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86 VFR700F Retool or therapy or both


tsmitty

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1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

Great job so far. 

Thanks Captain! I am so thankful it seems like the Starter Clutch/Timing issue is resolved. 

I'm starting to clean up and photograph plastic and the cracks and breakage of the pieces. 

But Back to the engine... The carbs need synced. The hanging throttle might go away then.?

The video was about 10-15 minute after initial start. Lot of smoking as cleaning junk and shit burning off the rear down pipes. Fuck its been a long time since I've herd my bike!  And she seems to sound bad ass! 

All the brake light issues are done. 

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Many times hanging throttle is a lean condition on idle circuit.  Try turning the pilot screws out a half turn and see if it changes at all.

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It was a beautiful cool night in Ohio last night, so I asked my son Jay to take the bike out for a mildly aggressive shake down ride, no turn signals, plates (aledigedly) but who cares, it won't be my ticket! I wanted a 2nd gear roll-on to an easy shift into 3rd. at about red. Jay said she preformed well, the engine was strong. He had a big smile on his face, and the old girl sounded very nice. Would have rather had one of the seasoned VFR qualified guys here do about an 80% shakedown...

 

Anyways...lets get her clothes back on...

 

 

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2 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

Did the hanging idle persist?

No it seems to be gone and thanks for the tip. 

It was cool last night and probably could be a bit leaner...:)

But it fires right up with very little choke, the sync will have to stay as is from the bench. 

The garage even smelled like a warm VFR!

 

Ok...

The Plastic...

I don't want to repaint any exterior surfaces, actually the exterior cracks are fine, I just want to arrest the cracking on the inside.

The tail piece and side covers are original with original paint and signage (i think). The tail had 3 out of 4 of the mounts broken off and repaired with safety wire. There was a crack at the light I fixed with Plastex and a piece of fiber. cloth. 

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Wired and fitted to the stock rubbers and collars and i think it will outlast me, and no one will see it.

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The tail was done a while back and the side covers got done last week. The each had a button (don't know what to call them) broken off.

This is where I started playing with Plastex and molding parts. On the one arrowhead was savable and used to mold for the other side cover with no arrowhead and vise versa for the button looking ones.

 

 

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The Left side had the arrowhead and standoff wiped off and thats where i built up the standoff and used the Plastex molded arrowhead.

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Well here's how the lowers went.

I'm using this plastic repair kit and its molding blocks.

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A hot plate wasn't in the budget so an old halogen light warmed up the molding material enough.

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Both the lowers have been repaired and repainted in the past by PO's so I'm just doing a patch up and hopefully some prettifying.

The Right Lower has relatively little damage and was used to make the molds for two spots for left side repairs.

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Left side sucked.

I had a interference fit with my radiator savers I never saw before at the intake snorkel mounting screw and the just got compounded by my rectifier mount bolt. 

Top middle Duz receiver was all busted up along with the trailing lower screw hole. 

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The cloth on the back there is some stuff I got 15 years ago its like a ABS impreginated cloth i got from a theatrical supply for some model ship building; you soak the stuff in Acitone and put it on your plastic and it hardens and becomes one with the plastic, I used it hereto just to add some support. I also used it to build the side cover arrowhead stand-off.

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1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

Pretty crafty work there dude

I don't know man ...all flippin new to me! But thanks.

I'll start seeing if everything still fits in place.

WTF is this?

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Please tell this aint stock! I don't remember this thing.

This is what I have for lower stand-offs. 

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The bottom one kinda resembles it current owner; bent up and scared up but still willin...lol

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1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

Look for my boxes of bodywork from The Guest/Rain Bike to show up soon. 

need a hot plate...mama says my VFR budget is wiped... lol

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19 minutes ago, tsmitty said:

I don't know man ...all flippin new to me! But thanks.

I'll start seeing if everything still fits in place.

WTF is this?

image.thumb.jpeg.5db941dd0214e6f4846b62b31489b031.jpeg

Please tell this aint stock! I don't remember this thing.

This is what I have for lower stand-offs. 

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The bottom one kinda resembles it current owner; bent up and scared up but still willin...lol

 

The top is the replacement style stay for the bottom original.  Less likely to break off and leave the threads in the frame.

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1 minute ago, Captain 80s said:

The top is the replacement style

I thought something like that was the case, that thing looks like shit...my opinion.

If I ever get a Harbor Freight Lathe that is my first project.

 

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My friend created some pretty decent looking replacements with some metric all-thread, thick wall aluminum tubing, and a long hex nut (w/ thin lock nut) for the bodywork fastener to thread into.

 

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It was meant as a band aid, but he just kept them.

 

 

 

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Hell yea! Great idea! 

The location of those two mounts seem to be non adjustable and constant other than rotation: am I overthink this or is that a major factor in the position of the Cowl? Did that make any sense.....

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An original style (undamaged) mount is absolutely straight.   If your lowers don't match up, your problem is upstream.

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On 10/18/2023 at 3:25 PM, Captain 80s said:

If your lowers don't match up, your problem is upstream.

I got the lowers to match up, the cowl looks close but its jacked up at the sub frame, it was all bent up before, so now there is an interference with the clutch lever and top of the cowl by the mirror area, with about an inch on the brake lever side. feeling overwhelmed...

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Time to step back, take a break and regroup...

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Take the gauges back out.  That way you can slide a bar into the frame work of the upper cowl stay and manipulate it around.  Also pay attention to the mirror mounts (independent of the cowl stay itself), they like to move when crashed and can play a big part in locating the upper cowl.  

 

Also, how does your frame look where the stops on the lower triple hit it?  If impressed on one side more than the other, they will allow the steering lock to travel farther and can make it seem like the upper cowl stay is off.

 

When you're all done, then reinstall the gauges.

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1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

That looks pretty good now.

 

Hey...  nice inner fairing panels too!   Where in the hell did you score those?

Thanks!

A good friend found those, they're perfect! The right panel had a crack that I repaired with the cloth stuff I spoke of earlier and I manipulated the mounts and panel holes as respectively as I could so they both go on with no twists at all. Thank God and Bless friends.

The cowl is aftermarket fiberglass with the original paint, I think. I has the two lower mount holes for the headlight but no top mount, I'm sure the decal/paint is off location and the turn signal locations look like swiss cheese.

Solvoset is the name of the fabric stuff.

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Got this stuff a while ago 2007 looks like.

I don't plan any top cote other than cleaning conditioner.

 

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Cowl issues:

Top headlight mount to create. If needed?

 

Cowl to windscreen fit is farkle! The fit was bad but seems much worse after hanging on the wall for a year.

Do these things curl in on themselves? Is this reversible?

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You can likely start "training" it back with some blankets and appropriately placed weighted items before trying to mount and possibly cracking.

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13 hours ago, tsmitty said:

The cowl's a little crooked...I don't think I can get it out...

 

It's such a horrifically complicated asymmetric shape that's it's always going to be problematic to straighten perfectly. 

 

Same issue with the rear indicator sub-subframe on the 88-89 bikes. The number I see with wonky indicators because it's almost impossible to straighten it. 

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