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I'm cutting and pasting some older post from VFRWorld, and then I'll update after --------- So, I bought a 2002 VFR800 the other day, as I've been looking for one since last year, but haven't been able to justify some of the prices out there. Saw one for a reasonable price, the guy said it died at a gas station, and he hasn't been able to get it to start. My buddy has a bike shop, and went with me to see it. It would turn over with a small jump pack, but would not start. At the time I bought it, it was downpouring, and he said he's pretty confident we'll get it running. He hasn't been around yet, and I've been working on figuring out the issue. So far, I've tried: - new battery - pulled a coil pack and plug, NO SPARK. Tested from the postive terminal to a coil pack, had 12v. (originally, I was getting .15, but was testing from negative to negative, which wasn't working out well for me) - removed the air filter, and have tried starter fluid. I've had occasional chuff, but that's it. At one point, it sounded like it was going to run, on starter fluid, but that was in the beginning, and have not had a repeat since. - removed the rectifier and diode tested it, which read correctly, but that really doesn't help if it is not running. The previous owner had it disconnected from the stator; I plugged it back in. Don't think there has been any difference. - unbolted the stator cover and verified that the stator is not cooked (appears to have been replaced recently) - emptied the tank, put fresh gas in it - checked and made sure the CPG was plugged in, although I have not tested it for resistance or voltage yet. - checked fuses (that I could find). Also looked at the bus bar, and, while the cover was disconnected, it did not look terrible from appearance. The one fuse cable pictured was pretty rough looking, and open, but still was testing 12v. When I turn the key on, it whines from the dash area. I searched in here, and checked, and the green cable on the blue connector on the left front looks good, and does not appear to be bad. I do not have a FI light on, until I try to start it. The fuel pump does not prime when turning into the "on" position, but when I press the start button, it turns on then. Here is a video of turning it on, turning over, and shutting off. You can hear the pump and the whine: https://drive.google.com/file/d/19Wyq9sDQK1zK5NLs_jMHOuN6PoqGHh--/view?usp=sharing Tomorrow, I am going to probably remove the nose and get to the tip sensor, as that and the kickstand sensor (I have it on the center stand, and have tried starting with the kickstand down and up), are the only two things left I can think of. So I worked on it some more today. I am attaching the photos. - pulled the common earth block, scrubbed the bus bar, if you will, and put it back together. From some posts on VFRD, this one has not had the recall applied--I have two green ground cables at the blue connector, and there is no punch 10mm over and down from the "J" in the VIN number. - removed the front fairing and headlights (what a hassle), exposing the relays and tip over sensor. Note: the first thing I removed was the mirrors, and someone had used vampire clamps to install mirrors with integral turn signals. For fun, I tried turning it on, to see if the turn signals worked. Much to my surprise, when switching to the "on" position, it stopped whining, the lights worked, and I heard the 3 second fuel pump prime. However, further work on removal, and it returned to the same problem, no prime, relay whining. - bypassed the tip over sensor. Still no luck. I also removed it, and shook it, and I can hear the ball rattling around in the fluid, so I put it back. - removed the right headlight relay. This eliminated the whine, although the hi-beams were not working either now. When both plugged in, I got the whine from both relays, and no working headlights. I think there's an issue in the headlights, but I am not sure how this is effecting my lack of spark. -removed all relays and diode, and visually checked all fuses, and tested the diode. I had .520 and .504 from either side when testing on the multimeter, under the diode testing setting. When reversing, I got OL on both, so the diode tests good. - I removed the headlight fuse, and, when turning on, no whine, and the fuel pump primes. - pulled #1 plug and coil, put plug back in coil, and turned it over to test for visible sparks. No spark to coil, and when contacting the engine, no spark jumping to engine, either. So this remains my main issue--no spark. I did not test the fuel cutoff relay, but with lack of whine, I am not as concerned, as when I pull plug 1 (the only plug I've pulled so far), it's wet with gas. Several times among this point, when getting the fuel prime, I would give the velocity stacks a quick squirt of starter fluid, and after several cranks, I will get the occasional "chuff" from one or several cylinders. I don't understand how this is happening, if I have no spark. I have also noticed some issues with the kill switch. Sometimes it takes one or two tries to get it to turn on after turning off the kill switch. This tells me there is an issue with it, and it either needs to be torn apart, or replaced. I put it back into the on position, verified that it'll start, and left it there. So, to summarize, I don't have any visible burn marks, do not appear to have the recall applied, several relays appear to either be bad, or wiring is an issue somewhere that I cannot see. When removing plug on cylinder #1, I see and smell gas on the plug, and there is no visible spark when turning over. Thanks. Here you can see the fuel pump turning on, no codes, and it chuffs when I apply starter fluid, but not for long: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AgI6E24SJkOQgVdyAXZFXemfD85uvVvG/view?usp=sharing Here is the earth ground connection, after brushing it. It already was pretty clean, but I did so for extra measure: -----------------

