this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 I believe that pump was a 96 but check the pictures first. Youll be able to tell right away if it is right or wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Also, you MiGHT have to remove the clutch to change it. The chain may not be very forgiving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kostritzer Posted March 8, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2012 So are you planning on riding this bike on the road, or is this to be a track only bike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2012 So are you planning on riding this bike on the road, or is this to be a track only bike? All road riding... I doubt I'll ever get away to the track, although it would be lots of fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2012 Got some cleaning done tonight. What a nasty mess! This is looking a whole lot better... Not all the way clean but it's pretty impressive what some degreaser, some brake cleaner and some engine bright can do! The cylinder head covers looked like they were painted black before... Now they just need some sandblasting then a nice happy coat of crinkle paint. I had no idea the plastic guard between the disc and the sprocket was white! I found this when I was cleaning... It looks like the chain dug into the swingarm at some point. I'll have to look at it closely when input it back together. I loosened the clamps on all four carb boots and gave them a tug, but couldn't get them off. I'll have to do some searching for tip and tricks on getting them off. I am planning to pull the heads too, is it a problem to take the off with the heads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 you should really replace those boots. when i bought them i spent less than 50 bux for all 4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2012 you should really replace those boots. when i bought them i spent less than 50 bux for all 4. Sounds like a good plan... Got a good source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 If the sawing into the swingarm isn't too bad, you may just get by with a new rubber chain guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 My source was a local pArts shop lol. I donT know where they ordered them from tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 wow, what a difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2012 My source was a local pArts shop lol. I donT know where they ordered them from tho. Found em on eBay last night for about $50... They're new but hopefully they haven't been sitting on a shelf for the last 18 years. wow, what a difference! Thanks! I'm pretty excited about the progress so far. The Engine Brite probably made the most difference... The problem was getting the motor out of the garage into the driveway so I could rinse it after spraying it down. That suckers heavy! I checked Jamie Daugherty's instructions on removing the carbs found here: http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/howto/Carbs/carbs.html His instructions are good, but prying the carbs out relies on the motor being in the frame and obviously mine is out. I'm planning to pull the heads just to give them a good look and swap out the gaskets with the new ones that are coming in my full gasket kit. So I guess I can pull the carbs when I am pulling out the heads. Now that everything is clean, I can see that the clutch cover has been sealed with RTV crap... Is this standard? Seems like it could make a huge mess inside that could have undesirable results. I'm hoping there's a gasket for this so I don't have to mess with the goop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Now that everything is clean, I can see that the clutch cover has been sealed with RTV crap... Is this standard? Seems like it could make a huge mess inside that could have undesirable results. I'm hoping there's a gasket for this so I don't have to mess with the goop. There's definitely a gasket that goes there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 +1. Also, if you go sans gasket you might have starter gear binding issues. Best way ive found to put them on is spray adhesive to one side so it stays on the cover and lightly grease the other side so it doesnt stick to the block (but will still seal) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I'll put rtv around certain areas (mostly around the mounting 'pin' holes) to help hold the gasket in place. Otherwise, put it on, and torque to spec in an X pattern. I personally do a 2 stage torque, but that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 10, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2012 Ok, so I was perusing the service manual yesterday and came across the oil flow diagram. If I am reading this correctly it looks to me like simply blocking off the oil cooler lines shouldn't affect the oil flow through the rest of the engine. I marked the block on points on the diagram in orange... Am I totally off base here or is this is legitimate theory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 you cant just block them off. there is still a pump that will be turning in there, and whatever it pumps will be sent out of the relief valve. which is a really good way to heat up the oil. just swap the pump youll be better off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitrousva Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 From what it looks like, if you block off the oil cooler, you may get extra oil pressure to the rest of the system. That could be a good thing, but it could also be very bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2012 From what it looks like, if you block off the oil cooler, you may get extra oil pressure to the rest of the system. Good point... That could be a good thing, but it could also be very bad. Hard to be wrong when you take both sides! Good strategy I'm watching a VF750 pump on the eBay... we shall see. I am also planning to put a belly pan on this bike, so simply running a hose from the output to the input on the oil cooler loop would not be a huge deal for me as it will be covered. I wonder if I will run into over pressurization with that method as well... has anyone done either of these mods to the oil cooler? what was the result? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Coolers get looped all the time w no adverse effects. Vf750c has none and they do just fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 From what it looks like, if you block off the oil cooler, you may get extra oil pressure to the rest of the system. That could be a good thing, but it could also be very bad. False. The relief valve controls this and f anything would just be dumping out extra oil. But sincebthe cooler isnt looping back into the primary feed then that wont happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2012 From what it looks like, if you block off the oil cooler, you may get extra oil pressure to the rest of the system. That could be a good thing, but it could also be very bad. False. The relief valve controls this and f anything would just be dumping out extra oil. But sincebthe cooler isnt looping back into the primary feed then that wont happen. So you're saying blocking of the cooler in and out should have no adverse affect on the pump or the oil distribution through the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyguyeddy Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 no im saying do NOT do that. ;loop them.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer WIN6 Posted March 13, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 13, 2012 As far as the oil cooler is concerned, mine is just relocated low near the inlet and outlet. I did run across someone else with a very similar bike that just had the cooler bypassed. There was a U pipe that went straight (well, bent I guess since it's a U) from one side to the other. He said he'd been riding it that way every day for a year, in Florida. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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