Guest Civilizeddog Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Small problem big headache, trying to pop my 93 carbs back into brand new insulators. I knocked the insulators onto both cylinder heads first, they are rather soft compared to the hard, 18 year old boots they replaced. Now I've placed the carb bank over each respective rubber insulator and have "pre seated" each carb collar but for the life of me I cannot get the carbs to pop into the groove in each of their insulator boots. The cylinder heads are angled at just a few degrees less than the carb bank is on its bracket making the bank itself difficult to get aligned for an easy install. I have heard of people trying different combos, front right and left rear and vice-versa to rock the carbs back in place but it's not working. I'm not a weakling but I'm not the hulk either and right now I'm about all out of elbow grease. Who out there has wrestled this beast and lived to tell the tale? All tips, tricks, and questionable methods welcome. There HAS to be a way to get these puppies on and barking!! Help a brother out, what have you done to get your carbs seated without breaking anything in the process? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 I'm having the same problem with my 83.. i've spent probably 3-5 hours so far just trying to get the carbs in without losing springs, and getting them lined up with the air intake box.... just about to lose my mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sa1713 Posted March 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2012 Here is what I have done in the past: 1. Mount the forward two boots on the carb body 2. Remove the rear two boots from both the intake and carb bodies 3. Rest these boots over the intakes with about half hanging off towards the rear of the intakes, off center to the rear 4. Gently begin to align the front boots with the intakes and at the same time line up the carb bodies with the rear boots, catching the lips of the boots with the bodies 5. Push the front boots onto the intakes and pushing down on the rear as well This has worked for me in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted March 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2012 This isn't my post, but this came up just a few days ago in another thread . . . http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/70199-1986-vf500f-wont-start/ Scroll about 1/3 of the way down the page and there's a side-view photo of carbs going on with this commentary: "On a side note, there is a Factory 'trick' to installing the carburetors. It involves tilting the boots and pushing straight down. It requires only a minimum amount of force preventing any damage to the throttle bodies. It is also very helpful to lubricate the boots and to heat them (slightly) with a heat gun." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CasualSwede Posted March 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2012 I pour a bit of liquid dish soap into one hand, and use a finger to give each boot a wipe on the mounting lip. They usually pop right on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 I'm about to put a video up in the next day or two. I have had to take off the carbs to make adjustments multiple times in the last two weeks and have found a very good way to do it. It has been said already but I will repeat it. Put the front two carb boots all the way onto the engine. Make sure to put a little grease on the carb side of the boot. Make sure that the metal bands are able to slide freely at this point. The back two boots should be resting on the upper lip of the intake so that they are facing almost directly upwards. The trick is to make sure the the back end of the boot stays completely on the engine side of the boot. Once you have that set, put some more grease on it and then heat it up a bit with a heat gun if you have one. That makes things a lot easier. Slide the front into the front boots so that they are almost in but don't push them in just yet. Set the back ones in so the the back part of the lip is just inside the boots while the boots are still on only the back edge of the intake. now for the tricky part... It takes a bit of patience, but what you need to do is slowly wiggle the back straight down into the boot while making sure that the back end stays on the engine side of the boot. It helps to have something such as a screwdriver to keep the back lip down. Continue to push on both sides, making sure each side is going in evenly. It took me two or three tries to get it down but with a bit of patience, it should just pop right in. Feel free to ask any questions if this was confusing. I will put up a video on this thread tomorrow for ya. Then, take the other set, after you have Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 What was suggested to me was the "factory trick" but I could not get that to work for me so I followed another bit of advice. Just don't start banging on anything with a hammer. That won't end well http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/70199-1986-vf500f-wont-start/page__fromsearch__1 (needed a new set of carbs because of my impatience haha) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SamW Posted March 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2012 Get a heat gun out and warm up the rubber. Or use another heat source, don't cook them, but they will take the heat of the engine, so 200 degrees f won't hurt them any. Once they warm up they get a lot more pliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted March 