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After months of scouring the internet it became apparent that my VFR was plagued by a similar issue that many have that has no apparent cure. Lumpy idling, stumbling upon acceleration and over all poor running. I did all of the Troubleshooting that's in the repair manual and all checked within spec. Even checking the balance of the starter valves - all was within spec. I have tried various combinations of he PAIR mod as well with very little success. There was a lot of recommendation to use a PowerCommander but there was generally a divide where it either exacerbated the problems or only mildly made them better. In my research I came across the RapidBike Racing and Evo modules. What piqued my interest with this module over the PowerCommander was this module utilizes the O2 sensors and has the ability to adjust the fueling in the lower spectrum of the RPM which cant be modified by simpler modules such as the PowerCommander. The biggest downside was the hefty price tag. a few more hundred over the PowerCommander. But the results reported by all seemed promising so I bit the bullet and ordered myself one. Well, it took nearly 2 months to receive which was incredibly disappointing especially specifically ordering directly through RapidBike Canada. None the less, I spent last week installing this module. I was't particularly pleased with trying to stuff this module under the seat (where we all know there is no space already) so i decided to make this installation as unobtrusive and inconspicuous as possible. Check out the photos. Its been about 400Km since I have installed the module and holy $H!T, I cannot express the difference this bike has in performance, smoothness, rideability and overall engine characteristics. The increase in low end torque is unreal! I have played around with a couple of the MAP settings in the module and its only getting better and better as the module self programs Km by Km. So for anyone who is suffering from a similar plague, I highly recommend the RapidBike Module.

Does anyone have (or know where I can get) a USB Power Commander 3 (for a 98/99 VFR800) ? The part number should be "101-401". I could also use "101-411" which some have reported can work just as well on a 98/99 with updated firmware. Unfortunately, I got taken by a scammer who was taking pics from the web and pretending it was their own. Last time I send any $ to a member who doesn’t have more history, reputation, posts, etc. (or ID verification). Oh well, my bad. Still looking for the PC4 though… Thanks in advance.

Hello, New to the group and new to VFRs. Picked up a 2006 VFR with 8k miles. I got a Power Commander III to help with the dip in responsiveness/performance between 4k-6k RPM. Looking for someone to share a MAP to a PCIII or PC V that they run on their bike. My bike is stock with exception to the Power Commander. Any help would be awesome to get a MAP that someone is actually using or has experience with to upload to my bike. Any other suggestions for improving the performance I will gladly listen to. Thanks so much for the help and this group. Some really great content on here. Thanks!

Hi, Has anyone ever used this EFI controller on a 5th Gen? It costs a lot less than Power Commander, and the website claims that it is very simple to set up. Dobeck Performance are in Montana, and appear to be legit. I personally have no experience with EFI mods, but it sounds interesting. No computer MAP required. http://www.techlusion.com/dobeck-TFI-controller.asp VFR800 specific (fits a few other Honda models as well) http://www.tficontrollers.com/Cruiser/viewproduct.asp?pid=21

I just bought a 2003 Honda Interceptor VFR800 ABS, it has 10,000 miles and for the most part runs okay until... After the bike is warm (180F) it will stall and die. It also will subtly cut-out around 5000 rpm (cruising speed). After start-up I can smell a rich fuel mix from the exhaust. As I begin maintenance and troubleshooting... Is this an O2 sensor issue? Faulty injector (no fuel injection warning light yet)? Fuel pump? Would purchasing a Dynoject Power Commander bypass any O2 sensor issue? Thanks.

