Member Contributer sckego Posted October 16, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted October 16, 2009 I recently got done installing pretty much a whole new charging system on my '04... stator, R/R, VFRness, the works. Inspected all connectors and slathered them all with dielectric grease. I also installed a voltmeter into my fairing panel so I could keep an eye on the charging voltage (this is my 3rd stator in less then a year). All of this was installed less then 500 miles ago and has been behaving perfectly... 12.5-12.6V while the engine is off, 14.5-14.6 while on. So, I'm riding home today in very heavy stop and go traffic (not running any accessories other then the voltmeter), when I glance down and the voltmeter is reading 12.5V. W. T. F. That's it, I'm selling this thing. I love the bike, but I can't continue to replace stators every couple of months. I'm already imagining what I'll replace it with. I just hope I get home before it dies on me (last time this happened, the bike cut out in the middle of the freeway). I keep glancing at the voltmeter as I inch my way home... steady at 12.5. Finally, I get off on another freeway and traffic starts to disperse, and speeds pick up. I glance down and its at 13.5V, and climbing! Within a minute or two its back at 14.5V, and stayed that way till I got home. Now... what happened? Is it possible that the R/R started overheating (it's not a hot day, 70F maybe, but it wasn't getting much airflow) and cut out, then came back on when it cooled down? Do R/Rs do that? Some other cause? And, most importantly... is this a sign of a problem? This is the first time I've monitored my charging system with a voltmeter, so I don't know if it's a normal thing or not... Thanks for any help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 The only time I've seen sub 13volt(that was 12.9), is idling in stopped traffic with electric clothes on and RDetector, soon as you move instantly back up at 14 volt. Is your volt meter keyed , so its not draining battery when bike is off? But 12.5 is not normal while riding, unless idling with a heavy load, and doesnt sound like your case Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted October 17, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2009 First off, if your charging system dies, you have about 20-30 minutes before your bike will quit. Tried and tested by me. What RR are you running? Pretty much what the OEM RR was doing to me for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sckego Posted October 17, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2009 First off, if your charging system dies, you have about 20-30 minutes before your bike will quit. Tried and tested by me.What RR are you running? Pretty much what the OEM RR was doing to me for a while. I'm running a replacement R/R from Tightwad... not sure if it's OEM, but I kind of doubt it. Probably another brand equivalent. So are you saying that you have seen this happen before? Like I said, this is the first time I'm actually monitoring the charging voltage, so I'm not sure if fluctuations like this are 'normal'. The voltmeter is wired straight to the battery with no relay, so I'm confident I'm seeing true battery voltage. It will drain the battery a bit quicker then normal, but not that much quicker... supposedly it has about the same draw as the dash clock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Knife Posted October 17, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2009 All I know is that my 5th Gen has never liked to remain idling in one place very long, or creeping through stop and go traffic. It wants to be moving through the air, and as long as it is, all is well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted October 17, 2009 Forum CEO Share Posted October 17, 2009 You must make sure that the volt meter is connected properly - if you have a loose connection on the battery or whatever - a battery bolt not tightened down will give you false reading and then improve when you lean it over or somthing when the connection is better. dont ask me how I tested this! Freaking out in the middle of the desert with a voltmeter flashing red on my dash - but the portable meter I had packed away was showing a good 14 volts at 5k rpm? tightened the battery post and instant green light on the dash! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 R/R is made by Ricks, and I haven't had any issues with them at all. Stator can be more finicky however...but sometimes working isn't a normal failure. I would bet it was because you were in traffic, and the fan was on. Next time it happens use the clutch to let the RPM go up past 3K while you are sitting still...charging voltage should go up as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sckego Posted October 17, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2009 THE FAN!!! Of course, I should have thought of that. I was all hung up on why the R/R would go wonky, when it was probably just the fan sucking up some of the voltage. Thanks Tightwad! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer swimmer Posted October 17, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2009 Just to clear up some terminology. You said you used dielectric grease. A dielectric material prevents conduction - is an insulator. Is that really what you want to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sckego Posted October 17, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2009 Just to clear up some terminology. You said you used dielectric grease. A dielectric material prevents conduction - is an insulator. Is that really what you want to do? Yes... it allows conductivity between surfaces that are in contact--like the corresponding leads of an electrical connector--but prevents moisture from shorting across adjacent connectors and causing corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
checksix Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 I've seen my voltmeter dip into the 12's at a stop light with fan running + turn signal blinking + brake light on. Volts will shoot back up into the 14's as soon as I pull away. Nothing to worry about unless it stays low while you're moving along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwobble Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 THE FAN!!! Of course, I should have thought of that. I was all hung up on why the R/R would go wonky, when it was probably just the fan sucking up some of the voltage. Thanks Tightwad! Yeah, I was in slow moving traffic a few days ago and noticed that when the fans kicked on the voltage really dropped, from 14.5 down to 12.5 or so, even at 2500 rpm. As soon as I got moving again and the coolant temp dropped to 200F or so, the fans must have stopped and voltage worked it's way back to 14.4 to 14.6 in a couple minutes. Like you, I thought "oh no, not again..." but I think the fans just draw a LOT of juice. WWWobble Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Silver#788 Posted October 17, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2009 I have seen this happen with my 5th gen before. below 11.5 is where you should worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 sckego, what brand voltmeter are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sckego Posted October 17, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2009 sckego, what brand voltmeter are you running? It's a Datel voltmeter from digitalmeter.com - http://www.digitalmeter.com/cgi-bin/websho...g=configspc.txt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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