Hi everyone! I just joined this forum because I had a quick question. I am currently helping out a friend who owns a motorcycle shop in Wisconsin and we think these are parts from an RC30 but just wanna double check. If they are and anyone wants them please let us know!

$7800 I'm offering my beautiful Honda 750 V-4 Interceptor. This bike has a unique history — originally supplied by Honda UK as one of three Press Fleet bikes for the 1986 introduction of the new VFR Interceptor. Accompanied by a white and a red example, these three bikes were used for road tests, magazine shoots, etc. When that assignment was completed, a staff member of "Motor" magazine, Rex, requested to purchase one of the bikes. Honda agreed, and Rex chose the blue — this very bike. The following year Rex accepted a position with Ford in Detroit and shipped the VFR to Michigan. After lots of bureaucratic haggling the bike was successfully imported with a Michigan title. Rex kept the bike for the next 37 years and 18,000 miles till he offered it to me last year with the promise that I would refurbish it for its next 37 years and find its next caretaker. This VFR: With 18,161 miles, this bike has had a full mechanical and cosmetic refurbishment. My goal is always to retain as much originality as possible while bringing the bike as a whole up to whatever standard I can achieve — in this case I would put it at a 9 out of 10. ALL of the mechanical systems are inspected, repaired, replaced, rebuilt; whatever was needed (a partial list is below). Cosmetically, I chose to professionally repaint the wheels and both large side fairings along with several small parts. The rest of the paintwork is original, to my knowledge; color-sanded, buffed and polished. The bike has a few small flaws, which I photographed as well as I could and are included in a detailed photo album (see link below). The seat vinyl wasn't up to the rest of the bike so it was professionally recovered in the correct color and texture. The electrical system is inspected, cleaned and works flawlessly. This bike has the Euro handlebar switchgear with a few extra features, compared to the US models, and several other differences. The only significant modification are the aftermarket SuperTrapp slip-on mufflers. To import the bike, Rex needed to replace the mufflers with US-spec mufflers and in the ensuing years the originals were lost. These SuperTrapps are in near-perfect condition with hi-heat powder coat on the black pipes and many hours spent refurbishing the aluminum mufflers. They are tunable and I have the additional discs to allow future changes. And they allow that unique V-4 music — they sound great. My background: I've operated V4 Dreams (.com) for the past 15 years, rescuing and re-homing classic V-4 Hondas. This bike is #42 and will be one of my final projects. Included are all the importation documentation, my work & parts receipts, original UK owners manual, tool kit, Clymer service manual and two keys. The Illinois title is clear and clean, in my name. Some of the service items: Carburetors rebuilt/tuned/synced Spark plugs Valve adjustment Compression check Oil/filter change w/Honda oil Hardwired stator connector Full silicone coolant hose replacement w/Honda coolant New tires; Bridgestone BT46, original sizes Rebuild forks with Progressive brand springs Upgraded steering head bearings All hydraulics fully rebuilt; brakes, clutch Venhill stainless brake lines, in black OEM fuel petcock replaced, new fuel lines/filter Many misc. fairing fasteners replaced Disassembly to frame & engine, full detailing No disappointments, contact me with questions. Thanks for your interest. Joe joe.nelson@ymail.com Photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBv3u8

I've ridden Monitor Pass on California's Hwy 89 many times, usually eastbound. Here side-by-side video from my 2003 and 2014 trips, on my '98 VTR1000F and '09 VFR800. The timing was close but I tweaked the clips to better synch them. The early trip used an analog camera recording to a Canon Hi8mm camcorder, while the latter one used a V.I.O. POV.HD setup. Eagle eyed viewers will note the pass looked a lot drier in April 2014 than in July 2003. Click the link: Monitor Pass - In Stereo!

