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First off I’m completely new here so I hope I’m going about this correctly and posting in the right spot. Ok so about 2 weeks ago I went and hit the triple nickel in Ohio (state rt 555) and on my way back I came out of the store and my fuel pump wouldn’t prime which has happened in the past but not for years after repairing the burnt fuse connection so I wiggled some wires and said a few prayers and got her to prime again but then it still didn’t want to start. Had to feed it some throttle to get it to do anything and still all it wanted to do was only barely stay running on 1 cylinder and I had to hold about half throttle just to do that. After letting it sit for another 10-15 minutes or so I went back out to try it again and voila magically it started right up and ran perfect for the 200 miles i had to ride to get home. Turned the bike off and restarted it with absolutely no trouble probably 5 or 6 times on the way home but now it hasn’t ran since, just wants to only run on one cylinder now and only with lots of throttle input to get it to do that. Smells kinda flooded like that raw fuel smell afterwards. Pretty sure All my grounds are good, I just went thru the ones under the tank and the harness recall has been done. Switched ECU’s also with no luck…. Any ideas? Seems like it almost has to be wiring related. ANY info/help will be GREATLY appreciated!

Question for the group, I'm going to wire up heated grips and a phone mount with a built in charger and I want the power to turn on and off with the key. somewhere someone talked about installing the positive directly to the battery and the negative to the accessories hookup on the left side of the bike under the fairing, I'm hoping someone better at electrical can point out the pros and cons and if there's a better way to hookup my electrical accessories. Thanks in advance and here's a picture of my VFR1200F just because

02 VFR ABS, recently in an accident. main wiring harness replaced The bike will randomly completely lose power momentarily. Everything will shut off, including the dash and motor. When the dash powers back on, the clock resets and the speedo resets to KMH. We measured 14 volts charging a couple days ago. Replacing the battery did not fix the issue. Now, after a random shutoff, the dash will light up but the bike will no longer start. It feels like there is not enough voltage to turn the starter. Measuring the voltage with key off had 12.2 volts with key on and engine off measured at 11.5 volts bike did not start and did not crank fully What could be the issue here?

My buddy's bike got into an accident and we need to replace the main harness. I was wondering can I buy a 06 main harness on put it on? I know there are ECM differences after 05 so that is why I am asking. ABS model

While I was riding the motorcycle it lost throttle response. Upon trying to restart the bike it would crank but not restart. Moving the engine cut off to on or off clicks a relay and allows the starter to engage but the MEL does not illuminate for a couple seconds (as it should) and the fuel pump does not prime. The motorcycle can crank forever and not start. Thus, I have reason to believe the ECU is not turning on. Any pointers on this ECU issue? Has this happened to anyone else before?

2004 w/abs with 60000km (Canadian model). During brisk acceleration the engine completely loses power momentarily. It's an intermittent occurence, it's happened in first, second, and third gear. It's like grabbing the brake for a split second, enough to jerk me forward. The tach goes to zero and then comes back and it continues to accelerate. It seems like the bike momentarily shuts off. I did have one occurence where it completely died and I had to restart. I suspect a bad ground but I have no idea how to diagnose an intermittent ground issue like that. The FI light is not on nor flashing. It seems to be running normally in all other respects. Battery has good voltage and charges normally. The battery ground is good and the multi wire (20 pin) ground connector, which is grey on my bike and not yellow or orange, is clean and has good grounds. I have the vrfness installed and a Rick's stator and R/R which are almost two years old. The plugs are one year old. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Had a thought about using the 4th unused connection/terminal on the Starter Relay to Main Fuse A. This mod will share the load current through TWO terminals not just one and hopefully never cause the burning, high resistance connections so many owners have experienced. - Firstly Remove Main Fuse A. - Make up a lead with similar gauge as the existing Red wire, and crimp a spade connector to the end, the same type as per the existing ones, insert the lead into the spare hole of the Red connector. Splice/solder the other end onto the existing Red wire and insulate it. A good spray of CRC-2-26 electrical lubricant or equivalent into the connections would also help. - Re-Install Main Fuse A. Check out the two drawings attached. If you're not up to doing the mod yourself, any good auto electrician could do it for you. Sorry I no longer have a 6gen so can't provide better how to do it info or photos of the mod coz I've not done it! Cheers. Wiring as is. Wiring After Mod. The 4 Connections at the Starter Relay. NOTE - The two terminals closest to the 30a Main fuse left and right are the relay coil connections Yellow/Red and Green/Red wires. The two others are connected to the Main Fuse. Red/Wire.

