elfreako

For all those who care, and those who don't.... still have the same issue, even after doing what was advised by DynoJet. Which was to remove and reseat everything, including the PosiTap, and set the higher voltage to theirs on file, which is 4.3v. Regardless of this, it didn't change the flat spot in the middle. So this time I did what was recommended on the Power Commander site, started it up, idled for about 5min, clicked Reset, wound the throttle all the way and back down again and clicked OK. But, that made the 0% go out just a tad, so I set that by using the left cursor arrow in the app, again. Now, I have noticed that if the engine isn't turned on, I get this flat spot, but when the engine is running and I rev it out, I will see an increase in throttle percentage. I guess the benefits on going to a Dyno place instead of revving it out in neutral. I have installed my Auto Tune as well and went for a spin to check that it works. Which, I'm glad to say it does, and I can tell by the trim it does throughout the throttle percentage limit. So my guess is that without the engine turning over, the readings won't update accurately. My 2p

This sounds to be inline with my blinking ABS light, which I really only noticed last week, but hasn't affected the bike once moving. Unfortunately I don't get to ride my bike often, and being left outside in the colder winter days (rain/snow, but covered!) I usually find I have to run a battery tender every 3-4 weeks. Even then, I don't have the ability to run it for more than 8hrs (crappy 'estate' living), so I don't get a proper charge out of it, just enough to keep it going.

Hi All, I've bought the Power Commander 5 and Auto Tune kit, and today have just installed only the PCV (ran out of time for the Auto Tune). I loaded a generic map just to see how it goes, but it's running way too rich. Smoke out the exhaust indicates that, and it wasn't happening all day yesterday before the install. I have noticed an issue with the throttle position sensor, which I tried to calibrate by powering on the bike (but not turning it over), setting the left side to what the current voltage read, then turning the throttle all the way up and setting the voltage to the right. It did help, but I noticed a weird flat spot at around 22%. Even thou I turn the throttle on evenly and slowly, it will go up to around 22%, then nothing for a while (I still continue to turn slowly) until about 90% open (I'm guessing based on how far my wrist has turned the throttle), and then all of a sudden it goes fast to around 100% fully open. Best to have a look at the footage I recorded, and bear in mind that my wrist is slowly turning the throttle and the voltage is jumping around a bit. Also, if you turn up the volume loud you could hear a weird 'buzz'-like sound at near 90% open, which it seems is the give way area to where it goes fast to 100%. Anyone have any thoughts on this I would love to hear them.

Does anyone know where I might be able to get/buy an eBook version of the service manual? Not one of those rip off photocopied manuals, I have one of those, and the images are almost useless (basically big black blobs)... unless someone has a copy where the images are detailed and descriptive? I'm not a fan of the old school paperback, these things need to move on with the times!

Agreed. I think that needs to come in quite a bit.

Found this on the Power Commander website: http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/products/AutoTune/powercommander_autotune.aspx " To use these kits your exhaust must have an 18mm bung installed " And came across the following from the service manual, which I'm hoping should be accurate and fit. All I would need to do would be to close up one of the holes once fitted.

Has anyone installed a PCV and Auto Tune on the 1200 yet? I'm curious if I need to weld a bung hole for the O2 sensor, or if I could remove the stock ones installed and use them instead. I'm not too sure if there's a size difference, hence why I'm asking. Obviously it would be great if I could use the already existing hole. I don't feel like going to a muffler joint to have someone cut one for me.

Bought my bike at 8,500 miles in May 2014, current mileage is 15,466 and performed the following: front wheel @ 9,374 engine oil & filter @ 9,386 front brake pads @ 9,660 final drive oil @ 9,862 rear wheel (massive puncture) @ 10,299 front right brake disc (left disc lock on) @ 11,448 installed k&n air filter @ 14,700 Kudos to Dae with 160,000km's. Helps set my mind at peace when I posted a question in the forum of how many miles will the engine last. I've booked my bike in for a full service in 2-3 weeks time. First time I will service a bike in the UK. They said it could cost up to £700, which seems quite a bit, but he did mention it could include brake pads and air filters. Anyone done a full service in the UK and have a better idea how much it would cost?