enzed_viffer

Great work, Mr Seb! :thumbsup: Looking forward to updates. :rolleyes:

What an excellent write-up that was! :thumbsup: Having replaced the CCTs on the VTR1000 I had before my current bike (which was a piece of cake, compared to this), I'm really glad I didn't listen to the wife and buy a VTec.

Meh. I forgot I'd raised the fork tubes already, and did it again, ending up with a total of 14mm. Oops... And I shimmed the rear shock as well, by 5mm. It handled fiiiine! But it's better now, with my overlength Elka (effectively shimmed more than 5mm), and about 1mm on the front. I used a piece cut out of an aluminum heatsink, which happened to be 5mm or so thick, and right-angled. This allowed me to hold onto it while putting the slotted bit in, and also that helped to hold it in place while tightening the bolt. Plus it was nicely painted!

Hey, that was really kewl! Thanx for that, Mr V4 Rosso! :thumbsup:

Like Tightwad said: "the regular safety mechanism that prevents it from starting in gear would be in place". The bike itself won't let you start it if it's in gear, and the sidestand is down and/or the clutch isn't pulled in.

I may find this to be the case. After cutting I took a file to the edge and it is very smooth and looks very good. I put the lip cover on just b/c it was supplied by MRA. It may have to go. I was interested to look at the screen on a friend's Suzuki RF900. Whereas the VFR has a moulded beaded lip that sticks up into the airflow (and thereby creates potential/real turbulence) the RF has the bead on the underside of the screen, where it still supplies rigidity but not at the expense of aerodynamics.

Good work! :thumbsup: Just a suggestion: if you find the new screen has some turbulence off it, take the bead off the edge. I guess you've put it there to cover the cut edge, but you should be able to get that smooth with some very fine sandpaper. I found with my VF500 that taking the beading off made a big and very noticeable difference to the turbulence over the screen. I did this after reading an article about Alan Cathcart test-riding Aaron Slight's RC45 and another one (John Cozinski?) and finding that the beading Aaron put on his screen so he could see the edge and wouldn't hit his helmet on it made for much more turbulence. So, I took mine off, and Bingo! (A game for old people.)

Yeah, I found this too. The frame is scarily thin and flexy, unlike the FPR, which seems to be made to military specs. <_<

There you go: we have it in writing, so there's no excuses now. :mellow:

And I bet Murray Duncan (and his twin brother Duncan Murray) still calls himself a VFR rider... :blink:

All The Gear, All The Time. Those indicators are just SO dumb. When I dropped the VifFerraRi after fitting the replacement confirminators, it was very heartening to note that they weren't even scratched. Bad luck, Adam. Hope the repairs aren't too expensive, and I hope you have no complications.

50mm spacing on the Aprilia mirrors - same as 5th gen Honda OEM. I mounted them without spacers and I think they look great but not very useful for actually seeing behind you ala Franco in The Gumball Rally. Oh - and a belated reply to AB's question - the Suzuki's are 50mm too, I believe.

WOT????? NAE NACA'S??????? :rolleyes: Frayed knot. There was actually very few scoops/vents/ducts available. The one he bought was a "Imprezza-style' one, in black-painted fibreglass. Afterwards I had a look on the Interdweeb and there were very few available, and all much dearer than the (what we thought was outrageous) 150 UnZud ShekelDollars. The whole project was surprisingly expensive. It started out as his Peugeot 205 GTi having a hiccup, that I thought might be an airleak, as the bolts for his airflow unit had previously fallen out. It turned out that the intake hose to the airfilter was ripped almost completely through, as was the hose between the filter and the sensor. Our options were: Try to get a 70mm connector hose to replace the latter one + another hose that was 70mm at one end, and 60mm at the other, OR Replace the whole thing with just one hose and a pod filter. :thumbsup: Looked alright in theory, but ended up being a two-day mission for me. We (eventually) found a flexible 75mm hose+clamps ($35), a K&N pod-filter ($140), a straight connector we thought was chromed steel, but which was plastic ($13), the scoop ($150). Then we needed a replacement Bosch airflow sensor flange ($20), a grinding wheel for the hole in the hood ($4.95), some plastic clips ($30), some primer paint ($18), a piece of metal mesh ($1!), some epoxy putty to glue the mesh in the scoop ($14), some black silicon to stick the scoop on ($17), a sheet of aluminium for a heat shield(~$4). That's nearly $450! I'm sure that the Peugeot hoses (if we could get some) would've been less than half that, but he likes the "kewlness factor" of the big black nose in front of the windscreen. (He didn't think a lower-profile scoop or duct would've been as kewl...)