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2012 I've gotten to the point once where I used a pair of ratchet straps. I put the front bank in, and then put a ratchet on each front corner just tight enough that they can't back out all the way. Then I just have to worry about getting the back bank fitted right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Silicone spray works well as lubricant and doesn't hurt the rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2012 oh for gods sake.. doesnt any one READ old posts???? remove boots! place in HOT water aka almost boiling.. place on engine after applying WARM oil on the inside.. fit all boots on engine put oil on the carb too! pop the front carbs in 1st. use 2 wide blade screw drivers ,just inside the rear edge of the boot lip and push the carbs straight down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Yeah I remembered hearing about a method involving ratchet straps but didn't know the whole process. I'm gonna try the dish soap/ oil trick along with the heat gun, thinking I might get lucky with that. @Eamann, looking forward to your vid! @Wera, good pic, I was a big fan of Marco, really liked his style. Gonna give the silicone spray a try first. Thanks to everyone for their input so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcarpfishman Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 oh for gods sake.. doesnt any one READ old posts???? remove boots! place in HOT water aka almost boiling.. place on engine after applying WARM oil on the inside.. fit all boots on engine put oil on the carb too! pop the front carbs in 1st. use 2 wide blade screw drivers ,just inside the rear edge of the boot lip and push the carbs straight down. :+1: I've been there, it's frustrating the first time. Once you figure out the process though, it's cake. I use this method (without heating up the boots) and use the shaft of 2 long skinny screwdrivers as shoe horns and can have the carbs seated in about 30 seconds. If they are being particularly stubborn, I would most definitely heat them up to make them more pliable. Once you figure out how to do it, you will feel like a GOD! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 My camera is currently dead but I am going to try to take and post the video in an hour or so. It's probably going to be a bit dark but hopefully it will work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Holy crap, I heated up the new boots and swabbed the inside with dish soap and then pushed down on the front and rear and felt a very positive pop from the rear left carb (cylinder 1) and looked, it's defiantly in. But the others look like they are in too although i didnt feel that telltale "pop" to convince me. I have a good enough view to see that the metal detent on the carb neck is NOT visible and that the rubber lip on the boot is covering the detent. Am I safe to assume they are all in like they should be? I tried to pull them out just to feel if there was any resistance and although I didn't yank like a madman they didn't budge at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted March 2, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted March 2, 2012 On my '97 - that has the original boots - I use silicone plumbers grease in place of the dish soap. I push the front ones in all the way and the rear ones pop (rock) right in. No boot heating, either. When I first did it I was dreading taking them off because of the horror stories about getting them back on, but between the silicone and 'kind of rocking' them in, no problem at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 I am new to this whole website, but i like it because everyone provides good information. From what ive read on here so far, everything has been correct so i had to sign up. lol. Nyway, 2 days ago i traded for a 1986 vf500r, the guy i got i got it from said the carbs just needed cleaning. He said they had them done, then the tank got rusty and junked up the carbs agin. And he didnt want to pull them off to clean them so he let it sit. Then i got it, ive been building, cutting, and mechanicing stuff all my life, so i dove right into the crabs and took em all apart. Just as i had figured they were all stopped up and ragity lookin. soo i cleaned them to the best of my knowledge and put them all back on, this was the same night i got it so i didnt have a book, or this website to know your spose to put all carbs in at once, i put each carb in one by one. Talk about a headache...ughh!!. I put gas to em and turned the engine over and nothing happened. i waited a second, spayed some starting fluid in it and it fired right up. so i tryed it agin with a little more fluid in hoping that it would pick up off the gas. Well, it did. but only for about 20 to 30 seconds then died. Thats when i found this website and i read that there are little passge ways that need extra attention. soo, i took the carbs back off, took them apart, cleaned them VERY thoughou, and now have them back on the bike, and it wont do anything, it turns over and over n over n over, but it wont star, All pluggs fire, each cylinder has compression, even when i spray starting fluid in it, it just backs fires and keeps turnin over...??? What the hell!!??!!?? I am soooo stumped on what could be the problem, Can somebody plz help me??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Has anyone ever heard or had a bike that would get intake sometimes and not others?? Sticking valves maybe??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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