My bike had to sit for a year while I dealt with family stuff, but I'm back at it. GRUM gave some great insight, and I've tried your suggestions. This was my latest status: - The problem seems to centre around the engine stop relay. With the key turned on, I get 12+ volts at three of the terminals: Black, Red/Orange and Black/Purple. I get 0.0 volts at the Black/White terminal. I also get 12+ volts at all three wires at the Engine Stop Sensor (BAS). This was GRUM's response: You appear to have established a faulty BAS, OR its wiring. As mentioned the BAS provides the Engine Stop Relay coil Ground via the R/O wire through the BAS to the Green ground wire of the BAS. Without this Ground line the Engine Stop Relay cannot energize. Your statement " I get 12v at all three wires of the BAS" should NOT be the case, the Green wire of the BAS is GROUND! In fact the same Ground wire the Fuel Pump uses. You should ONLY be seeing 12v on the BAS at the W/Blk wire in normal operation. With your voltmeter black lead ideally on the Negative Battery terminal and your red voltmeter lead probing the BAS Green wire you MUST see 0v. If NOT then unplug the BAS and make sure the Green wire is properly connected to Ground as it needs to be (continuity check to Ground). Irrespective of your meter results MAKE SURE the Green BAS wire is properly GROUNDED as this appears to be your Main fault. To verify your Engine Stop Relay works you can simply probe a temporary Ground wire to the R/O wire. With Ignition On you should hear the relay energize and hopefully your Fuel Pump Prime! As previously mentioned. You will NOT have any volts on the Black/White wire until the Engine Stop Relay energizes, that's it's job! So I got a brand new BAS and I still get 12 volts at all three wires (Green, R/O and WH/BL) I can only have two plugged in at a time or the fuse blows as soon as I turn on the key. I cut the Green ground coming out of the BAS connector and wired it straight to the frame with a new, heavier gauge wire to test it. An impedance check of the R/O seems fine. With the BAS connection undone, I cut the R/O wire before the BAS connection and using a lead wire ground it to the frame. The fuse blew as soon as I turned the key. Any thoughts?

I started my bike this weekend and it appears that both of my headlights are out as well as the left side front signal. And, the "High Beam" indicator is lit up blue as if the beams were on but it won't turn off. Surely my headlights didn't both fail at once and cause this? Anyone?

