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Vfr A Little Bit Higher


Guest VFooR

Question

Is there someone who allready made the vfr a little bit higher with kind of dogbones or something else?

When a drive mijn VFR from 1998 very hard in de twisties, my pegs and even the exhaust touches the tarmac. My preload is allready for duo (highest). Is it a solution to make him higher? How many mm? Does it changes the geometry? is it good for the stability on high speeding?

Or a new rear shock from hyperpro or wilbers is better?

So, best solution for more groundclearance??

avoiding things like this:

2j299c0.jpg

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what are your SAG measurements? yes, you adusted preload, but we still need to know SAG to help. i adjusted mine to max and was at 55mm in rear and 35 in front!! way too much. new springs, rebuild and now its 22mm/25mm and she is a new bike!

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When i had my R6s I went from a 120/60/17 in the front to a 120/70/17 and had to shim the rear to keep the same quick steering.

Between the upper shock mount and where it bolts into the frame I put 2 2MM high grade galvonized washers to raise the rear some.

That will give you more clearance but keep in mind that your steering is going to speed up a bit.

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You need a new shock. Correct springs will help, but what you need is more compression valving. You could increase your ride height and it would help a bit. If you are already hanging off you are just putting to much cornering force into the garbage Honda shock that is designed for touring and a low production cost.

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I've seen on Ebay these wedges that bolt somewhere around the rear shock thats supposed to raise the rear of the bike, change the weight distribution, etc.... I dunno if it would help but you could check them out. I think they are around 45 dollars. Do a search on Ebay for vfr 800

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  • Member Contributer

I think, I am now at about 30mm raised in the rear, and have the front raised about 5mm.

I have the high end Ohlins shock in the rear with easily adjustable ride height, so I just crank it up a turn or two in the rear every time I go for a ride lately. The shock is sprung and valved for my weight and style, and my front end is sprung and valved likewise. I have also removed my centerstand. Since adding ride height and a proper shock, I have a lot less wear on my header and fairings.

So far with +30 or so mm in the rear I have not noticed any bad manners that you would expect by raising to this degree, which I have been watching out for. The bike is put away for the season, but I will continue raising the rear end next year to the point it starts to exhibit bad manners and report back my results.

ETA: hehe, my header pipe is crushed in and worn nearly though at that spot you took a picture

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My weight is 80 KG, my rebound high. I haven't changed something else on the front.

In the netherlands (country next to mine), they build hyperpro and I really want those new shocks. But will it change a lot?

Normally on short twistie roads there is nothing that touches the ground. But when i ride the corners before or after and exit on the highway (In belgium you have very good °270-corners) on a speed of 115km/h, the pipes somethimes kisses the ground. Certenly with two, I have to slow down for about 15km/h.

So, raising for about 25mm at the back, it's fine?!

1810.jpg

1309.jpg

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My weight is 80 KG, my rebound high. I haven't changed something else on the front.

In the netherlands (country next to mine), they build hyperpro and I really want those new shocks. But will it change a lot?

Normally on short twistie roads there is nothing that touches the ground. But when i ride the corners before or after and exit on the highway (In belgium you have very good °270-corners) on a speed of 115km/h, the pipes somethimes kisses the ground. Certenly with two, I have to slow down for about 15km/h.

So, raising for about 25mm at the back, it's fine?!

1810.jpg

1309.jpg

CHECK YOUR SAG FIRST. You have a 98 bike. after setting SAG, you i would look at rebuilding/replacing your shock and changed oil/spring up front. yes, you can raise rear and drop front, but jeremy has his forks and shocks set up correctly FIRST. you can raise and lower all day, but if your suspension is rolling around like a cadillac, it won't help you much...

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My weight is 80 KG, my rebound high. I haven't changed something else on the front.

In the netherlands (country next to mine), they build hyperpro and I really want those new shocks. But will it change a lot?

1810.jpg

Your weight isn't too bad as I think the bike is designed for a 160 lb rider, but with very low end pieces.

If you have the money to spend on good aftermarket suspension pieces then that is the best route to go, but I sure would NOT spend big $ on a shock that did Not offer ride height adjustment like the Hyperpro pictured above!

If you don't have extra cash for all the high end pieces, then you could just buy the correct springs, shim the rear shock and run another 10cc's of oil in the forks to start. :dry:

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My weight is 80 KG, my rebound high. I haven't changed something else on the front.

In the netherlands (country next to mine), they build hyperpro and I really want those new shocks. But will it change a lot?

1810.jpg

Your weight isn't too bad as I think the bike is designed for a 160 lb rider, but with very low end pieces.

If you have the money to spend on good aftermarket suspension pieces then that is the best route to go, but I sure would NOT spend big $ on a shock that did Not offer ride height adjustment like the Hyperpro pictured above!

If you don't have extra cash for all the high end pieces, then you could just buy the correct springs, shim the rear shock and run another 10cc's of oil in the forks to start. :dry:

It looks like it has a ride height adjustment at the bottom at the rod end and jam nut.

