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Motorcycle Ramps


ECX585

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Ok.......so I can't ride for a few months, I have no garage in which to do mods, but I do have a credit card, so at least I can buy stuff!

I'm looking for recommendations on cycle ramps- specifically ones that accomodate the ride on/off of a pickup truck and which fold up for easy transport. Here is the one I've been looking at http://www.discountramps.com/motorcycle-ramp-sale.htm. Anybody have one? Also, has anyone done business with discountramps.com? Thanks.

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I have a Quad Boss ramp which works well. It's wide so I can ride up it, right into the truck. It folds up along it's length so I can slide it into the truck, next to the bike. It's designed like a wide ladder with a spine up the middle, so I ride up the spine. Plan on adding an aluminum skin to the panels to make it a bit better.

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I ordered some tie down straps from them. The straps looked good and have worked well so far. The case they came in had dents, one of the latches was messed up, and in general looked like it had been thrown in the back of a truck for a year before they sent it to me. I called and complained about it. They had me e-mail some pictures of it, then they sent me a new case. They did not want the old junk one sent back to them for some reason. :cool:

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I prefer to walk bikes into a truck by feathering the clutch, and found that arched ramps work best. On bigger trucks like my full size Chevy, a flat ramp will leave a chance for the bike to bottom out at the intersect of the ramp & tailgate.

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I prefer to walk bikes into a truck by feathering the clutch, and found that arched ramps work best. On bigger trucks like my full size Chevy, a flat ramp will leave a chance for the bike to bottom out at the intersect of the ramp & tailgate.

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I use an arched, folding aluminum ramp that is about 8" wide. I keep a cooler as a step to the left of the ramp, back up to a hill or something to reduce the height difference, then walk next to the bike, with engine running and use the clutch to power the bike up the ramp while I walk next to it. Very easy.

To get it down, ride the clutch in 1st or 2nd gear with the engine off to work as a rear brake. You will find if you try to use the front brake while going backwards down a ramp it is totally worthless and will just lock up and may cause you to lose your balance.

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I prefer to walk bikes into a truck by feathering the clutch, and found that arched ramps work best. On bigger trucks like my full size Chevy, a flat ramp will leave a chance for the bike to bottom out at the intersect of the ramp & tailgate.

%201.gif

I use an arched, folding aluminum ramp that is about 8" wide. I keep a cooler as a step to the left of the ramp, back up to a hill or something to reduce the height difference, then walk next to the bike, with engine running and use the clutch to power the bike up the ramp while I walk next to it. Very easy.

To get it down, ride the clutch in 1st or 2nd gear with the engine off to work as a rear brake. You will find if you try to use the front brake while going backwards down a ramp it is totally worthless and will just lock up and may cause you to lose your balance.

I don't have my own ramps yet, I have a good friend that loans me his just about any time I need them. They're heavy steel units, I think they came from the Northern Tool catalog. I like to use both ramps and walk up one with the bike on the other. Easy as pie.

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I use the same shop made wooden ramps for both my road bike and dirt bike. Two lengths so you can stay above the bike. 'Bout a $120.00 for the alum. ramp ends. Cheap and works for me........... :blink: until my pig of a vfr snaps a board. DOH! :cool:

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To get it down, ride the clutch in 1st or 2nd gear with the engine off to work as a rear brake. You will find if you try to use the front brake while going backwards down a ramp it is totally worthless and will just lock up and may cause you to lose your balance.

Good point.......learned this one the hard way when I almost dumped the bike after the front wheel locked on my first solo attempt at unloading.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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I've decided to try and wake this topic up again before placing an order--I really don't want to pay return shipping for ordering the wrong ramps.

Any ideas as to how long the ramps need to be to prevent the VFR from bottoming out? I tried an online calclulator and it came up with 17 feet!! Thanks as always.

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I use a single ramp now ...............forget where I got it. Works fine.

However, I intend to buy this in 2009. Serves/doubles as both a ramp and a tailgate extender.

rr.header.main.pic3.jpg

readyramp.com

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I use a single ramp now ...............forget where I got it. Works fine.

However, I intend to buy this in 2009. Serves/doubles as both a ramp and a tailgate extender.

rr.header.main.pic3.jpg

readyramp.com

%201.gif If (more like when) I buy another one, it will be one of these too.

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I've decided to try and wake this topic up again before placing an order--I really don't want to pay return shipping for ordering the wrong ramps.

Any ideas as to how long the ramps need to be to prevent the VFR from bottoming out? I tried an online calclulator and it came up with 17 feet!! Thanks as always.

It really depends on a lot of factors. Of course, how high your bed is, ground clearance and wheelbase of the bike, but also the orientation of the vehicle and the ground when you are loading. I try to back my truck up to a loading dock if possible, into a ditch, or all else fails, I pull the front tires of my truck up onto a curb to lower the rear end.

I have a folding, aluminum, 750lb rated model made by Reese and it is about 7' long. I have never had a problem loading into the bed of my Tacoma pickup that has a couple inch lift and is about as high as any non lifted truck bed I have seen short of a F750.

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Loading a bike into a pickup is scary as hell, especially a full sized truck. I hate doing it and need at least another person to help. If you gonna spend 400$ on a ramp my suggestion would be to spend that money on a small utility trailer w/ 15" wheels and a hinged ramp or a tilt bed. You can load all by yourself and dont need "therapy" every time you load/unload the bike from your truck. Plus you can use the trailer for lots of other hauling.

My 2 pennies

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Loading a bike into a pickup is scary as hell, especially a full sized truck. I hate doing it and need at least another person to help. If you gonna spend 400$ on a ramp my suggestion would be to spend that money on a small utility trailer w/ 15" wheels and a hinged ramp or a tilt bed. You can load all by yourself and dont need "therapy" every time you load/unload the bike from your truck. Plus you can use the trailer for lots of other hauling.

My 2 pennies

Two problems with that: 1) I don't really have a place to store a trailer, and 2) I back trailers up like a chick. (Said tongue-in-cheek, of course. Passionate replies from the female persuasion are always welcomed though)

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Two problems with that: 1) I don't really have a place to store a trailer, and 2) I back trailers up like a chick. (Said tongue-in-cheek, of course. Passionate replies from the female persuasion are always welcomed though)

It just takes practice is all. Also, the longer the trailer, the easier it is to backup.

I have an enclosed trailer, but I still put the bike in the bed often because it is easier to drive, I can drive faster, more maneuverable, and twice the fuel mileage. The trailer is a lot more convenient for loading/unloading, carrying stuff, and camping in.

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Even though I have a trailer I often throw the VFR in the bed.....................for the reasons stated above. Sometimes the truck works best and other times..................

With a little practice, it is not that big of a deal.

2195843120099738507S600x600Q85.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
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2195843120099738507S600x600Q85.jpg

Bonus, Is this a Silverado/Sierra with a 6' bed?

Looks like it's almost closed. Do you position the bike sideways?

I just got the same truck and wonder if I'll be able to close the tailgate if I place the bike diagonally.

Too lazy to measure the bike/bed :pissed:

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