Well, I hope this sheds light on things and helps people with their electrical woes... hope it helps me too hahahaha. :blink: My bike's history: 2003 VTEC (Spain: so no wiring harness nor stator recall) Installed VFRness around 55000 km. 1st stator fried at around 65000 km Replaced with aftermarket stator. Short time later R/R fried (dead battery put me onto it... stator readings were fine) Replaced both 2nd stator fried at 75000 km Replaced with OEM stator and replaced R/R (aftermarket) and battery (YTZ14s) just in case. Few days later the stator-R/R connector fried. Cut out the connector from the equation and hardwired stator to R/R. 85000 km (just the other week) I was going over the electrical system and noticed the 3 yellow wires dowstream from stator-R/R connector (that is to say: between this connector and the R/R) getting very hot... disconnected it to take stator readings... fine... connected it back up and it started to smoke... shut off bike and curse Mother Honda and the horse she rode in on. Discovered that one of the yellow wires was so hot you couldn't even touch it... the others were relatively cool (they will warm up, this is normal, but usually you can keep hold on them for several seconds at least... even longer is better). So my question to myself and fellow VFR buddies was... R/R or Stator?? An engineer friend of mine who deals with this stuff all day long had the brilliant idea of pulling the hot one and taking readings to see if at least this might get one back home... it probably would work if you disconnected one headlight and were real smooth on the throttle as the rectification of the AC volts would no longer level peak voltage into a smooth DC wave... and if you're radiator fan weren't coming on all the time (i.e. cool ambient temps)... and you didn't spend too long with the motor idling.... anyway, this is just a long-way-from-home desperate-act-of-survival tip... So, in order to eliminate R/R or Stator as the culprit, we swapped the order of the wires around... let's call the female half of the connector (stator side) F and the male half (R/R side) M... so wire-wise we have the stock order of F1-M1, F2-M2, F3-M3. The M side wires are the ones getting hot and we had removed these from the white plastic housing and stuck them into the female housing in a different order... previously F1-M1 would get hot (well, really M1, but M1 connected into F1)... if we rearranged things, as in F1-M2, F2-M3, F3-M1... then if F1-M2 were the one heating up, the rpoblem would probably reside in the stator side of things... but actually F3-M1 was the one getting BBQ hot... so it was fairly certain the R/R was fugged... While we were at it, we decided to check out the (famous over here in Spain) BYC... bit like KFC... Big Yellow Connector (read "Kentucky Fried Connector")... this is a reasonably large yellow connector through which a whole bunch of ground wires run, in the front subharness... it's not really large in size, but there are 12 wires running through it... each of a different thickness (guage)... three thicker ones and the rest are puny. This connector seems to join all sorts of ground wires (seemingly from sensors and the like) but with the surprising effectiveness of an ashtray on a VFR. Nill, null, zero, ziltch, none and sweet f-a effectiveness. It's a piece of crap and hardly creates any decent connections whatsoever. So we eliminated the connector, twirled the ends together and wrapped another section of cable around this (to bolt the other end of this to ground on the chassis) and soldered the lot with a torch solderer... I can say my VTEC transition and Fi system in general is running smoother so this probably means the ECU is receiving proper readings from sensors now because the surging issues had been getting intolerable lately. I'm currently running a second hand OEM R/R a buddy lent to me for the meantime... Although I picked up, courtesy of Josh (Tightwad) at Wiremybike.com... the supposedly YOU-BEAUT mofset supercool R/R unit... so I'll be installing it this weekend to see how it goes... thing is it doesn't have the B&W feedback... so wondering if I should wire in the one from the VFRness (which I currently have completely disconnected) or not bother... I'm getting a stable 14,3 V with the 2nd hand OEM R/R... battery reads 12,9... Seems OK but it used to give out 14,6 V... before all this. Keen to try out the Mofsetter... 'cause I'm about to give up on the VTEC forever.... hope this helps people... Link to 5th gen equivalent: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/66045-urethra-i-found-it/&do=embed&comment=773553&embedComment=773553&embedDo=findComment#comment-773553

Has anyone seen, or know what this randomly capped off plug is that is taped to the connector for the instrument cluster? I haven't found a wiring diagram that lists what it is

So I rode my bike into work and when I went to start her for ride home. Seemed like my battery was dead... no problem there’s a jump box... famous last words... I get bike started and ride home about ten minutes. Park. Next day go to start bike. No power. Smh look down and notice my harness from ignition and start stop switch are melted and grounded out... uh o... well it’s early spring and I had just put new tires on and recovered my saddle.... so I’m thinking I’ll band aid this and just re solder ... pull everything off start soldering then decide, maybe cheap is not the way to go... So I order an aftermarket ignition (still being cheap... fu*%&$) And put it and a used switch back on. Nothing no power lights at all.... Look at main fuse looks ok. Look through ignition info that came with it, realized that this ignition works w vfr but not wired/connected as such... unplug, finish soldering original toasty ignition. Plug in, Nothing... Well that was last year... Fortunately I have another bike so I was able to ride at least part of the season... (on my bike I don’t have a new set of tires on :(. ) So my question is.... 1.What might I have f’d up either by using a boost box to jump? 2. By shorting out with improperly wired aftermarket ignition 3. Other than main fuse any other fuses or electrical components I should test first? rectifier? computer? Thanks for any insight. Much appreciated!