I just created a Facebook group for those of us that ride in the Driftless region of Wisconsin. https://www.facebook.com/groups/204699877660244/?ref=share

Hello everyone, Im new to this forum, and i had a question regarding the ignition system. I would really like to know how the ignition system works because i want to instal a custom iggnition/efi system(for now i want the ignition only) with vw coil on plugs. Now for this to work I was told that these system needs a cam trigger input in order to use it on a odd firing engine. Now is my question how does original ICM know when to fire in the correct sequence when the triggerwheel rotates twice when both cams rotate once, if i know how they managed to do this I might be able to imply this on the custom ICM greeting Connor

Hello everyone, Im new to this forum, and i had a question regarding the ignition system. I would really like to know how the ignition system works because i want to instal a custom EFI with vw coil on plugs. Now for this to work I was told that these system needs a camshaft input in order to use it on a odd firing engine. Now is my question how does original ICM know where the camshaft will be if the tooth wheel that provides input for sensor wil rotate twice when the camshaft is rotating once. Or does the ignition run in a wasted spark. And perhaps how i would be able to imply this into the EFI. I hope someone can help me figure this one out. Greetings Connor

Read an interesting article today. The VFR is in this top 10. https://www.visordown.com/features/top-10s/top-10-motorcycles-yesterday-are-now-todays-pure-classics

As the title states, gen 4, 477xx miles. Good michelins, carbs just done, plugs, oil, filter, 2ndary air filter. Clean bike. Bought from second owner who had it for 20 years. Has upgraded RR, but not vfrness. Charging system works as it should though. Text me for pics. five 4zero327ninetyonehundred

SOLD 35,589 miles High mount Dan Moto exhaust Custom Repsol paint scheme Custom Repsol decals (brand new in package) Corbin seat (super comfy!!!) Passenger sissy bar backrest Headlight modulator VFRness R/R wire harness HBC EE sintered brake pads Center stand Blue neon accent lights New Shinko Raven tires (April 2019) Regulator/rectifier (May 2018) New air filter (June 2020) New fuel filter (June 2020) Chain and sprocket (Nov 2016) Anti-theft system w/fobs (uninstalled) I'm the 3rd owner. Former MSF instructor. Always changed the oil at the end of the season with Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w40 and treated the fuel. Always kept tires at 36/42psi. Always kept the battery on a trickle charger (I recommend it). Always garage stored. The 8 spoke rear wheel is actually from a Gen 4 VFR! Rare!!! Asking $3250

