elfreako

For all those who care, and those who don't.... still have the same issue, even after doing what was advised by DynoJet. Which was to remove and reseat everything, including the PosiTap, and set the higher voltage to theirs on file, which is 4.3v. Regardless of this, it didn't change the flat spot in the middle. So this time I did what was recommended on the Power Commander site, started it up, idled for about 5min, clicked Reset, wound the throttle all the way and back down again and clicked OK. But, that made the 0% go out just a tad, so I set that by using the left cursor arrow in the app, again. Now, I have noticed that if the engine isn't turned on, I get this flat spot, but when the engine is running and I rev it out, I will see an increase in throttle percentage. I guess the benefits on going to a Dyno place instead of revving it out in neutral. I have installed my Auto Tune as well and went for a spin to check that it works. Which, I'm glad to say it does, and I can tell by the trim it does throughout the throttle percentage limit. So my guess is that without the engine turning over, the readings won't update accurately. My 2p

This sounds to be inline with my blinking ABS light, which I really only noticed last week, but hasn't affected the bike once moving. Unfortunately I don't get to ride my bike often, and being left outside in the colder winter days (rain/snow, but covered!) I usually find I have to run a battery tender every 3-4 weeks. Even then, I don't have the ability to run it for more than 8hrs (crappy 'estate' living), so I don't get a proper charge out of it, just enough to keep it going.

Hi All, I've bought the Power Commander 5 and Auto Tune kit, and today have just installed only the PCV (ran out of time for the Auto Tune). I loaded a generic map just to see how it goes, but it's running way too rich. Smoke out the exhaust indicates that, and it wasn't happening all day yesterday before the install. I have noticed an issue with the throttle position sensor, which I tried to calibrate by powering on the bike (but not turning it over), setting the left side to what the current voltage read, then turning the throttle all the way up and setting the voltage to the right. It did help, but I noticed a weird flat spot at around 22%. Even thou I turn the throttle on evenly and slowly, it will go up to around 22%, then nothing for a while (I still continue to turn slowly) until about 90% open (I'm guessing based on how far my wrist has turned the throttle), and then all of a sudden it goes fast to around 100% fully open. Best to have a look at the footage I recorded, and bear in mind that my wrist is slowly turning the throttle and the voltage is jumping around a bit. Also, if you turn up the volume loud you could hear a weird 'buzz'-like sound at near 90% open, which it seems is the give way area to where it goes fast to 100%. Anyone have any thoughts on this I would love to hear them.

Does anyone know where I might be able to get/buy an eBook version of the service manual? Not one of those rip off photocopied manuals, I have one of those, and the images are almost useless (basically big black blobs)... unless someone has a copy where the images are detailed and descriptive? I'm not a fan of the old school paperback, these things need to move on with the times!

Agreed. I think that needs to come in quite a bit.

Found this on the Power Commander website: http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/products/AutoTune/powercommander_autotune.aspx " To use these kits your exhaust must have an 18mm bung installed " And came across the following from the service manual, which I'm hoping should be accurate and fit. All I would need to do would be to close up one of the holes once fitted.

Has anyone installed a PCV and Auto Tune on the 1200 yet? I'm curious if I need to weld a bung hole for the O2 sensor, or if I could remove the stock ones installed and use them instead. I'm not too sure if there's a size difference, hence why I'm asking. Obviously it would be great if I could use the already existing hole. I don't feel like going to a muffler joint to have someone cut one for me.

Let me know when you find a place, I'm also interested too.

So I thought I'd finally update this topic for anyone that cares, or has the same issue I did. I managed to fix the problem in December, and it wasn't any of the parts that failed which people suggested. Instead it was actually the button that turns them on/off. I was fortunate enough to have my local Honda shop throw away some old heated grips they ripped off a customers bike. So I was able to use the left grip to test if it would work on mine, and sure enough it did. Hoping it wasn't the whole grip I would have to replace, I took apart the controller and put it on mine.... and VOILA! it worked. I was able to re-assemble the button controller and I am now happy to say that both grips now work fine. Thanks to my local Honda shop, they saved me over £200! Oh, and I couldn't identify what actually failed on the button controller, it still looked in good condition. Even cleaning with with some methelated spirits didn't work. I guess this also explains why it would fail after rain or a wash. Needless to say, putting the other one back on now, I have covered the sides in electrical tape to try and seal it better and prevent this in the future.

