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Powercommander for VFR1200f


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looks like the same bolts I used in the exhaust

I ended up dropping the radiator to get to the O2 plugs. Then pulled them off the bike entirely.

The local nuts and bolts shop cut me two 12mm 1.25 bolts to about 1/2" and I slipped them right in.

IMG_2010.jpg

IMG_2011.jpg

Now I just have to take it to the race track and let my dyno guy do his magic. The only thing is, I'd really like to wait for the Z-Bomb or equivalent to come out so we can map 1st and 2nd gears at the same time.

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Taking it to the race track this weekend to have her tuned.

$250 for a custom map at Salt Lake elevation, with all the forseable mods I'm gonna do finished.

Should be interesting. Stay tuned I'll be running zero and stock maps for comparison.

Mods:

Evap/Pair fully removed.

Dan Kyle Block Offs.

K&N filter

LeoVince Factory-R Exhaust

Odometer at roughly 6,700 miles.

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Taking it to the race track this weekend to have her tuned.

$250 for a custom map at Salt Lake elevation, with all the forseable mods I'm gonna do finished.

Should be interesting. Stay tuned I'll be running zero and stock maps for comparison.

Mods:

Evap/Pair fully removed.

Dan Kyle Block Offs.

K&N filter

LeoVince Factory-R Exhaust

Odometer at roughly 6,700 miles.

Dude post your results. I would be very interested in seeing the dyno chart. That should be nice.

Mark

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From a conversation I had on phobe's blog.

I sat down and chatted with my tuner tonight and shot the shit regarding the custom map. In particular how removing the O2 sensors from the bike will affect it. He said that the O2 sensors on motorcycles currently are very poor to begin with and the lambda sensors used in cars and the dyno are much more precise.

Furthermore, the O2 sensors on bikes are only used below 2000 rpm's and at 20% throttle and less (Where emissions are checked). Above those set conditions, it's no longer a closed loop system.

I asked if the bike would continue to modify fuel based on air temp and barometric pressure and he said absolutely. That's actually all done by the MAP sensor which is on the left hand side of our air boxes.

When I was pulling all the PAIR junk off the bike I actually pulled the MAP sensor hose and plugged it. The bike idled fine, but once I gave it gas it died. This now makes sense because idling, it was below 2000k and less than 20% throttle. Once throttle was applied it no longer used the O2 sensor, but switched to the MAP sensor and promptly died.

Just tid-bits of information I thought I'd pass along.

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can you say which hose on the PAIR goes to the map sensor?

From a conversation I had on phobe's blog.

I sat down and chatted with my tuner tonight and shot the shit regarding the custom map. In particular how removing the O2 sensors from the bike will affect it. He said that the O2 sensors on motorcycles currently are very poor to begin with and the lambda sensors used in cars and the dyno are much more precise.

Furthermore, the O2 sensors on bikes are only used below 2000 rpm's and at 20% throttle and less (Where emissions are checked). Above those set conditions, it's no longer a closed loop system.

I asked if the bike would continue to modify fuel based on air temp and barometric pressure and he said absolutely. That's actually all done by the MAP sensor which is on the left hand side of our air boxes.

When I was pulling all the PAIR junk off the bike I actually pulled the MAP sensor hose and plugged it. The bike idled fine, but once I gave it gas it died. This now makes sense because idling, it was below 2000k and less than 20% throttle. Once throttle was applied it no longer used the O2 sensor, but switched to the MAP sensor and promptly died.

Just tid-bits of information I thought I'd pass along.

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Alang: the PAIR isn't connected to the MAP sensor. The pair hose is on the right side of the airbox and the MAP is on the left side. I think Warren just confused them and blocked the wrong one.

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Alang: the PAIR isn't connected to the MAP sensor. The pair hose is on the right side of the airbox and the MAP is on the left side. I think Warren just confused them and blocked the wrong one.

Correct, I was being overly zealous pulling anything with a hose. You can remove the PAIR and evap can without touching the MAP sensor. I was simply noting the my personal experience matched what my dyno guy said.

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From a conversation I had on phobe's blog.