I decided it was time to share my work in progress, a '92 VFR build - codename: "Vianca". This is my first foray into modifying/building a motorcycle and it has been quite the learning experience thus far. Without the help of communities like this one, DIY'ers like myself would surely be lost. Background I bought the bike from a guy off Craigslist for $1000 along with another project bike - a Honda Magna VF500c (my next project after this one). Two running bikes for under $2k - I was pumped!!! The VFR was done up as a streetfigher with some CBR parts (subframe, 929rr front-end) and overall ran pretty well, but needed some work. It was involved in slow low-side and it was suffering from the results of that lay down. It would have some trouble starting every now and then (starter clutch) and had a really loud knocking sound (heres a Youtube video of the sound), so those would have to be addressed. In addition to that, I wasn't a huge of the styling, color choice and especially the exhaust sound - way too ratty for my taste. After viewing some Youtube videos of what these bikes can really sound like, I knew immediately I wanted a deeper tone, but more on that later. Here is how she sat when I bought her: Planning & Inspiration Before setting off into the build I wanted to have some semblance of plan so I wouldn't spend a fortune trying to decide on a design direction. My overall goal for the bike was to simply swap out a few things here and there to have a roadworthy machine that looked decent and was reliable for the next season. That plan lasted maybe a whole two days - thanks internet. After seeing what some of you guys have done here on these forums and finding inspiration builds like @SEBSPEED and @apexandy I knew I wasn't going to be happy with a little tweaking - I needed...the full monty...within reason, of course. Ultimately, I found myself gravitating towards the speed triple and ducati monster look, so I decided that my best bet was to mock something up in Photoshop. I am familiar with the application (web designer by trade) so it was going to be the easiest way to see what I really liked. About 20 minutes later I had a rough idea thrown together: I am 100% sure this will change as the project evolves and if I can achieve even 50% of what is pictured above I will be beyond happy for my first build. Juggling work and a young family eats up the majority of my time, so the build gets my attention only after the kiddos are down and obligations are met. With a basic idea and mock up it was time to begin tearing her down. The Teardown (WARNING: Lots of Pics) With a Honda manual in one hand and wrench in the other, the teardown began! Seat off and checking things out Bye bye CBR subframe Poor frame was hacked up to bits Feeling naked now! Mmmmm...Carbs Carbs removed The source of that sound we all love! Crankcase cover removed...hmmm whats that? Upon closer inspection, you can see the cracks on the outer rim of the starter clutch. Additionally, those gold bolts were so loose when I took the cover off that they were about ready to fall out. Glad I caught this before something really bad happened. Houston we have a problem. Remember that "clackity-clack-clack" noise? Yeah, I found it. Blowing out lighters all day long. Also, check out that other bolt...WTF!? Hahaha Front cylinder head removed. Gonna need a bigger bench! Score! Picked up a Harbor Freight lift for super cheap and threw on a beefier wheel chock. Much easier to work on the bike this way. Removing the shock and Two Bros left-exit exhaust system. These pipes have seen better days. Trying to clean them up a bit. Its no sand or vapor blaster, but its helping. Hey, not too bad! Nice to have some helpers around the shop! Scored a Ducati Monster 696 seat on the cheap. Thanks Ebay! Was so excited I had to mock it up real quick. I like the way this is looking. Time to tackle the swingarm Current State That pretty much brings us up to speed on where the project is at this point. I am waiting the specialized tool to remove the castellated swingarm nut (another Ebay special), but I may get tired of waiting and just fab one up from an old socket and use the special tool tighten everything up properly. After that its on to cleaning things up and addressing the front end. Lots to do! I will try to update this thread as often as I can for those that may be interested, but feel free to follow along on via my Instagram account here - its easier to post quick updates with my phone then to rummage back through photos. Happy building!

I came across this short story about the birth of the VFR. I tried to copy the link but it copied the link to the Cycle World app. It's in the 4th edition of 2018.

Hi! Name is Cale. For sale I have a 3rd owner, has roughly 34,000 miles. Purchased it with 20,000. Always maintained, in fantastic condition. This bike has been nothing be great to me. Multiple trips from central indiana to Smokey Mtns, Ridden the full Blue Ridge Parkway on her as well. Wanting to get into track days and the VFR just isn't for it 😕. Looking to sell or trade for 600cc or daytona/Speed/street triple, dropped/lowsided is OK! Contact me on here or via text 765-432-0602. **Can send more photos if needed! Milage will continue to increase slightly as I can't keep myself off of it when the weather begins to get warmer. $3000 OBO! Add-ons: - Two Bros. Slip on (have stock muffler as well - TPMS - Power Commander 3 - HELI bars (stock bars are installed currently) - VFRness (haven't needed to install it) - new brake pads (EBC) **small scratch pictured that was attempted to color match by the 1st owner is the biggest flaw

This video popped up while I was holidaying in Japan. The sound of the V4 is fantastic.

Ok. So I believe I have found the leak from my carbs. It seems to be that the fuel joint gaskets (Items #7 circled in red in the photos attached). The problem is that my Clymer's book doesn't tell how to disassemble the carbs to this degree. It just says refer to a local dealer. I do not have the money to pay someone to repair it at the moment so I am going to attempt it myself. Does ANYBODY out there have a manual or web link that may have step by step instructions, with photos if possible, that I can refer to in order to get this completed? I have the new seals/gasket sets just need the know how. Thank you for any of your help.

Hello to all, from Portugal, Been riding a bike since 1994. Riding the sexiest bike of them all, since 2002. RED VFR 800Fi (1998) Regards to all.

