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Posts
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shift707's Achievements
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Looks like the forum comes through again! Flushed the clutch fluid and it immediately seems much better. I just ran to the gas station and back but it shifted so smooth! Thanks for all your input.
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Hello all, End of last summer I began noticing the shifting on my 2010 VFR 1200 was getting a little more clunky, particularly between first and second gear. I also had more instances where I ended up in neutral when trying to shift into second. I was due for an oil change, and once clean oil went in it was just fine again. Fired up this spring and after about a thousand miles I am noticing the same thing. It's not as if the gears are grinding and short of hitting neutral a little more often, I don't have problems shifting gears. It is just noticeably more clunky, and every now and then I can actually feel the clunk/shift through the clutch lever. Local shop suggested new clutch fluid, which I will definitely try when I have a chance. Bike has about 27,000 miles on it and I wouldn't be surprised if it was the original fluid still. Looking around the internet it looks like a failing master cylinder could create clunky shifting? It may just be the age of the bike, but I just want to make sure it's not something else that is needing attention. Just wanted to get every one's opinion and thoughts on the situation. Has anyone else seen anything similar? Thanks in advance.
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So awesome. Thanks to everyone that helped. Still think I'll take it in and get those two front plugs changed out, but I feel so much better now that the shop won't be tinkering around with it charging me money while looking for a solution.
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Grum, I think you might get the points here. Started out with the flooded engine cycle tonight. Had to go through it about 4 times but each time she gave me a little more pop and finally on the fourth try she fired up. Ran it for a minute and shit it off, started right back up. Even took it for a quick ride and she feels awesome. I have to say I'm amazed right now. It was that simple all along. I'll keep everyone posted if something changes. Only question I have is how it stayed flooded for a month? Was it the injectors that were flooded or the engine itself?
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Bump start was a no go. Tried that first, but I do have factory spare key I can try
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What is the HISS? And what would rolling the bike around do?
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Cool! Thanks! I looked at the electronic version in the manual quick and still don't see it. What chapter is it in?
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Hey Grum, I will need the shop to get the plugs replaced. I just can't get in there to get the coils out. Mechanic at the shop didn't seem to think plugs were the issue, but may just bite the bullet anyway and get them done. There are no diagnostic codes sadly. I don't have the tool to check for stored codes, but I don't recall it ever coming on while riding or in the garage. I did take an extra motorcycle battery and use jumper cables to hook it to the battery in the bike last night (basically a jump start) and still no change. Everything sounded the same and still no pop. I did unplug the exhaust servo and try to start just out of curiosity and I managed to get a few pops, but after more research on the ecgr this seems purely coincidental. I can't find a flooded engine procedure in the manual, but I will attempt the procedure you wrote about earlier and see what happens. Pardon my ignorance in this, but if it had been flooded wouldn't it have dried out by now? It hasn't started in close to a month now.
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Checked all the fuses I could find tonight. They all look good. Also bought some small rubber tubing and hooked it to the fuel pump and ran that to a small container. When ignition is turned on the pump primes and when the starter is held the pump is sending fuel. I'm attaching a video of the bike trying to start. I feel like the starter sounds a bit different than it used to, but it could also be my ears playing tricks. Final question is in regards to this little servo motor for the exhaust flap. I've never noticed it moving before, and perhaps I'm only noticing it now because I'm looking for a problem. Nonetheless does anyone know how this works? Does it appear to be operating correctly? Just a few last long shot ideas. Otherwise it's headed to the shop on Friday. IMG_1391.MOV
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Yeah, always start with the obvious first right? Any recommended battery brands? Or just whatever they have at batteries plus?
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Haha maybe my big hands just don't fit in there. Sounds like if I do the rear ones the shop would only charge me for the front ones. Probably just going to have them do the fronts. The battery tested just fine at a batteries plus. I was thinking i shoukd have it tested at a different place to be sure.
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Yes, I have the service manual. I have the fuel tank and the air box off. The manual says just to teach in and remove the coils. The issue is lack of clearance between the front cylinders and the frame. There is so little room that I have to believe there is some unique tool to remove the ignition coils. Trying to pull a coil straight up, while reaching in straight sideways is just not possible.
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Tried to get the front spark plugs out today and as I figured they are impossible to get at. No way my big hands can get the ignition coils out. Anyone know if there is a tool to aid in getting the coils out?
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No kidding. What a small world. I'll have to keep an eye out for you!
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My dead spot is right at 3500 rpm too. Really annoying. I'm out in West Bloomington. Yourself?