Hi there, So over the winter I installed a power commander V to try to improve 1) throttle jerkiness and 2) jerky VTEC transition. I've just had my first test ride and while the throttle jerkiness has gone totally the VTEC transition is worse than ever. At 10% or 100% throttle it's smooth, but at 50% (where you spend most time in the real world) it's super jerky. Feels like there's a complete cut for about what feels like a whole second before it comes back in. I've already done the PAIR, snorkle and flapper mods and have a standard exhaust with the baffle mod done for more sound. I installed the 'European 2002-2005 model, Stock exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter, Airbox valve disabled' map. Anyone had a similar experience or have any suggestions as I've just spent over £300 and made my bike worse! Thanks in advance, Tom

Has anyone installed a PCV and Auto Tune on the 1200 yet? I'm curious if I need to weld a bung hole for the O2 sensor, or if I could remove the stock ones installed and use them instead. I'm not too sure if there's a size difference, hence why I'm asking. Obviously it would be great if I could use the already existing hole. I don't feel like going to a muffler joint to have someone cut one for me.

I have a 2014 VFR and am looking at picking a Power Commander V module along with the Dynojet AutoTune module as well. Has anyone installed the AutoTune module? I'm specifically wondering about the O2 sensor and what size the threads are, M18x1.5? The AutoTune comes with a sensor to that's M18x1.5 and I don't really want to drill a hole and weld a bung in place. I don't have any other performance mods but will plan on installing a K&N air filter and a IXIL L3XB slip on exhaust after intstalling the PCV & AutoTune. Any feedback or suggestions are also appreciated. Thanks!

Where has everyone mounted their PC? I'm about to install a PCIII on my bike & might run into a problem finding a location to mount it because I already have a Speedo Healer & a Fuze Block mounted under the seat. So, I'm interested in knowing where you guys mounted yours. Any pics would be helpful.

Hi Guys .. Loooong time no see. :-) I have a 1998 Viffer which had a prang so with the insurance money I have 'bought it back' AND got myself a 'new' 2001 model. Can I change over the ECU, Power Commander, K&N, and exhaust (Micron wide-bore and new stainless downpipes) from my 98 to the 2001? I know the 2001 has a 'closed loop' system with lambda sensor that I would like to ditch as the map I had for my 98 setup worked really well on the 98 (FiX) model. I know if I just fit the power Commander and other bits without changing the ECU it will get overriden via the lambda sensor and do nothing. Is this 'doable'? Thanks :-)

I was lucky to come across a mint condition Red 2001 with 12k miles. It only had two owners and just got serviced at the dealer. It has Heli Bars, Corbin Gumfighter,Zero Gravity and a Vance and Hines SR2 exhaust. My plan is to spend $2k to unleash all the factory "built-in" power and plus some well proven and reliable "add-on" power that will not drastically reduce the engine life. Plus another $1k for the good folks at DMR for suspension upgrades. it took me about a month to find and buy this bike, another week to get it registered and tagged and another month to find the parts. The first thing I did was send the Corbin seat back to Corbin to get redone like new. (In the meantime I found a like new OEM seat for $80 on ebay) Here is a breakdown of how I am spending the $2k on unleashing the engine, plus another $1k at DMr for beefing up the suspension for the added power. (Everything is ordered and on the way) 1. $400- Corbin Seat 2. $150- ECU (Germany) 3. $ 20- OEM Air Box 4. $ 60- K & N Air Filter 5. $500- Staintune (Australia) 6. $350- SS Headers (UK) 7. $300-Power Commander 8. $ 20- O2 Eliminator 9. $120- HealTech Gear Red 10. $160- RDMOTO shorty 11. $595- DMr fork kit 12. $420- DMr CBR shock 13. $350- Clutch Porthole 14. $350- Stator / Rectifier 15. $200- Barnett Clutch Kit First I will modify the OEM air box by cutting away and removing the flapper assembly and install a 2nd Snorkel in its place. (Also unplug the pair valve) My theory is the snorkel is necessary, the flapper is not, so by adding a second snorkel it will add power without compromising the underlying purpose of the airbox design. Next steps: 1) Remove headers & exhaust 2) Install catless full system 3) Remove ECU 4) Install Euro Spec ECU 5) Install gear indicator 6) Install Power Commamder 7) Load Fuel Map file Start bike..... 8) Install DMr fork kit 9) Install DMr CBR shock Go for test ride.... 10) Install Barnett Clutch 11) Install Thurn Motorsport clutch case window 12) Install Thurn upgraded Stator, with Rectifier relocation mount kit. 13) Install Thurn Rear Hub Cover 15) Install RDMOTO short reach clutch and brake levers. IMG_4171.MOV Nov 5 Update: Now that the headers are installed, the double snorkel (no flapper)air box mod with a fresh K & N filter and adding 3oz Lucus octane boost every fill up. Still waiting on Euro ECU to show up before I do any new fuel mappings. DMr suspension kit has shipped. Also waiting on 2nd engine clutch cover. First job is to switch out the stator with a $50- el cheapie china stator so I can get my OEM over to Gerhard, along with the engine case clutch cover. As far as riding the bike all week, its starting to really open up ?? IMG_4198.MOV IMG_4213.MOV

