Jump to content
Doc4216

I Think Its The R/r

Recommended Posts

Initially I thought is was my stator but now I think it is the R/R.

So I did "the drill" as follows and got these findings:

These are R/R quick checks---

--- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.)

Battery with engine off: 12.3v

Battery at idle: 11.7

Battery at 5000 rpm: 11.7

(Battery was replaced in August after my 4 yo one left me stranded. I figured it was 4 years old and had run it's course.)

- Check stator
- 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off)

All three were .08 ohms

- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart)

No continuity

- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart.

Idle is steady between 20-21

5000 rpm is steady 60

So my question is....is there anything else I need to check before ordering my next R/R?

Thanks for any advice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only other thing I can think of is to check that the 20 to 60v AC is getting past the connector and making it to the R/R, and that no charging voltage is making out of the R/R past the output connector.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only other thing I can think of is to check that the 20 to 60v AC is getting past the connector and making it to the R/R, and that no charging voltage is making out of the R/R past the output connector.

Yep. And if the connections are all good, it's time for a new rr.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the starter relay.

Output of the rec/reg gets to the battery through it, and this connection can overheat and fail.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You did AC readings on each of the 3 stator legs? If one leg is out, that will give you a low DC voltage at the battery reading. And hate to say, but you need to verify for a fact your battery is good even though you bought it in August.

:cool:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I charged both my old and my new battery. Had them tested at parts store, both checked out good.

So, I replaced my R/R friday night and took it for a test ride. The results are not good. Now my voltmeter is reading 11.7 at a stop with it never rising above 12.3. Not at 5k, not at 6500, not at 9k...engine at regular temp. No other issues except this!!

I am going to order a new stator and replace it. What is confusing is that on the bench, the battery reads 13.1, when installed on bike, it reads 12.6 but my voltmeter I installed on my bike reads 12.1.

I feel like I am missing something thats right in front of my face.

Ugh! I'm so frustrated with this bike but I love it sooooo much!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you clarify where you're measuring those 3 battery voltages? If your on-board meter is switched, you have to factor in that the headlights will be drawing current, affecting the reading (presuming engine off). If you're tapping the tail light circuit as many do, you have to account for resistance / current draw there. It's best to wire the meter so it reads directly from the battery.

For now, I wouldn't worry too much about the differences in the 3 - what's concerning is the no charging situation. Before you tear in to the stator, in your first post you verified its condition, so some additional diagnosis is in order before spending money on parts. An open connector, fuse or ground produces the same no-charge situation as a failed component. My $.02 would be to first follow the path to / from the battery to the starter relay, main fuse, the main chassis ground on top of the frame under the rear of the tank (follow the battery negative cable to it), stator / R/R connectors - go through all the components (separate connectors, pull fuses and inspect) where charging current flows and treat them all with Oxgard anti-oxidant compound. Be sure all connectors are clean, making good connection and are fully seated. Wiggle the wires in to each one and watch your meter for changes in voltage. Check all the wiring and fuses over thoroughly. Also, verify the installation of the R/R - take nothing for granted. On the ohms setting, you can check along the circuit(s) for excessive or infinite resistance. Once that all checks out good, then maybe do a re-test of your stator with the engine at operating temp. Things expand when heated, so any crack or flaw in the stator wiring can be amplified and give a different result. If it is something as you say right in front of you, it's probably a straightforward fix.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I replaced my stator and R/r in October, also added a voltmeter at the same time.

Over the winter I installed heated elements to my grips and Hyperlites. Have put about 2k on the bike since I did the stator and now I smell electrical burning again. My volts haven't changed though and I have no indication other than smell that this one is starting to go.

Has this happened to anyone else?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Doc, so sorry for your troubles. The good news is that no problem is fatal.

Looking back I found something interesting: "I charged both my old and my new battery. Had them tested at parts store, both checked out good."

That led me to wonder, in this process have you checked for short circuits?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to be clear on your process, putting the ammeter between the negative battery cable and the battery terminal?

Edited by Knight

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So new events this weekend. Rode over to the city (about 20 minutes), voltmeter showing normal. As we are at stops, I notice the voltmeter start dropping almost a whole number 13.8 to 13.1-12.9 but when I get going again, it jumps right back up to 13.8.

I am having the suspension upgraded this weekend so I am going to have them run a check of everything but I also have a spare R/r that I am taking along with me. I was also thinking about getting another stator to be on the safe side.

Could it actually be the R/r this time even though I just replaced it last october?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gents, guess what? Time to replace my stator again. Second one in two years! Went with a Rick's this time. Two years ago I replaced the OEM with Electrosport. if this one fails in two years, I will either replace with an OEM as I have heard people having good luck or I will be bike shopping.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Give Gary a call at Custom Rewind.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, sa1713 said:

Give Gary a call at Custom Rewind.

 

+1   He did my 6th gen stator.  Quality product, great price.  Be patient with him - he has MS and when talking with him he can be tough to understand, but he's a very nice guy.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Doc4216 said:

Gents, guess what? Time to replace my stator again. Second one in two years! Went with a Rick's this time. Two years ago I replaced the OEM with Electrosport. if this one fails in two years, I will either replace with an OEM as I have heard people having good luck or I will be bike shopping.

 

Ricks, Electrosport... all the same Chinese garbage.

 

I say suck it up and go with OEM, or go with a rewind.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
+1   He did my 6th gen stator.  Quality product, great price.  Be patient with him - he has MS and when talking with him he can be tough to understand, but he's a very nice guy.  

Just sent one off to him, had no trouble understanding the guy, that is unless it was someone else working there. None the less super nice and said he'd turn it around in 2 days or so. $119 shipped is hard to beat for a custom job that's made to last. Now I really need to figure out what the very best R&R kit is so I can do this baby right. 1998 Vfr 800


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go to Roadstercycle. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you get a stator rewind from Gary, then ask for extra long leads, say extra 30 inches. (Trim it to fit perfect.) That way you can by pass any intermediate connection and go direct to the gray connector on the R/R. That would be the cleanest way. You will need a good crimper tool to crimp on the terminals to both gray and black connectors. 

 

Yes, absolutely grab the FH020AA from Roadstercyle.. 

An install looks like this.......

R%20and%20R%2025_zpsvygskdrk.jpg

20170521_172115_zpsed24kon0.jpg

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If you get a stator rewind from Gary, then ask for extra long leads, say extra 30 inches. (Trim it to fit perfect.) That way you can by pass any intermediate connection and go direct to the connector on the R/R. That would be the cleanest way. You will need a good crimper tool to crimp on the terminals to both gray and black connectors. 
 
Yes, absolutely grab the FH020AA from Roadstercyle.. 
An install looks like this.......
R%20and%20R%2025_zpsvygskdrk.jpg
20170521_172115_zpsed24kon0.jpg
 


Just sent the stator off to Gary and ordered the super kit from roadster. Hope after this the electric system will be relatively bulletproof. When I get the R&R kit do I just tear the old wires out and run the new positive and negative leads straight to the battery?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you look at the photos, the red lead goes to a MetriPack630 fusebox and then to the pos lead to the battery. Then black of course goes to ground or neg lead on the battery. On the bottom picture roughly center left, you can see I sealed up the stocker connector that was the OEM lead to the the OEM R/R. 

 

I typically order just the R/R and connectors only when I do the job, and make my own leads and whatever else is needed so I can do it how I want..... Mostly I go a step above what Roadster provides in a super kit..... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×