Hello all! So I did this mod a couple years ago and I've absolutely loved it! I originally did it to my first vfr800 which was a silver 2003 non-abs model. I put about 17,000 miles on that bike with about 8,000 - 10,000 of those miles after I did this mod. Unfortunately I was in an accident and the bike got totaled. I skipped between a couple other bikes but eventually bought myself another vfr! My lovely white 2006 abs viffer I currently ride. I swapped the aftermarket rear wheel from my old bike onto the new one right away and I've put 3,000 miles on it since then! If done right this mod works amazingly! I trust my bike any distance on any road, from the city to highway, and even the mountains to the canyons! Rain or shine! When it comes down to performance, I've never noticed any less after the mod was done as compared to stock. With the new rim I went with and the wider tire, the rear wheel for me weighs about 3 pounds or so more than the stock one did, sure That may make an incremental difference to a very experienced track rider but these bikes aren't designed for track only use and they are far from the fastest bikes out there, so to me, the extra weight is well worth the look! And again all that being said I've never noticed any kind of performance loss, I've burned trough my chicken strips with easy and the bike seems to have all of the get up and go that it did before. So I definitely recommend this mod! Before doing this mod I referred to many of the other forums where people have discussed this. And I took a little bit from each of them to get it done. I still recommend reading through all of those as well as this one to get as much of an understanding of it as possible. The biggest problem for most people was finding a good rim that worked well with a motorcycle tire. I don't remember exactly what brands, but there are some brands that you definitely want to avoid and others that are very safe to use. I found that out from reading those other forums and hearing how some people struggled while others did not. This issue comes from the fact that you are using a car rim with a motorcycle tire and they aren't exactly designed for one another. That being said each rim manufacturer varies somewhat from one another so some rim work great while other not at all to mount the tire to. The rim brand I went with is NinjaWheels, and the exact rim I bought was the Ninja NJ11. My tire guy had to use a little extra elbow grease to get that tire on there but it went on without any problems and hasn't caused me a single issue since! Now the rim I bought was a 17"x7" rim with a 40mm offset. This offset was too large to fit center when mounted to the hub. So in order to correct the offset, a spacer was necessary. I took a spacer I already had and had it machined to fit my application. I drew up some specs for it in the picture below. Its a 20mm spacer with the 4x100mm holes drilled for the studs to go through and the center cut out in a way to maintain strength and cut weight. (This particular spacer also had 4x114.3mm holes drilled in it that are unnecessary). It may be worth noting that this 20mm spacer was required since the rim used was a 40mm offset. If you choose a different rim with a different offset, the spacer and stud length will need to be adjusted accordingly. With the VFR, I wanted a good sport touring tire, and with the rim being a 7 inch wide rim, my options were limited. That being said I found an amazing tire (that I've bought again for the rear and the front) which is surprisingly, the Shinko Verge 011. Now yes, you dont got to tell me twice about the general perception of shinko's, I know that alot of them are just trash, BUT NOT THE 011 VERGE!!! Haha Since I was searching for a 200/50r17 tire, the Verge kept popping up as one of the few sport touring tires offered in this size, and after reading countless reviews almost entirely 5 star rating, I was sold enough to give it a shot. Now I've used dunlop Q3's and Pilot Road 4's before and they are both amazing tires, but the Verge is honestly just as good! It's a dual compound tire so it's center offers incredible longevity while the sides are very soft and sticky allowing for excellent cornering in the twisties! Plus it does absolutely amazing in the rain! And on top of all that, you just cannot beat its price point of ~$140! Lastly, since you are using a spacer for the rear rim you will need longer wheel studs to account for that. I went with ARP Extended Wheel Studs. Now I used 12.5*1.5 wheel studs that were 2.5 inches long but I ended up having the cut just a little bit off of the tips so that my lug nuts could secure all the way tight. If you can find 2 inch long wheel studs those would probably work, but for the peace of mind that you have as much threads in there making contact with the lug nuts, you can do what I did and just remove any extra as necessary with a hack saw. Also, With this specific rim, there was not enough space for normal lug nuts to fit so i bought a 4 pack of splined lug nuts with the special splined socket that came with it. These are slimmer in profile and fit into the lugnut holes into the rim perfectly. This may or may not be a problem for you depending if you bought the same brand rim as me. One thing worth noting here is that the rear wheel studs are pressed in and will require you to take the hub (once its removed from the bike) to a shop where they can then use a hydraulic press to press out the old studs and press in the new ones. There are ways to do this at home but with this sort of thing I didn't want to risk messing up anything or damaging my hub, so I had a friend at a shop do it for me. After all of that the final thing you need is to slightly modify you chain guard by cutting off on small part of it so it will not rub on your rear wheel. The wheel will have about 1/4 inch of clearance between it and your swing arm when its all done and tight. The slight modification done to the chain guard can be seen in the picture below. Summary List of Parts Used: Ninja NJ11 Rim, 17"x7" size, 40mm Offset, 4*100mm bolt pattern 200/50r17 rear tire, Shinko Verge 011 Custom made, 20mm thick, aluminum wheel spacer (as seen in pictures above) Extend ARP Wheel Studs, 12.5*1.5, 2.5 inches long (with some of the tip of the bolts removed for secure fit) Slight modification to the chain guard (to eliminate any wheel rubbing) The exact process of doing this mod consists of: 1) With the bike on its center stand and in first gear (and possibly with the help of a friend holding the rear brake) brake loose the large hub nut on the left hand side of the swing arm 2) Remove the rear wheel and real break caliper 3) Remove the large hub nut on the left hand side of the bike 4) Loosen the chain bolt and then put all of the slack in the chain 5) Pull the chain off of the rear sprocket and let it hang down onto the ground 6) Pull off the left hand side of the rear hub assembly (the big bowl like piece the sprocket is bolted to) 7) Slide out the rear axle/hub out the right side of the swing arm 😎 Replace the wheel studs as described above 9) Reassemble in reverse order of the steps described above with the new wheel And here's Just a bunch of pics of the bike with the wheel! Please wheel free to ask any questions or comment below! 