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Yeah, what everybody else said.

1. Shim your shock. I made a quarter inch (6 mm) shim for the top of mine that fits over the top of shock bolt. Used a small rectanglular piece of quarter inch aluminum and cut it to fit.

2. Get a shock that is length adjustable. I run a Penske on mine. I have the rear of my '02 raised about 30 mm total and I dropped the front end so the top of fork cap is 50 mm above the upper triple clamp. I think that works out to a front end drop of about 5-6 mm over stock. To give you an idea of where you want to be when it's all said and done, if the bike winds up with the rear wheel touching the ground when the bike in on the center stand, you're pretty close to the correct ride height in the rear.

3. Make sure your rear spring is correct for your weight.

When the VFR is set up properly, it will haul butt without dragging parts.

Once you've done all of this if you're still dragging parts 2 up, get a skinny/smaller girlfriend/wife.

Pete

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2. Get a shock that is length adjustable. I run a Penske on mine. I have the rear of my '02 raised about 30 mm total and I dropped the front end so the top of fork cap is 10 mm above the upper triple clamp. I think that works out to a front end drop of about 5-6 mm over stock. To give you an idea of where you want to be when it's all said and done, if the bike winds up with the rear wheel touching the ground when the bike in on the center stand, you're pretty close to the correct ride height in the rear.

Pete

Pete, is that right? Fork cap 10mm above the triple? That's less than 1/2" and doesn't give your clip-ons much to grab onto - besides being a raise in the front end! :dry:

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2. Get a shock that is length adjustable. I run a Penske on mine. I have the rear of my '02 raised about 30 mm total and I dropped the front end so the top of fork cap is 10 mm above the upper triple clamp. I think that works out to a front end drop of about 5-6 mm over stock. To give you an idea of where you want to be when it's all said and done, if the bike winds up with the rear wheel touching the ground when the bike in on the center stand, you're pretty close to the correct ride height in the rear.

Pete

Pete, is that right? Fork cap 10mm above the triple? That's less than 1/2" and doesn't give your clip-ons much to grab onto - besides being a raise in the front end! :dry:

Seb:

You're right - that doesn't sound like much. Maybe it's 50 mm - my brain is not the sharpest now days. I'll check it at home tonight and repost. Thank for catching my faux pas.

Pete

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2. Get a shock that is length adjustable. I run a Penske on mine. I have the rear of my '02 raised about 30 mm total and I dropped the front end so the top of fork cap is 10 mm above the upper triple clamp. I think that works out to a front end drop of about 5-6 mm over stock. To give you an idea of where you want to be when it's all said and done, if the bike winds up with the rear wheel touching the ground when the bike in on the center stand, you're pretty close to the correct ride height in the rear.

Pete

Pete, is that right? Fork cap 10mm above the triple? That's less than 1/2" and doesn't give your clip-ons much to grab onto - besides being a raise in the front end! :biggrin:

Seb:

You're right - that doesn't sound like much. Maybe it's 50 mm - my brain is not the sharpest now days. I'll check it at home tonight and repost. Thank for catching my faux pas.

Pete

Seb:

Good catch! It is 50 mm on my '02 the way I have it set-up. Must have been distracted by Adrianna Lima in the Victoria's Secret commerical when I was typing.

Pete

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When you order a wilbers, you have an option te raise de rear for about 5mm. That's no a lot, I think. So, bad option??

there is a multiplier due to the dog bone, knuckle config on the rear suspension. i think it is 2 or 3 to 1, so 5mm = 10mm or 15mm of actual rear movement, not sure which.

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With the wilbers shock is that raising the rear at the mounting point or measured at the rear of the bike?

On my R6 I put in the 4mm spacer I made in there and it raised the rear I would say a couple inches.

Plus when you raise the rear steering is going to be a lot quicker then stock.. Its the same thing almost as raising the forks in the triple tree.

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  • Member Contributer

It's 3:1 on the earlier bikes; not sure on the RC46, but I'll know soon!

In one of the Frankenviffer threads it was mentioned that the suspension "dogbone" from an RC36-II (er, 4th-gen) was shorter than that on the 5th-gen, which raises the rear of the bike by some significant amount. Sounded good, so I bought the linkage off a 4th-gen off eBay, and added one from a CBR900RRX, because it looked similar and was cheap. Turns out, the dogbone is _exactly_ the same, though the side plates are different. Between the three sets of suspension linkage I now have, I should be able to determine a good compromise on my new-ish 5th-gen.

I'll leave the springy-saggy stuff to others--I'm checkin' out the 'bones...

Ciao,

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I ordered this en also springs from öhlins in the front.

The rearschock has raised for about 3mm in the shock so the groundclearance is a bit more.

XX_Ohlins_shock.jpg

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I ordered this en also springs from öhlins in the front.

The rearschock has raised for about 3mm in the shock so the groundclearance is a bit more.

XX_Ohlins_shock.jpg

looks moi!

I have mine raise 16mm with a CBR929 shock and it is worlds better. That Ohlins should be magic.

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