Well, I just bought some clips too, and I screwed up badly. I was working on my son's car in the weekend (chucked out all the intake hoses, and fitted a shorter flexible hose, K&N filter, and hood scoop) and the hood lining needed new clips. The standard ones were rivets (!) and the few that were left were corroded to hell. Anyway, he wanted to re-rivet the lining, but I thought the chances of getting some rivets with giant heads on a weekend were minimal, so suggested we buy some 'cheaper' plastic body clips. <_< Found some at the auto parts store, 6 to a packet, so I got a packet of 4 6mm "screwvits" while I was there. His 18 body clips were around $30, and my four clips cost me nearly $10. Would've been cheaper to get the Genuine Honda ones...

If anyone's thinking about getting the kit, make sure you do so before your gearbox starts to get honda-ish (y'know - tired, clunky, missing shifts, etc.)

I think the trick is to fill in the holes completely. I decided with mine that as I wanted to make it reversible (because there's a high chance they're illegal here), the trick was to not even bother to try to make them invisible.

Hmmm.. drawbacks... After dropping my bike the other day while braking/indicating/turning/opening the garage, I'm thinking I'll convert my garage door opener button to a missile launcher button, and hook the garage door opener to the headlight flasher. As I originally planned. <_< The right thumb doesn't need extra work to do.

In chronological order: 1. Dropping the CB175 I was test-riding, in the owner's rose garden. 2. Swerving around some pedestrians walking across the road, then dropping the bike in a patch of gravel behind them. 3. (Not a bike one, but probably the most embarrassing) Crashing my car into a tractor parked on the side of the road, as I turned to wave at my girlfriend as I exited from the driveway to her university residence, at 2:00 AM... 4. Dropping my VTR1000 and landing on my head, while hamfistedly bedding in the front brake pads that had just been fitted, just around the corner. What made it worse was it was right in front of some road workers. 5. I was headed home recently, after working late. My "mind-altering meds" had worn off, and traffic was heavy. I was lanesplitting up the inside of the traffic, when I came up to a large truck that was a bit close to the curb, and moving. I figured it was not safe to cut up the inside, in case I ended up squished against the curb, so in a flash of brilliance I shot up onto the verge, intending to detour along the footpath. Unfortunately, when the front wheel hit the damp grass, I detoured into the footpath, head-first. Luckily, I was not going very fast when I went down, so damage was limited to scrapes and scratches on the VFR and on my helmet. It was SO embrrassing picking my bike up though, and straightening the levers and cleaning the mud and grass off.

I got mine from a local electronics store. A couple of UnZud Dollarshekels.

When my '90 VFR750's R/R died, I just had the dealer install a new (aftermarket) one. When I had a look at the job he did, I wasn't too impressed, so I decided to "do the whole thing properly". First, I decided the RH-side location under the rear cowl was about the worst place (short of the exhaust headers) it could be mounted, so I remounted it on a piece of 3mm aluminum plate under the headstock (where the horn normally resides). Next, I reckoned that all that thin wiring and connectors were a bad idea, so I cut it all off, from the stator plug back to the battery. I then relocated the stator wires, so instead of coming out of the left side and running across the engine to the right, they came out of the left side. I cut these as short as I could (without taking the engine cover off) and connected in some large gauge wires from there to the R/R, crimping and soldering the connections before heatshrink covering them. (My electronics soldering iron didn't hold enough heat, so I used my leadlighting one). I ran one ground to the ground point on the water rail between the engine V, then the other back to the battery. It had two (2) positive outputs from the R/R, so I commoned them and ran a very thick wire back to the battery, via a 30A inline fuse. All connections were crimped and soldered, heatshrunk, and then I covered the whole lot in that split trunking and zip-tied it up. I can't remember for sure, but I think I got about 14.6V max, and about 13.2 at idle. Apart from the R/R, the whole job cost me only a few shekels. The hardest part was the soldering, but I fond that by wrapping the joints with thin electronics solder, and using lots of heat, it worked OK.

Like I said, that's what I used to do. I just remembered one of the reasons I wanted to do away with that - apart from PocketClutter - every time I bent down to do something like check my tyre pressures, the door would open/shut. Also, although the opener was water-resistant, and my jacket is supposedly 100% waterproof, it works by wicking moisture down through the fabric, so the pockets got a bit damp. Not the best for electronics longevity. Besides, it's all about the FARKLING!