Noticed it flickering yesterday before I pulled away but it went out so thought nothing. This morning I start and ride down the road and put my headlights on and the bike stalls. FI is constant no flashing. Bike has power but it seems voltage drops and kills the engine. Using either brake the light comes on dim. Brake and headlight result in engine stall. Fi LIGHT turns off during pre-ignition and bike is fine without headlight. I installed a new RR after I heard a bee like buzz from the front. What should I start checking. I have a volt meter and grounds seemed fine a few months ago. Could it be a relay? How can I check those? Thanks for any help. This forum is invaluable for those of us with older bikes.

I recently acquired a 1993 VFR750. Little rough, but good price and figured it'd be a nice project bike. I'll link the thread that the previous owner posted trying to figure it out, but basically he let it set for a couple years, and when he got back to it, the ugly starter clutch was problem arose. After he replaced it, it cranked over fine, but no spark. Since then the ICM and pulse gen coils have been replaced, and we have both been through all the troubleshooting in the manual, and still nothing.

Yes I know there are a thousand comments about the electrics on this bike and I have found great info in the past. This time I'm out of time and patience. 2005 VFR800 ABS VFRNESS installed, recall completed, new battery stator and r/r replaced previously. Symptoms are similar to everyone else, no light problems. intermittent battery fails to charge. crispy main fuse b wire and hot VFRness fuse. I have tested the wires themselves and all seems fine. OK, Here is the drill Volts Idle-14.41 5000-14.41 ?? Stator (Engine off) A-B .3 B-C .2 C-A .3 Stator to ground All infinity Stator Engine On Idle A-B 19.XX B-C 19.XX A-C 19.XX 5000 A-B 73 B-C 72 A-C 68 R/R (following this video) positive to Stator A 1.68 B. 1.68 C 1.68 Neg to Stator A .434 B .434 C .422 Reversed leads Neg to Red A .429 B .433 C. 434 Neg to green A OL B OL C OL I have a new stator and R/r and battery harness on their way. Would like to do fewer things than more. One week until 5 day trip.

Hi all My 2005 ABS has got no headlights, no hi beam, buzzing hi beam relay, no front turn signals. Problem started with blown left headlight and then a day later relay buzzing and another day later no lights. All other electrics appear OK. I've done the usual visual checks and cleaned switches with contact cleaner and swapped Hi/low relays out but no change. Any ideas on where I go next? Thanks in advance

Last year, I found that my 3BR Powersports Tapp 2 Power Outlet (USB Power) was draining my battery due to parasitic draw. I knew that the answer was to move it to switched power, but I wanted to implement a solution that could overcome relay failure as well as a fuse failure. I"m not an electrical expert, my soldering is pretty sloppy, so I was hoping for plug and play, and a solution that would support other things such as an STS turn signal controller. This is going into my 6th gen.

Hi All. Don't want to state this too soon, but after 46,500k's and the bike now 3.5 years old, all appears to be working fine with the Electrics. Honda seem to have solved the crispy stator burn ups previous 6gen owners like myself had become so used to. To my knowledge there has only been one known issue under warranty with an R/R that was causing slow battery drain and buzzing! (See "Parasitic Drain" thread by Jad2477). I fitted a voltmeter to the bike a few months ago and have been very impressed at the voltage stability irrespective of load and rpm, a very constant 14.5volts, even at idle with the heated grips on level 5. Guess you can put this down to the new stator (made by Hitachi), very efficient new type R/R and the low current drawn by the new LED Headlights. Just for Info. Cheers.