I sat down and chatted with my tuner tonight and shot the shit regarding the custom map. In particular how removing the O2 sensors from the bike will affect it. He said that the O2 sensors on motorcycles currently are very poor to begin with and the lambda sensors used in cars and the dyno are much more precise.

Furthermore, the O2 sensors on bikes are only used below 2000 rpm's and at 20% throttle and less (Where emissions are checked). Above those set conditions, it's no longer a closed loop system.

I asked if the bike would continue to modify fuel based on air temp and barometric pressure and he said absolutely. That's actually all done by the MAP sensor which is on the left hand side of our air boxes.

When I was pulling all the PAIR junk off the bike I actually pulled the MAP sensor hose and plugged it. The bike idled fine, but once I gave it gas it died. This now makes sense because idling, it was below 2000k and less than 20% throttle. Once throttle was applied it no longer used the O2 sensor, but switched to the MAP sensor and promptly died.

Just tid-bits of information I thought I'd pass along.

http://www.epa.gov/oms/roadbike.htm

I don't doubt that your tuner guy is good at what he does, but he's not accurate on emissions testing.

From what I can gather, emissions are tested in every gear up to 125Km/h, using the minimum amount of throttle neccessary to get to the required speed.

Also his claims don't gel with what Dutchgixxer is experiencing where he gets an 02 sensor heat code tripped above 180Km/h when he has the optimizers connected.

I suspect the 1200's fuel and throttle system is a little more sophisticated than most bikes.

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We had the engine light go on several times today while on the dyno. Not sure the cause yet.

See posts 106, 108, 110

What MIL codes are flashing?

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We had the engine light go on several times today while on the dyno. Not sure the cause yet.

See posts 106, 108, 110

What MIL codes are flashing?

After all was said and done I took the bike out for a spin, rode it hard, but only up to 4th gear and couldn't get the light to come on.

Is there any way to get the MIL code after the fact? How do I get the code when the light does come on?

As far as we noticed, it would just come on once when we had been doing full throttle runs for while...

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  • 11 months later...

Allright, so Im new to tuning up. I changed an exhaust system before and hooked up a AUX plug to the battery as far as my expirience goes... Still I hear lots of good about the PCV and how it helps smooth out the low end power which I need a lot thanks to So Cal traffic and those geniuses driving there.

To keep this on topic, could any one give me a list of stuff I need to hook this thing up? I went on the PC website and looked through the hardware, found the PCV and a self tuning thingy with the o2 sensors that "maps your ECU in the fly" [sold separate] and a LCU [thats a little excessive I thing] and a double map switch, kinda interesting if you want to keep drive as low power better MPG and sport for performence. Is there anything else I need? I understand that the PCV comes with OEM o2 sensor plugs but the self tuning kit has PC o2 sensor [for VFR its one sensor which makes me want to ask if its the left or the right one...]. I'm not mechanicly retarded so I can handle hooking it up myself as long as it dosnt require draining any fluids [id probably mess up the amounts or what goes where afterwards].

I't will be a little while before I get a chance to put this thing together but the sooner I start getting all the parts and figureing out "how to" the better.

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You need a metric socket/wrench set and a metric allen set and some zip ties.

Look at the the video on how to remove the fairings. The gas tank needs the plastic sides taken off and it's hinge bolt removed.

The instructions with the power commander were spot on.

Just remember you can slide the o2 sensors down off their bracket after you release the little tab that locks them in.

That gives you the slack in the o2 wires to remove them easier. I laid down on my back and found it only took about ten minute to remove them and put in the o2 plugs supplied with the power commander.

Make sure you remove the radiator mounting bolts like shown in the manual. That gives you more room to do the above easy.

Mine took about 3 hours taking my time and laying things out so they didn't get lost or damaged.

That's my take on this job. It was well worth it!!

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I need to get those plugs. Since mine was the prototype, my O2s are still there, just not hooked up.

My unit is just running the program that was developed initially for the manual version..

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So PCV comes with both new o2 sensors and I don't need to buy the self tunning kit separately? That was one of my biggest worries, not having all the parts or finding out there was some more stuff that I could have installed there and than but didn't and having to do the thing all over.