Sorry John, I've only bought the metal stem. I initially did charge them for the whole replacement mirror, but I couldn't justify wasting the rest of it when it was still in good nick. I picked up my parts from Honda MotoDen in the city. They said someone ordered a right-hand cover/plastics and then said they didn't need it. Perhaps if you speak to them they might do it at a discount rate?

Wow.... interesting to see all the different perceptions everyone has on this incident. Thou, I don't class any as right or wrong, just different. What's even more interesting is that I received a call last Friday from the company whose van it is, and they offered to replace my mirror without going thru insurance. I'm not too sure what changed their mind, but as long as I get my mirror fixed, I'm happy. You can see the part that snapped in the picture below, made out of cast metal, I believe. I have to replace the whole black piece, which is only about 10-15min of work taking it off, and another 10-15min putting it back on. Thankfully not that bad.

Thanks for the advice. He didn't actually stop to exchange details, I had to pull up next to him and tell him to pull over, and was reluctant at first, but eventually did. I kept my camera rolling for the entire time talking to him, just in case, as you never know how some people in London will react. I also called my insurer, and they said I don't have to report it if I don't want to make a claim, regardless if it was my fault or not. But then I fall into the trap of my premium going up and all that too. Hmmmmm.... I wonder when it comes time to renew my cover and they ask the question have I ever been in an accident in the last 12 months, will they have kept a record of me calling up and asking about how the claiming system works when someone took my mirror off..?

I live out near Maida Vale, and commute over to Canary Wharf. I don't do nearly as much commuting as I did the year before, I tend to catch the tube more as it's easy door-to-door travel. When I do, thou, I usually flick between 1st/2nd, with anything over 20mph being 2nd gear. If I remember correctly that usually sits me at around 3,000rpm, rarely would I ever break 4,000 because of the speed of the traffic. To give you a better idea of my fuel economy I've attached a screenshot of my fuel-up app that I use. I've been using it since day one, entered in every single fill up I've done (I'm a bit fussy like that), including all my servicing too (not shown).

I haven't bothered to read the 3 pages of reply here, but I'll give you my 2p anyway, so forgive my ignorance if something has already been mentioned. I also live in London, zone 2. I have to travel from the west to the east, straight thru the heart of the city on the ring road. My commute to work is just over 8 miles. I barely leave 2nd gear, and find myself in 1st far too much then I'd like. I get about 85-95 miles before hitting reserve, which I think is about 15L. Some days the traffic flows nicely or I'm riding at 6am in the morning, and I would get around 95 miles. Other days it's just crap and I'm weaving in and out non-stop, and I get around 80 miles. It's interesting that you say the pads drag, because it does it to mine too. I thought my brakes were stuffed, but every time I remove and clean the callipers and put the pads back in, they are fine for another week or so. That is until they accumulate more crap from road. I come from Australia and I had a Blackbird before this bike, it also used the dual braking system. I never had an issue with the pads dragging at all. However, I believe that the roads here are worse, not only from the condition of the potholes, but because of the constant light rain flicking up the very fine silt, dirt, crap.... whatever is on the road. I never had that issue back home, I also never had to clean my callipers either. So I think the accumulation of all this road crap just messes up your brake pistons, causing them not to retract fully into the calliper. Which is why I tend to pull my callipers off and give them a bit of a clean every 6 months or so. It's good to hear your story about your commute and experiences with the bike, as it pretty much lines up with mine.

I ran this video thru a number of people at work, and just like here the opinions on who's at fault vary. I can partially understand those who say 50/50, but I still don't see it being my fault completely when he had to merge behind me when passing the car turning right and the road goes from two lanes to one. I guess we can agree to disagree there. I did call his company, they looked at the video and obviously sided with him. They won't budge, and I'm guess their calling bluff, telling me to have this dealt with their insurance company, as they know it will cause me more pain than them. ....I was wondering how many people were going to comment on the guy just past the lights. Poor chap, at least that wasn't me. I'm not sure about anyone else, but I have been taught (and believe) to own my road. If there are two lanes going the same way, then stay on the right wheel track closer to the other lane (or the opposite way for those backward countries :P ). I do this to prevent people coming into my lane, and giving me enough space to move over if someone did try.