1999 VFR800FI Excellent condition. Always stored inside. Died while riding. Not enough battery to restart. Bought a new battery and got it 1/2 mile home. Next day it started once, then did not have enough juice to start again. Turn key and things light up normal. Multi meter shows 12 volts, but during first start and run, no change in volts. I expected a rise to 13-14. Still show 12 on meter. Somebody point me in the right direction. Previous owner remarks 07/10/15 "Replaced voltage regulator with R1 Shindigen FHA-012. Rewired connections from stator to regulator and ran voltage regulator to battery with new wires."

Last summers August adventure had already started, (see previous blog post) I had made my way to my uncles house in Boise after spending a restless night in Ogden UT, a place I am not so impressed with - being that it is the home of the IRS, or at least that is the place where I sent my tax returns? I was surprised at how pedestrian the place was - not nearly as nice as SLC just south of there, but not ugly by any means - its just the opposite of Colorado the mountains are on the east side! I am used to them facing the other way, but mountains none the less, I dont quite feel grounded without mountains within sight. After a ho hum meal at the restaurant next door, I decided to forgo any evening entertainment and just hit the sack and get up early and get to my uncles place in Boise, shoot I already wrote about that part - Albion Idaho - I should note the restaurant I like in Albion is called the Sagebrush Grill, I got it wrong about 20 times on my last blog post. In any case I made to my Uncle Lonnies place and we spent a day together catching up with the goings on in the Mayo clan, him? ~ not so great just another one of the many many folks in the "land of the laid off" currently looking for work, hes an IT professional who formerly worked for the state of Idaho as a contractor, that's the worst part about contractors - the contracts run out. So we went over to his favorite bar and shot the breeze for several hours and I met most of buddies. It was nice hanging out with Lonnie, I have never really spent that much time with him before other then Christmas and Thanksgiving surrounded by everybody else in the family. So the next day I had one more solo trip up to Coeur d'Alene. Thats a name I cannot spell to save my life. I always have to google it first! Coeur d'Alene, Coeur d"Alene - freaking frenchy names get me every time! Just like the Cache La Poudre in Colorado, just means lots of snow! They can make a turd sound good, or Grand Tetons - you can guess what that means! French place names always seem to resolve to something usual. Oh but NOT Coeur d'Alene, that was a name given to the local indian tribes by French fur traders and it means simply Heart of an Awl. Hey for once a name that has some thing a bit more interesting, it means "heart of an awl"? They found the locals to be shrewd traders apparently, but the indians they called themselves by the name the Schitsu'umsh which brings us back to stupid names again, it means (The people who are found here) aww jeez! I might as well be called "fat dude on a bike"! So I found every twisty road that lies between Boise and Coeur d'Alene on the map and took it, I headed a bit backwards at first going up to Idaho City on hwy 21 a great twisty road that finds the tightest twisties just south of Lowman Idaho. The road is a bit bumpy and in need of repaving on spots, lots of repairs but I took it fast, catching and overtaking several bikes along the way RV's and what not, I was having a good time on that road - then I turned west at Lowman and headed along a river bank, winding along with even more cars and RV's - it was the weekend and it seems all of Boise turns out to go to the mountains - that road was too short and soon I was on hwy 55 heading north to McCall, a good road if it where not for all