Also kind of on a side note, that 1st and 2nd gear power dump thats in the throttle by wire software and creates a dump, couldn't that be bypassed with PCV? I saw some people saying it isnt ut from what Ive read about PCV it gives you control over fuel air flow separate for each gear and at certain RPM points as well, so if you bump those spots between 1400 and 4000 on the first and second gear [not sure the exact rpms, would have to follow a dyno chart] up to a point you would fool the downgrade of throttle by wire. Unless the PCV takes throttle inputs not rpm, I'm no motorcycle mechanic but I bypass safeties and sth at work all the time ;] .

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Devorlast, everything is included with the power commander to do the job. You plug the O2 sensor connectors with the two supplied O2 plugs. The factory O2 sensors are left unused. You do not need to buy anything extra to install it. I used about six zip ties that is all.

If you want a K&N air filter that would be the time to install one of those as the gas tank covers the air box and you will have it lifted up anyways.

You have the DCT transmission. So you can't use a Bazzaz Z-Bomb. The Power Commander does not fix the 1rst and 2nd power hole issue.

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  • 1 month later...

I purchased a 2010 model about a month ago. Installed the PC V this afternoon. I don't think I would have been able to complete the work without the excellent guidance in this thread. Thanks to all who have contributed .... moving the connectors off the rail made all the difference !!!!

The bike now behaves more like my Blackbird. I'm really starting to love the bike; definitely the best I have ridden/owned.

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I don't know if you have noticed but Dynojet has two new maps on their website for VFR1200.

The new ones are:

"16-020-502 European model Akrapovic slip-on exhaust - no baffle Stock air filter Dynojet O2 eliminators fitted" and

"16-020-501 European model Stock exhaust Stock air filter Dynojet O2 eliminators fitted".

If you look at the adjustment values you see that these maps have a lot of minus figures especially at the low end. The earlier maps were just the opposite.

I tried the new map and the bike seemed to run much better on the low end and kind of "lighter". Also the fuel consumption is lower (as you would expect). There was no loss of power when comparing the maps with a map switch on the road.

I called Dynojet to ask what is the reason for so different map values. He first said that Europe has different fuel than US and that is why the map is different (Europe has normally 95-100 Octan fuel). But then he also said that lot of US users are also using these EU maps with good results. It seems that EU maps are just made by a different (EU) Dynojet tuning center. All the maps can be used both in US and EU. You just have to try which one feels better(??!).

One could think that 2012 maps are different to 2010 maps but it seems that they are recommending same maps for 2010-2012.

It maybe worth while to run a Dyno run to find out the truth. But then you are aiming just for max power. For me the behaviour at low end is as important. Luckily you can have both in this case if you want.

Edit: some typos fixed.

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I would say that the 2012 eu honda map is richer low down in revs than the 2010 eu honda map. That should be the reason it is possible to lean it out in the PC-v map. If you have a US bike or a 2010 -2011 eu bike without the 2012 honda mapping watch out. Go to a test centre and check.

My bike is going to honda to get the 2012 honda mapping installed. I hope i get a better mileage in combination with a Akra map. Pete2 please give advice and post your mileage please :rolleyes:

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I hope i get a better mileage in combination with a Akra map. Pete2 please give advice and post your mileage please :rolleyes:

I hope that I will be able to organize a Dyno run next week to know more what is happening. Unfortunately there is not much mileage info yet (as I haven't been able to use the bike lately :sad: ). but it seems that I get 0,5l/100km better mileage now (being 5,7 l/100km). But the figures are very unreliable yet.

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I would say that the 2012 eu honda map is richer low down in revs than the 2010 eu honda map. That should be the reason it is possible to lean it out in the PC-v map. If you have a US bike or a 2010 -2011 eu bike without the 2012 honda mapping watch out. Go to a test centre and check.

My bike is going to honda to get the 2012 honda mapping installed. I hope i get a better mileage in combination with a Akra map. Pete2 please give advice and post your mileage please :rolleyes:

Word on the Biker's Oracle forum is that the 2012 ECM is different to the earlier ones and that the 2012 map cannot be downloaded to a previous model. Any updates would be appreciated.

Peter

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