masterkush

Thanks guys REALY appreciated!!!! I stupidly just end up getting stressed with anything mechanical or electrical and pretending it doesn't exist so have left the bike in the garage for three months. I must kick myself out of that habit. Non of you know how to fix a 3D printer by any chance as it's been a year since I could bare looking at it? LOL Seriously - Thanks 🙂

Bike 'died' - first indicators/signal lights then main lights and engine. Replaced battery, tested rectifier/regulator, tested alternator all OK. Tested for drain and it read 19mA for a a second then dropped quickly to 2.4mA which is above stated spec of 1.2mA. Repeated the test a few times and it did exactly the same each time if I gave it a minute - if I tested it again within a second or two it didn't show 19mA just the 2.4mA. Disconnected heated handlebar grips - (which don't work and just flash lowest value light no matter how many times you press the button) - no difference. Is this just the normal drain for my 3rd party immobilizer alarm? Was it just a failed battery and should I stop worrying? I teach and have a 20 mile commute to school so don't want to strand myself - teachers can't be late - I've also topped out my electrical knowledge as might be obvious. Thanks,

Does rectifier off a VFR800FiW fit a 2004? <<--- just that really.

Battery charging fine (now flattish as I locked it in the garage as couldn't face it for 3 weeks) and battery storage fine. The white smoke did smell quite heavily or burning oil but that did disappear after five mins of running and it had no smell of burning oil when finished riding. [I do a daily 12 mile commute with 5 mins of fast highway in the middle] I'll see who locally might be able to get the diagnostic codes - presume that will require a Honda machine/computer/interface.

Thanks .. no used regularly. The Fi light came on a few times over a couple of months but stopping and restarting turned it off. There is a definite smell of burning oil with white smoke when it starts but that goes away when run. I probably should have not ridden it when I got that but hoped it would clear up - it didn't of course it D'oh.

Hi Grum, The local bike shop will charge me $115 US to do a diagnostic and are two weeks waiting time already. Where could I start with the diagnostics? I'm a reasonably incompetent mechanic on 80's bike but the VTEC is s bit intimidating. Where could I start? Any links? Thanks, Mark

Hi guys .... My VTEC is sick. I don't seem to have used much oil or much if any water but my bike is well sick. After a 5 min run at 90mph it feels like a ghost is turnning my throttle off and then it stalled at the lights. What should I look for? (VTEC with 42k miles on the clock otherwise in excellent condition and mostly serviced on time.)

I have a blown replacement shock for my VFR VTEC (2005) which has already gone off to the makers and they have given me a 5-week turnaround I have a 'dead' VFR800FiW (98) with original and WP aftermarket shocks available .. can I fit either one? (even if it's not 'optimal' ) as I have to commute by bike and it will cost me $1000 in car fuel/parking costs extra in that time as well as an hour more a day.

Hi guys :-) I have a 98 with working fuel/time console and a 'new to me' 2001 .. how hard is it to swap them over? (I know that is a pretty subjective question - so more info .. I'm an 'OK maechanic' but really crap at electrics ;-) ) I do posses an electrical testing guage and a soldering iron but should probably not be let lose with them lol Thanks, Mark

Hi Guys .. Loooong time no see. :-) I have a 1998 Viffer which had a prang so with the insurance money I have 'bought it back' AND got myself a 'new' 2001 model. Can I change over the ECU, Power Commander, K&N, and exhaust (Micron wide-bore and new stainless downpipes) from my 98 to the 2001? I know the 2001 has a 'closed loop' system with lambda sensor that I would like to ditch as the map I had for my 98 setup worked really well on the 98 (FiX) model. I know if I just fit the power Commander and other bits without changing the ECU it will get overriden via the lambda sensor and do nothing. Is this 'doable'? Thanks :-)

Thanks again Jesse - you have addressed my confusion, thanks for that, it makes sense what you say - I'll try and focus :-) There is a 'Force 11' gale outside at the moment. Britain's worst coastal storm of the year so far. If I try and get in the garage I might lose the doors. The lifeboat volunteers went out last night too, brave lads, I cannot say I'd like to join them. I'll get to it as soon as I'm able. Thank you very much for your help. Mark

Thanks Jesse I'll try it. I think I have the multimeter set up right because I can get it to buzz when I disconnect the bullets to the rear brake actuator and get it to buzz when I apply it. Where I am really confused though is if I bridge ANY of the terminals that go to the bulbs at the rear OR the indicators they ALL buzz. Now that doesn't make sense to me as I know the indicators work but whether the ignition is off or on and they still buzz. Am I doing something stupid? (probably)

(on a 5th gen) My 10amp fuse blows straight away when I put EITHER brake light switch. The rear pedal or the front brake. So far I have: Blown 3 fuses finding out it happened with either front brake or rear brake. Taken the rear bulbs out. - still happens. (1 fuse) Disconnected the bullet connectors to the rear brake light switch - still happens (on front brake) (1 fuse) So.......... Got out a Multimeter and set it to BUZZ if it makes a circuit. It DOESN'T buzz when on the 2 bullets coming from the rear brake - until you apply it (So that is good right?) It buzzes across ANY and ALL of the terminals leading to the rear lights. Now I'm just plain confused - what next?????? Any help appreciated.