Hello every one sorry for my poor english I bought a vfr750f 1987 3 month ago,it was dissassmbled and the engine was off for about a year.no spark unit no ometers then I bought the spark unit from ebay and installed the wiring. ignition switch,clutch switch and nutral indicator works the the engine starts but it wont spark how can I make this engine run I want to use in on a buggy

Hello All, I had a problem with my VFR. I was riding home from work last and it started backfiring and feeling under powered. Also when I get on the throttle it surges and feels as if it loses torque. Especially in the higher RPM's it happens. Around 6000+ RPM it will surge more frequently and lose torque/acceleration. It seems to me that the RPM should also climb a lot quicker then it does. It will also backfire during compression braking, holding RPM and accelerating in the higher rpm. It usually runs aroun1000-1100 RPM at idel but now it idles anywhere from 1000-900 RPM I know it's not a big difference but it was enough for me to notice. Here are the things I have done to troubleshoot/Fix the problem. 1. Checked the primary coils and secondary coils. (Within Service Manual's Ohms range) 2. Checked the pulse generator (Within Service Manual's Ohms range) 3. Checked the Ignition Control Module and all test were negative. 4. Bought & replaced old spark plugs with NGK spark plugs. (I did not do a leak down test because there is no smoking or oil smell in the exhaust, Should've I done one anyway?) I am starting to wonder if this is a carburetor issue or something else with fuel mixture or delivery. Come to think of it the fuel pump does project a loud repetitive clicking sound every once in a while. I really hope that it is something besides the carbs. It terrifies me just thinking about taking those off. I have the original service manual which shows excellent visual and verbal instructions. I have just never dug that far into the bike before and it makes me nervous! If any of you have any suggestions on what to do please let me hear them. It will be greatly appreciated and Thank you in advance.

Randomly, my motorcycle's gauges and headlights (but not the turn signals) will die. Afterwards, I check the fuses and the meter/gauges 10 amp fuse has blown. This has happened 4x now and I've already tried isolating the problem by trying different actions to try to cause it. I can not reproduce problem via the brakes, shifting, brights, turn signals, ignition switch or kickstand. I've taken a picture of the back of the gauges because I know that the plastic circuit board can sometimes bend and sever connections. I do not see any breaks, but I did see some dirt on top of several rows of circuit lines. I've since cleaned the dirt and have not had any problems testing in my garage, but I'm not convinced. Do you see anything of immediate concern? Do you know of the best safest way to clean the board? I gently used a soft towel.

So I picked up a USB charger with a 12v that connects directly to the battery. In the process of that and some other work, I ended up killing the battery, and I do think while boosting it, ended up seeing this behaviour but writing it off as a depleted battery (and still could have been). Tonight however I can definitely say that it was not a dead battery. I picked my wife up from work and everything was working swimmingly. Powered the bike down while waiting for her, and when we got on, I put the bike in neutral, kicked up the stand, clicked in the starter button and BAM, headlamps out, clock off, instrument panel off. There was absolutely no power to anything. When disconnecting the unit to troubleshoot, I noticed that the negative lead screw was a bit loose, thinking that that might have caused the issue, I tightened it and tried again, but there was absolutely no power to the bike when I turned the key on. I disconnected the unit altogether, connected the battery, and voila! As soon as I turned the key, lights and panel were on, and the bike started up like a champ. I'm curious as to what might have caused this. The charger has an inline fuse, but even if that blew, I would guess that only the charger should power down. The cable is tied to the hard metal lines that run inside the frame, inspected the wiring and there's no exposed wire. Even if the unit is a piece of junk, what would cause the bike to just lose power when it's connected. If I had blown a fuse or something, I can't imagine that the bike would be fine once it was disconnected. The battery wasn't drained as the starter cranked over confidently when it was just the battery terminals that were connected. Also, when you connect something to the battery, should you connect it over or under the terminals? Would it even make a difference?

I hate electrical problems! So after winter hibernation bike starts and runs fine except when I connect the battery leads for my heated gear (coax) or charger (SAE plug). It doesn't matter which is connected to the battery. Dashlights work but when I hit the start button, I lose power. Turn the key off and on the dashlights come back on but dies when I hit the start button again. All is good when I remove the leads so it's just the battery and VFRness connected. It worked before and I'm not doing anything differently from before. What could it be? Any ideas?

Hi Guys, I purchased a universal Mosfet kit from Jason at motoelectrix for my 06 vfr. My question is about the extra red,red/wht,grn and black wires coming out of the orginial Honda R/R. Where do I reroute these wires to in the harness, do I just let them lay because they are Batt and Grn leads back to the battery or do they go other places ?