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86 VFR700F Retool or therapy or both


tsmitty

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The white dot at T1 is a crack location fo the hardened stuff, Hope TIG dude can work around this area with extra caution, the T3 side is solid.

45 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

I can't tell you how many times I walk around my shop or the shop at work looking for something that is the right diameter 

I know and more time than not you find the most odd-ball thing...

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45 minutes ago, VFR750F3 said:

I am still puzzled why you just did not purchase the correct parts needed which I offered to you. It seems like a lot of work.

 

Sometimes it's the journey dude.

 

"Why didn't you just take the Interstate, like I told you to?"

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On 6/28/2023 at 3:47 PM, VFR750F3 said:

I have spare triggers and motors 86 and 87.  

 

That was an offer?  Sure seemed like a statement about your preparedness for the future.  Which is cool too.

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2 hours ago, VFR750F3 said:

I am still puzzled why you just did not purchase the correct parts needed which I offered to you. It seems like a lot of work.

Because I purchased a brand new part, still available part, an un-broken part, a part that has see "0" stress! You got one of those for sale? So far this conversion has cost me 25 bucks and thats including the degree wheel. So if your looking for a degree wheel when I get done, I got one for sale... 

1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

Sometimes it's the journey dude.

That exactly right.    

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I have been on a journey through many motorcycles there Captain.  It get to a point you do it right the first time or you just end up doing it again that is zero stress. By the way your restored motorcycles look like you took no shortcuts.  The cost of the gasket btw is another $25 bucks.  I enjoy reading about modifications but something the road less traveled does not always make a difference..

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TIG spots are concentrated and you can let cool down inbetween welds. Besides you will not be welding the hard part, only the softer outer shell and not burn through so any heating of the hardened part will be indirect. Keep the inner part below 150 degC and nothing will happen.

If you are worried consider keeping the piece partially under water. Just keep the areas to be welded completely dry. Otherwise clamp it flat against a lump of copper. You don't appear the worried type of person though 😎. Clamp the welding ground to the piece you are welding and close to the welding zone to avoid sending the welding current through the hardened part.

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1 hour ago, rc24dk said:

TIG spots are concentrated and you can let cool down inbetween welds.

Thanks rc, I can't weld for shit lol...this is going to a shop here locally. 

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Roughed out two blanks today fitted one, I went with a slight dovetail fit.

Clearance issues on the back at the Drive Clutch Basket so a fillet relief in the back may come. This is just roughed out. this week a talk with TIG Dude. 

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I thing I'm good! The mess gets glued together tomorrow morning. The TIG guy said he will add material to the trailing edges of the two triggers, I'm going to put the timing exactly as stock. 

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13 minutes ago, rc24dk said:

It'll be interesting to see if the "holes" where the removed triggers were will trigger the ignition. If so you may need to plug the holes as well.

 

Nah.  The "Pulse" is generated by close proximity of the trigger to the magnet in the pick-up coil.  

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8 minutes ago, rc24dk said:

It'll be interesting to see if the "holes" where the removed triggers were will trigger the ignition.

Yup...me too! lol    I'm pretty sure I'll know right away at the first start-up... 🙂

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When the weld guy said "it didn't turn out like I planned" "too much oil in the steel" my heart sank. Turned out like shit! So after a day or so of fretting and bitching about the welder it was time to move forward. untitledshoot-0808.thumb.jpg.4bb466b461b608939ed70c61db79e747.jpguntitledshoot-0807.thumb.jpg.d8ff2de726e786d541163ecbf86ff3b5.jpg

So I have to re-cut the height of the triggers first... I made this little handpick holder a while back, its very accurate but too small.

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BTW those are 2,4,6 blocks. Next choice; I repurposed a cross slide/compound from a old Craftsman metal lathe, used the starter clutch assembly as the pivot. .003 depth of cut rotating by hand.

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Still not out of the woods but it is what it is. This could be a lesson on what not to do.

 

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You don't know, until you know.  I would have never guessed that development.  In hindsight, some practice welds on the original unit would have been prudent before modding anything. 

 

The good news is if they are in the right spot, the right length and the right height when done...   no one will see it.

 

Nice setups also.  Crafty, like a crow.

 

Cheers dude.

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1 minute ago, Captain 80s said:

some practice welds on the original unit

yup! I've been treating the stock one like gold...but sure could have found a spot to test but I think my choice of a stick man was flawed too...

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The profile is complete, trigger to censor gap is good, not my best looking work but... Timing next, not bad for drill press work, not looking forward to tramming it back in though.

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It's a digital situation for an analog ignition system.

 

It's either gonna work or not in the end.  0 or 1

 

Doesn't matter what it looks like.

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On 7/14/2023 at 6:21 PM, tsmitty said:

I don't know about the timing change. I did a bolt-on 2deg timing advance for my 929 back in the day but honestly don't know if I'm comparing apples to oranges here. I'll just leave the question hang here a while as I create the trigger blanks.

 

FWIW the HBoL gives different ignition timing for the 86, 87, 88-89 and 90 etc. 

 

The various Official Honda Manuals however say 15° BTDC for the 86 and 15° BTDC for the 88-89 and 15° BTDC for the 90-96!

 

I would therefor suspect that the timing "change" between the two different triggers is less an actual change and more the mechanics of how its triggered. Don't forget that the pickups also change between 86,87,88-89 and 90+. 

 

I would leave well alone, if you want to mess with timing it would be better to just fit the later trigger wheel, an aftermarket ECU and move the ignition advance in "software". 

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Fine tuning the leading edges tomorrow (they have about .015 on them, and time for die polishing stones)then the trailing edges after that and its a done deal. 

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I would probably grind the remains of the removed triggers flush.

If the average size of the trigger blanks are 4mm x 1.5mm and diameter is 70mm the centrifugal force at 11500 rpm will be around 5 kgf (11.5 lbf). The weldings should be able to handle at least someting like double up of that.

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1 hour ago, rc24dk said:

I would probably grind the remains of the removed triggers flush.

Thanks rc, I have been giving that some thought too and I might dust off the two taller ones but I am trying to limit grinding dust around those holes. With the sensor/trigger clearance being .013-.014, I really think the cut off triggers won't interfere with the magnetic fields going on there.

On a different note, I'm thinking the trailing edges of the triggers are the actual pulse to the brain; when I was doing the my initial measuring, I tried the ohm meter on the sensors for continuity test method. I was reading open when the trigger entered the sensor then at the exit it showed a momentary close condition...but the trigger had to go through the sensor with some velocity to pulse, thats why the ohm meter method of measuring trigger location didn't work out for me...just fyi.

 

 

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