the traffic! Thats the main road north in Idaho so there really is no getting off it, just plug away - I found it useless to pass the cars since there was so much traffic up ahead I was just wasting energy, it was more then I could see, once out of the mountains and onto the high plains the highway department slapped up 30 mph signs all over the place for 40 miles as they chip sealed the road - of course not on the weekend so NO CONSTRUCTION CREWS OUT but the cops were - handing out tickets for speeding over 30! I just sat behind a car that had gotten fed up and took off, I hung back far enough to save myself if the cops should see and well a rabbit is a rabbit is a rabbit, let the coyotes get the first one out of the gate! It was like this all the way from the point I turned off to McCall, all 64 miles of crawling along at 30 miles per hour, I was going insane! Finally in McCall I pulled off for gas. At gas stations the Veefalo seems to be a draw with its beautiful lines or some say ugly lines! I had to talk to every idiot who had never seen a bike before in their whole lives! Already irritated by the 2 hour ride up there - the obvious questions and idiotic warnings from total strangers about how "dangerous motorcycles are" - proved to be more than I could take. I retreated into my helmet and pretended I could not hear what they were saying to me. Hand gestures to my ear - just get back into your car woman and leave me the hell alone! Yea yea OK I will ride safe yea OK thanks - as I sat there waiting in line behind the next guy for a free pump, trying not to notice she just stuck a cell phone up to her ear as she drove off. Some people don't understand that unsolicited advice to a motorcyclist is not welcome! Especially if your going to get in your car and drive off with a cell phone to your ear! I hit the Detour button on my GPS since McCall was a total parking lot at Noon on a summer Saturday, I found an offshoot road to the west and was so glad to be free of that nonsense! I was a bit exuberant when I found some twisty roads just west of town and got on the gas and started to dip the bike into the corner, just in time to hear my Radar detector go off and a sherrif flashed me with his lights as I went past at some twice the posted speed limit! OPPS I saw him begin to turn around but I rounded the next tight turn and got on it hard! HEH the sight of open road ahead sort of shot down my hopes of getting away but to my surprise NO SHERRIF was behind me now? I guess he gave up and did not want to do any paperwork, its one thing to hit it in tight twisties and another to try to get away on a strange road that is strait as far as I can see! I thought I was toast! Well that was good for a thrill and it certainly took the foul mood right out of me, a scare can do that for ya! I was happy to be alive and enjoying the open road again! I pushed on up to Coure d'Alene at a better pace, I found a great road called Greer road, after Koosia pass I was really finding some nice roads now, Greer road Cavendish road all northern Idaho roads seem to be pretty good. All in all it was a great day of riding minus that McCall Nonsense, I had a good day soloing, but I was ready to ride with friends, I made it to Coure d'Arlene in one peice and thats where I met Radar, Fay, Craig, and Didit. We were about to go on another great adventure in the summer of 2011. Full Size Stay tuned next up - the Spiral Highway, stators, Rattle snake grade, Enterprise - ALL OF OREGON.

Almost exactly 20 years ago I traded my VTR1000F for a spanking new VFR800. Both were first year models, and the first ones to arrive at my local shop. Over the years I've gone back and forth between VFRs and VTRs. It may be heresy to say so but my perfect bike would be a 5th/6th gen VFR with a VTR1000 motor. First pic is trade-in day, second is atop Sonora Pass, Cal., en route to the 1998 WSB races at Laguna Seca.