The Phantom

Actually a very good idea Rick! I'm pretty certain the two spacers on my R1 front axle are titanium. A solid metal axle is going to add a good bit of weight to the front end, and lower unsprung weight is one of the bonuses of Frankenviffering so it's worth trying to preserve that.

I'll see what I can find about that on www.r1-forum.com if Donny confirms he has radial calipers. I have already been given some good info by the guys there. You're referring to the pre-radial caliper R1 right? As the radial caliper R1 has rather large rotors compared to the VFR... So do you reckon the RC51 fork prices have been driven up by Vifferatsi? Surely there's not enough of us doing these mods... maybe there's been a spate of RC51 crashes lately.

Donny, are they radially mounted brake calipers? That's what the R1 got in 2001. If so, they can't be bolted onto the pre-2004 forks. See the two images I posted earlier in the topic...

Donny, If you are using the R1 front wheel you will need to make or source spacers for the axle - the R1 tripleclamps are 210mm fork centre to fork centre, whereas the CBR/RC51 triples are 214mm. You'll need a 2mm spacer for each side of the front wheel. The axle diameter is 22mm. It follows that you also need to space the brake calipers* in by 2mm on each side so they line up with the rotors. * I'm using the radial brake R1 front end so I need to space the rotors rather than the calipers. If you are using the VFR front wheel then spacers etc. are a whole new, err, ball game :lol: That's where Vfrrider might be able to help you out (I'm not sure whether he's gone for the whole R1 kit). Rob, the 2004-06 R1 forks are 725mm, or 28 5/8". I'm pretty sure that 929/954 Helibars or ST3 bars are my only option, there won't be any fork left above the triples for clip-ons. Will know for sure tonight :thumbsup: Edit - whoops, fixed mistake (I said Donny would have to space the calipers out, rather than in).

You can use a 929/954 lower if you're prepared to mod or move the oil cooler. Vfrrider is your man, he's just about got his sorted.

And while on this, it's worth pointing out that both the CBR929/954 and RC51 lower triple will work, but the CBR one is likely to foul the oil cooler - RC51 gives more clearance (it's gullwing like the CBR upper).

Excellent work, and a good write-up - thanks for sharing! That's a mighty big oil gap, but obviously it works. 9k wet/dry??? Wow, you must work in aerospace or something : )

Never heard that, not to say that it's not true. But chances are that this is how things 'used' to be, and coating technology has come a long way in recent years. Nyalic ('Everbrite' in the US) is guaranteed not to go yellow. Also, if it's damaged (scratched), you can remove it with laquer thinners and reapply, or even just paint over the scratch! It's self-levelling, and the new coat chemically blends into the old coat. It really is amazing stuff. Apparently developed for NASA, it's a big hit in the marine industry. An aerosol can (which is what I use) costs $55AUD!!! It's the big can, but still, I baulked at the price for a while. Then I needed some for another project (Falcon GT steering wheel restoration) so bought it, and as soon as you start spraying you realise that this can sprays like nothing you've ever used before. It's like 50% of the cost went into the aerosol technology, no kidding. The VFR of aerosols : ) The product itself sprays like water mist, very light coats only are needed. Shelf life of Nyalic is indefinite so long as it's properly stored.

Are they the disc wheels? They are made in Australia. Get some Nyalic and clear-coat them - no more polishing.

Good info there, Bent. Some questions for you: 1. What's 'brite dip' anodising? I take it it gives a more polished look than normal anodising. 2. What's on the frame of the 4th Gen? and what's the best way to cut through it in order to polish the frame? In Oz we have a few companies that strip and nickel-plate wheels - looks good, like a cross between the harsh look of chrome and the soft lustre of polished aluminium, has a bit of a gold hue to it. Pricey though. I've had my wheels fully polished since 1999 and they still look good, just need a bit of work from time to time. I recommend California Custom Purple polish for the most low-effort/high polish result around (and believe me I've used a lot of polishes). I have some Nyalic now and will coat the wheels with it when I get around to cleaning them up again, Nyalic is one of the better clearcoats available.

How's your technique? You need to: 1. Put foot on centrestand tang and push to the ground 2. Right hand under lifting handle above left pillion peg 3. Left hand on left bar Now simultaneously push down with your foot, pull up on the lifting handle, and pull back on the bar. Normally this should result in a smooth controlled lift onto the stand with very little effort. As you are lifting higher the effort required will be more, but still manageable. Edit: forgot to say, nice work on the sidestand mod!

These, and performance full header systems. I'm looking into the possibility of getting my Indigo full system replicated, I'll see about having the Wolf riser pipe copied too (virtually any canisters could be used).

That too would look trick. Rob, do you have a full system? Something I neglected to mention is that there is a lot of scope for really tidying up the undertail area. You can see in the pics I posted that the new inner fender runs right back (in the last pic I'd cut it to match the rearmost section of the subframe). Originally it was to run past that, and then down to become a bracket for the rear bodywork/lamp. I've still gone with that, however the bracket in question now bolts onto the rear of the new inner fender. In addition to this there is also a bracket that locates the twin canisters - the Wolf bracket was rubbish, as was the plate bracket. Pics to follow.