A while back I put a thread up about how I am still learning what the previous owner did to my bike and how I am slowly uncovering it. I'm at the point where I feel I know enough about the bike's mod history and I've done enough on my own to look into tuning it for better performance and longevity. What's been done: Two Brothers exhaust (came with bike) Gutted cat (I am 90% sure bike came like this since the exhaust smells strong) Power Commander 3 USB (came with bike) PAIR Valve block off (did myself - bike popped BADLY and it fixed it) O2 sensor eliminator (just resistors - did myself) I am wondering if there are PCIII maps available for the kind of modifications done to the bike, or if I should just take it to a tuning shop? Additionally thinking about added a cat back in, if it was removed - the bike sounds great but damn that exhaust is strong and I feel like it stays on you for a while after you ride, not so good for riding to an office. Or wondering if a tune to identify if the bike is rich to begin with and then leaning it out would help.

Hello All, I've been looking into getting an exhaust for my 2004. I was looking to decide between the full exhaust from Delkevic or slip on DS70s. My friends said that I'd also have to run a power commander to re-map the AF ratios when deleting the CAT, whereas with the slip-ons I wouldn't need to. Anyone know for sure? I'm not really interested in forking out $900 on an exhaust and PC for an extra few horsies.

I am stumped.. I've read a lot on the PCIII USB process and resulting issues, but I haven't found anything clear on a solution for mine. ..Looking for some help. I installed a used but good condition, PCIII USB on my clean '03 VTec. I also did the 330ohm, 1/2watt resistors in the male ends (harness-side) of the O2 sensor wires. I checked to make sure they are in the correct 2, of the 4, pin connections. After installation, I got the FI light #24 error.. (Faulty 3/4 (2nd) O2 sensor heater). I ensured the O2 elim resistors were "resisting" the right amount with my voltmeter and compared to one of the DynoJet eliminators that I bought for a good deal on ebay. Everything looks right, and I used the dynojet eliminator to make sure the connection stayed good. Then, I did an ECU reset to clear the codes, using the service pin "jumper" method, but the codes still remain. I've fiddled around with the eliminators since then to eliminate all possible positions and variables, and I plugged into the PCIII to make sure it had an active working map, running. ..Still can't get rid of the code or issues. It's running a little rich and slightly off (35mpg's and not as smooth as I expected with the Cozye or PC map). Also the code went from 24 to 23 (Faulty 1/2 (1st) O2 sensor heater), and sometimes the FI light just stays solid for a bit. Any recommendations on what to check next? FYI notes -good battery -VFRness recall performed already -two brother's stash can exhaust -left the O2 sensors in and tucked the cables -only 8k miles and barely used bike

