andy

Outstanding unique look. Mat paint or Plastidip?

Great Dropbox history. Mahalo.

Just means our VFR F is destined to be a classic collectible. Isn’t it already a “cult” ride?

Both the Red and White look great. While I was in the process of plastidipping mine, I had this look as well as using 20mm ammo cans till my saddle bags arrived. Where did the tank “wings” come from?

Although I’ve not ridden in a RR Phantom IV, I’m very satisfied with my VFR.

My 2012 6spd owner’s book says I can shift into 6th at 37 mph (60 kmh), but unless I’m on level road, it’s not a smooth ride. At this speed in 4th it’s very quiet and smooth.

The buffeting and noise is much, much worse than the stock screen that I’ve re-installed. Picture of the R&G frame slider and engine cover. Had I installed the frame slider first, I would not have needed the cover to hide the scratches from the tip over. Others have noted sliders that don’t require drilling the fairing so keep that in mind when deciding. Of course I’ve not dropped my bike since the frame sliders. I’d be remiss to note that I also switched to a LiIon battery that’s much, much lighter, enabling faster acceleration and quicker turn-ins or in my case enabled me to eat more deserts!

I got VStream tall and the buffeting, wind noise, etal is too much for me. I tried vents and a MRA-X to the VStream to no avail. I’m back to the stock windscreen with a MRA-X that’s still not what I want but much better than the VStream tall. I added a frame slider AFTER the bike fell at less than 2mph.

Great looking tip over bars!

I really didn’t think anything about my OE tires till I got a spike embedded and replaced them at 8K miles with a pair of Michelin Road Pilot 4s. The bike rode better everyday, confidence inspiring in the rain and with seven thousand miles, looks to last quite a while longer.

What have you got mounted now? Any problems and how long have they lasted?

Kits abound on the internet, but as a retired auto mechanic, the usual reason for the seal failure are cuts from corrosion in the master bore. It’s possible to use a purpose built honing tool or even wet/dry “sand” paper to smooth the bore. Prevention by replacing the brake fluid (absorbs water) at least every other year. Although brake fluid tends to get darker over time, clear/amber brake fluid doesnt’ mean it’s water free. Fluid from a sealed can is best.

Apply light pressure as if you were just at a stop light. If the lever slowly sinks, your master is failing. If you pump it hard the brake lever will seem normal.

Bike looks great! I may have to “tear” off my plastidip. Your seat tear is much worst than mine.