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I want to get an aftermarket shock......


spaceman

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Once I get the F4i shock on the bike....few questions:

1. Is it ok to use hammer/screwdriver on preload adj ring (I'm a set once, forget kinda guy)?

2. Does clockwise increase, counterclockwise decrease preload?

3. Where are you guys mounting the remote comp. adjuster?

4. Where should the rear shock settings be when I go to set sag (middle of the road)?

Thanks.

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Once I get the F4i shock on the bike....few questions:

1. Is it ok to use hammer/screwdriver on preload adj ring (I'm a set once, forget kinda guy)?

2. Does clockwise increase, counterclockwise decrease preload?

3. Where are you guys mounting the remote comp. adjuster?

4. Where should the rear shock settings be when I go to set sag (middle of the road)?

Thanks.

1. not recommended

2. ??

3. zip tie to subframe rail on left side away from exhaust.

4. depends on sag #'s .. Install, check, then change.

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  • Member Contributer

Once I get the F4i shock on the bike....few questions:

1. Is it ok to use hammer/screwdriver on preload adj ring (I'm a set once, forget kinda guy)?

2. Does clockwise increase, counterclockwise decrease preload?

3. Where are you guys mounting the remote comp. adjuster?

4. Where should the rear shock settings be when I go to set sag (middle of the road)?

Thanks.

3. I used a large stainless hose clamp on the left side on the black steel tubing.

4. With the 1150# spring that Jamie recommended for me I have 0 preload and am getting good sag numbers. (can't remember what they are though)

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Much difference in the 929 compared to the f4i?

They are about the same really, though in stock form the 929 has a bit better internal valving setup. That said, neither are setup for the VFR so a revalve would be suggested. At that point it's just a housing anyway, so the differences are negligible.

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  • 1 year later...

Just an FYI for ppl that might be wondering if upgrading their suspension will do them any good, I have noticed that my tyres aren't cupping since I had my suspension upgraded.

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It is one of the benefits of good suspension tyre wear will improve which extends tyre life. It is the loss of traction that you don't notice & the bouncing of the shock that causes the cupping effect, allot of people will replace a tyre before it is even worn out due to poor response from abnormalities with wear pattern.

If your on a major budget then the rebuilt F4i etc does work & it all depends on price but your still fitting a shock to your bike that is more likely to deteriorate & will need service at more regular intervals than a quality shock. The reason is the bladder design that separates the oil from the nitrogen charge will leak nitrogen out into the oil during use.

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  • 4 weeks later...

My stock shocks ran out of gas....thought of getting Ohlins spring into the stock shock and adding some shims in it. My local suspension specialist recommend it. But the problem is the local Ohlins distributor refuses to sell just the spring. Anyone know where I can order just the Ohlins spring?

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk

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My stock shocks ran out of gas....thought of getting Ohlins spring into the stock shock and adding some shims in it. My local suspension specialist recommend it. But the problem is the local Ohlins distributor refuses to sell just the spring. Anyone know where I can order just the Ohlins spring?

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk

Look on eBay or put an ad in the classifieds here for the spring.

IIRC those who have done the 929 shock upgrade and went with the ohlins spring found out that they have a slightly larger ID than the stockers. Someone custom made a collar with a built in centering sleeve to take up the difference.

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BTW - Ohlins recently released a cheaper less expensive range of shocks, including a model (or models) for the VFR800. I spent about NZ$500 getting my Elka internals replaced with Ohlins parts, and could have instead bought the new "road-sport" Ohlins shock for about NZ$900 or so. (When I bought the Elka for ~NZ$1000, the applicable Ohlins was NZ$1250).

Another 'BTW' - Sonic's spring calculator reckoned 0.95 springs were right for my ~180 pounds weight, and they were awful: OK at ~30mph or above 60mph, but in between, gave my arms a big workout on non-smooth roads. This was after I'd had the forks professionally fettled with Ohlins and Ractech internals. I had to spend some more money having the springs replaced with Ohlins and the damping adjusted to suit.

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Hey wait a minute, you asked this question like A year ago?

http://www.vfrdiscus...-ohlin-springs/

Yes I did...during that time I just got the bike....a year on the rear shocks are totally shot....seriously considering of buying a new Ohlins rear shock (Non TTX) or changing the spring and rebuilding it with and adding the shims. A new Ohlins will cost SGD$1700 and rebuilding it with only cost SGD$300 excluding the Ohlins spring. Expecting the whole rebuild and spring will cost about SGD$500 now thats roughly only 1/3 of the price of a new Ohlins shock.

BTW - Ohlins recently released a cheaper less expensive range of shocks, including a model (or models) for the VFR800. I spent about NZ$500 getting my Elka internals replaced with Ohlins parts, and could have instead bought the new "road-sport" Ohlins shock for about NZ$900 or so. (When I bought the Elka for ~NZ$1000, the applicable Ohlins was NZ$1250).

Another 'BTW' - Sonic's spring calculator reckoned 0.95 springs were right for my ~180 pounds weight, and they were awful: OK at ~30mph or above 60mph, but in between, gave my arms a big workout on non-smooth roads. This was after I'd had the forks professionally fettled with Ohlins and Ractech internals. I had to spend some more money having the springs replaced with Ohlins and the damping adjusted to suit.

Which model is it?

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Which model is it?

That's a good question that the Ohlins website doesn't really seem to answer, at least for the 2000.

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I think the 'economy' model that my suspension guy was talking about is the S46DR1. I wasn't paying too much attention at the time, so unless he said, "Yeah, nah - this shock's not fixable", a replacement wasn't an option (although until we both test-rode the Elkins/Ohlka mutant, we had no ide whether his replacement of all the Elka's internals apart from the compression damping adjuster/bleed screw assembly with Ohlins parts and Ohlins BabyLesbianAfghaniFurSealPenguinWhale oil was actually going to work. Thank Fork it did...

Oh - and it's blardy good! The Elka felt kinda wooden and unresponsive to adjustments, whereas now ANY adjustment I make effects a change in reponsiveness, even preload. And even two-up, with the preload wound on 237 turns, the back end is still responsive. Incroyable! Best UnZud$480 (about US$37.56)I ever spent...

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