I have a new to me 2003 honda vfr800 with leo vince slip ons and not sure of any other mods. It came with a PC III USB. I purchased the bike after the previous owner had let it sit for a few months. I ran seafoam through the first couple of tanks. I was getting low mileage (mid 20's/gallon) so I figured it may be the map in the PC III. The original owner had it dyno'd to his specs and the bike was pretty fast ( i uploaded it to the download section on the forum so others can take a peek, too!), so i figured he had it tuned for performance. I loaded the generic map for leo vince slip ons from the power commander site and got about 5 mpg more. So my questions are the following: 1) is there any map that will give me some better mpg? I don't care to go 100+ mph, but would like the reported mid 30's low 40's everyone else seems to enjoy 2) Is the cozye map everyone has a boner for good for my needs? 3) Would a zero map be okay to run with the slip ons? 4) Is resetting the throttle position in the Power Commander software helpful if a bike has been sitting for a while to kind or reset a "0" point for the rest of the mapping? I am very new to a larger bike with more complexity (my first was a suzuki tu250x). I have an appointment with a shop in a couple of weeks for a tune up. Perhaps my plugs and air filter are not so happy right now and that could be the reason for decrease in mpg's. I'm also getting new tires then as well, that may also help. I know it's a lot to ask, but I'm trying to do right by my investment. Thanks in advance!

A little background first... I've been riding about 8 years now; started with a 2005 Ninja 500, then 3 years ago I made the move and upgraded to a 2002 VFR800. I was looking specifically for a 2009 in white/black (as I find this to be the best looking bike on the road), but when I saw a 2002 painted in that exact color scheme (!!!) on Kijiji for about half the price the 09's were going for, I knew what was going to happen next... and 2 days later I own a 2002 VFR800! 43,000km or so, currently at about 54,000km. 'Mods' when I bought it: - Repainted in '09 White/Black, no decals on the bike - all logos are airbrushed - Carbon Fibre-ish gas cap cover - Carbon Fibre-ish mirrors - Carbon Fibre-ish barends - Carbon Fibre-ish tank pad - Black Double-bubble windscreen - LED license plate bolt bulbs Mods to date: - Carbon Fibre-ish triple cover - Clear front signal lenses - Heli-bars - Pro Grips - Power Commander 5 - Corbin Seat - Honda Factory Sidebags - Fiamm Freeway Blaster Horn - Battery Tender Jr SAE harness (and BT SAE->USB adapter for charging) - RK Gold XW 520 Chain conversion with steel -1+2 sprockets - EBC HH sintered rear brake pads - De-snorkeled, de-flappered, PAIR removed JUST ADDED: - Autotune - Aftermarket clear/red taillight - "Chrome-dome" turn signal bulbs - full amber glow, only chrome tipped not fully dipped, but when off show silver when facing bike (in transit) - Gear indicator (cheapy Chinese eBay unit - have not finalized the pickup locations as my forks are still off, need to get it on road to test it) - Volt meter (eBay cheapy from China) - SpeedoDRD to correct changed gearing and factory inaccuracy - 6sigma PAIR blockoff plates - VFRness - Ricks R/R - Jamie D rear shock (CBR600F4), fully adjustable cartridge kit in forks - Replaced carbon-fibre look barends with OEM black barends - Replaced carbon-fibre look mirrors with OEM black mirrors - New starter relay / connector / wiring (due to melting, see thread "crispy starter solenoid") - Went through every connector and as much wiring as I could access to ensure nothing else is burned/melted/needed to be replaced. Dielectric grease ftw - New rear Pirelli Angel GT - Replacement OEM Honda spark plugs - Chinese adjustable/foldable black/titanium levers Mods to come: - 8 spoke 90-93 rear wheel (working on finding one) - Sebspeed clear clutch cover - Staintunes (possibly) - Rear OEM topcase (possibly) Its been a fun winter of farkling... If anyone wants details on install of any parts, or any specific pictures, post up or PM me! Pics (taken today 07/04/2015)

Hello, I've had my Y2K VFR for a couple of years now and decided to try and squeeze some extra performance out of the stock engine. I've been reading through different posts over the subject and decided I wanted to go with a custom ram air intake setup. I went to my local Honda dealership shop to see if they had any experience with something like this and they told me that it would be more trouble than it's worth, saying I'd have to get custom fuel maps and get it on a dyno or else it would run terribly. Which makes sense to me but because of how ram air intakes function, I wouldn't think a dyno test could be used to accurately tune a fuel map. So I was wondering if anyone else has much experience with ram air intakes as far as tuning and performance goes. Also, would a PCV with an Auto Tune kit remedy such problems?

Ok, so santa was nice enough to bring me a power commander V for christmas. Got it all installed with no issues at all. At the very end of the installation instructions it says the following: ______________________________________________________________ Optional inputs: Speed input - PINK wire of 3 pin clear connector located behind L.H. fairing PINK-GREEN-BLACK Temperature input - YELLOW/BLUE wire of 6 pin clear connector located behind L.H fairing. ______________________________________________________________ I have found those wires, but now what? do i simply cut them from their housings, solder on a length of wire that will reach the PCV, and plug it in to the corresponding input hole? or is there more to it than that?

The Rapid Bike Racing Kit is now in production and available for all VFR800 VTEC models. Confirmation of 5th and 8th gen use will be made later on. The Rapid Bike Racing features self mapping through the factory O2 sensors. It has full ignition advancing control, Advanced 18 way adjustable Quick shifter control, Engine braking adjustment and RPM limiter extension of 1000 RPMs if requested. http://rapidbike.us/t/categories/honda

Some of us are looking for fuel maps that can be used in an ECU re-flash developed by Don Guhl that resolves quite a few of the issues with the stock ECU, such as 1here is a thread on this subject http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/77723-don-guhl-ecu-reflash-on-2013-f-model-yes-it-is-awesome/ Sorry, my cat jumped on me and...well, the post was sent unfinished. Short and sweet, we need fuel maps for two scenarios: 1) stock, no mods. Hopefully, they correct any fuel issues, particularly in 1st/2nd gear. 2) minor mods. Slip-on, air filter (aka K&N) Preferably these would be Power Commander as Guhl has indicated he can easily import them, but Bazzaz or others May Aldo work.

Right, I'm sure someone else has answered my query somewhere on the net, but for the life of me I can't figure it out. Forgive me too, I don't know too much about altering the power of a bike. I have bought a 2010 VFR1200F two months ago and finally got it out on a south tour of UK last week. There were two things that were bugging me a bit; 1st & 2nd gear power slump, and slight on/off throttle choppy-ness when in 3rd at mid range revs. I know the power slump will easily be fixed by a Bazzaz Z-Bomb unit, at the cost of the gear indicator being wrong, but I can't figure out why 'sometimes' at mid range 3rd gear (or higher, at times) can be a bit choppy. I figure that installing a Power Commander will smooth this out, but does having the Bazzaz installed give incorrect readings to the Power Commander? Also, I've done some interwebs searchings and have come to the conclusion that a Power Commander isn't going to do much at all without the bike going to a Dyno for mapping, which is too much effort for me. Or am I wrong, by installing a Power Commander and Bazzaz with a stock bike (but with the stock exhaust flap constantly open) smooth out the power range of the bike? If so, how does a Power Commander work in that way without having to go to a Dyno, how does it know what areas would be need to be corrected? Ah, also... I'm looking into replacing the stock air filter with a K&N when it's due. I'm guessing that's going to help a bit too.

I just received my Rapid Bike 2 Module Friday and installed it yesterday. I've got some pictures and information on it, if anyone is interested. I already started a thread on vfrworld and I will post up the details here too if any of you guys are interested. The Rapid Bike module is a piggy back computer like the bazzaz and power commander but it has way more features and allows 3 dimensional mapping of both fuel and ignition curves. My Ignition map My fuel map

Have power commander on the my 1998 for over 3 yrs now. Just noticed the displays on the PC is not at 100% when the throttle is open 100% the Throttle is calibrated. The Software shows 100% but the PCIII shows < 100%. Any clues ?

I've looked high and low and the best price I've found on a Power Commander V (16-005) is $268.95 with free shipping from http://www.indysuperbike.com. Have I found the best deal or is there a better price to be had elsewhere? I'm open to buying used but it seems I can buy a brand new one with warranty for what most folks want for a used one.