JZH

It is, or course, the Yellow Peril. Ciao, JZH

VFRD/WiLD header group buy timing not good! Fingers crossed... Ciaom, JZH

Lookin' racey... Which 900RR swingarm did you end up using? The RRW/X version Ken mentioned? How much shorter is the swing arm? It looks shorter, anyway! Ciao, JZH

That'll do. Was the bike just positioned incorrectly on the roller? Ciao, JZH

I was going to refer you the my build thread "Beware the Yellow Peril", but it's so old it seems to have vanished... Yes, I still have it, but it is on my yellow bike in California, but I'm seriously thinking of moving it to Europe soon. If so, I will definitely be discussing some oiling system modifications with Seb! Ciao, JZH [Found the thread, thanks to Google! ]

Since I've got one A&A supercharger kit and two 5th gens, I have often thought about making my own. It wouldn't be rocket science to reverse-engineer what A&A did and assemble a new kit of parts doing pretty much the same thing, but neither would it be "cheap". Ethically, once he abandoned the market, he can't really blame people for thinking about resorting to "self-help". Unfortunately, I didn't measure anything before I installed mine, so I'd have to remove it from the bike to do that. If only someone with mad engineering and fabrication skills had had such a kit in his hands for an extended period of time before installing it... Ciao, JZH

After a while with these bikes you won't need to have seen it to know it was a VFR... Ciao, JZH

I was cleaning the garage and decided the safest place to put my blue '01's LH side fairing panel was...back on the bike. (It had been off since I had parked that bike just before Covid.) I'm now tempted to get it ready to ride again... Ciao, JZH

IMHO, you don't need to buy Honda for seals and bearings (Honda doesn't make either of them): most automotive bearings and seals are available through other distribution channels for a lot less than Honda charges. The problem I have with AllBalls and, I suppose, K&L and the others, is that they generally use the cheapest functional parts they can find. So, while the re-packaging is handy and easy to buy (one part number vs. four for a typical set of stem bearings), they can't really undercut the price of quality parts sourced from anywhere other than Honda. Figure out how to read part and bearing catalogs and you can get OEM quality (or better) at not much more than AllBalls price. Ciao, JZH

I believe Cycle Terminal has the red connector housings. Ciao, JZH

It's a BMW or DIN plug. You can get them in right-angle, which is probably what you need on the side of the bike: https://www.nippynormans.com/f800-adventure/nippy-normans-splash-proof-90-degree-din-plug-screw-fitment-of-wires Ciao, JZH

Delkevic almost certainly doesn't make gaskets. We just have to find the source they're buying from... Ciao, JZH

According to the professional motorsports wiring guys, the problem with solder connections is that solder embrittles the wire where the solder meets the rest of the un-soldered wire, creating more of a weak point than does a properly crimped butt connector. Both solder joints and crimp joints have to be done correctly and protected from the environment with adhesive-lined shrink tubing, but from what I have been reading over the past couple of years, toreckman's got it right with the heatshrink-crimps. Ideally, the three crimps would then be sealed within a long piece of adhesive-lined heatshrink, rather than leccy tape, however! Btw, whilst you're in there, you should see to that Big Orange Connector with all the GNDs. Especially if it is exposed to the environment like that it will only be a matter of time before corrosion begins to form on the terminals. A couple of years ago I would have said to solder them all together, but... Ciao, JZH

I definitely noticed... Ciao, JZH

I think this is the plug set you need for the R1 reg/rec: https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/secda19f77148/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/KYG3W-GREY Another, but more non-motorcycle UK source: https://www.auto-click.co.uk/QLW-A-3F-GR (You will need both the black and the grey connectors.) Another option is to buy a certain cheap-ish Triumph reg/rec sub-harness and snip off the Triumph-side connectors, but I don't have the part number to hand. (Found it: T2500676, but I see that it's no longer as cheap as buying the connectors alone.) Loads of info in this classic thread from TriumphRat: https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.104504/ Ciao, JZH

How about the guy (Blair, I think is his name) in Thailand? https://www.litetek.co/index.html No diaphragms that I can see, but other carb parts, and I've heard good things about them. Ciao, JZH

I don't have my spares to hand, but I believe I've swapped connectors around on M/Cs before. I think they have the same OD, so you can probably pull it out and replace it with the other one. Ciao, JZH

It's definitely possible on a 5th gen, but I haven't done it myself. Someone (greenVFR) on the UK VFR club website used to change mileage on 5th gens, but he passed away some years ago. The electronics to store mileage in non-volatile memory in an instrument panel is surprisingly unsophisticated. Most vehicles seem to store the mileage there, rather than in the ECU. I've done some research on this, as I will need to change the mileage reading on my Toyota Hiace when I do the engine swap (and use the instrument panel relating to the Lexus 3UZ engine). There's not much to it (no encryption, for example). You just need to be able to connect to the IC chip, read the information via serial adapter into a computer, calculate what the data should be, write it using a free software program and it's done. But this would be an unusual effort to go through when selling a vehicle, as in most cases the condition would give it away. Ciao, JZH

That is a very silver bike! The blacked out indicators/taillight finish it off nicely, too. Ciao, JZH

This isn't exactly a high-traffic website, but if Honda (or, rather, their IP lawyers) did get wind of it, they could send Miguel a letter. Jail time is vanishingly unlikely... Ciao, JZH

Someone (who hasn't had it dump their stuff all over the highway) will want that Tail Locker... Ciao, JZH

IIRC, a Shindengen part number beginning with SH is not a MOSFET type, so what is there is likely an aftermarket replacement (it is not OEM). If it's working (i.e., ~14v at 5,000rpm), then bring it with you as a spare! The yellow electrical tape job doesn't bode well for what's underneath, so check for corrosion and consider splicing the three yellow wires together without the connector. I would have said to solder and seal them with adhesive-lined heatshrink, but my recent "race-spec wiring harness" experience suggests that it would be more reliable to crimp them instead and seal them with adhesive-lined heatshrink. Also, it would be worth your while to unwrap the rectangular joiner (above the yellow taped wires in your pic) and check that GND block for corrosion as well. Some people ditch the connector block altogether and solder all the GND wires together (that would include me...), but I am now compelled to mention that an extra-large, kick-arse crimp would probably be better! Ciao, JZH

I missed the last run, so I really hope we get this one over the line! Maybe some eye-candy pics from those who have installed VFRD headers might help prime the pump? Ciao, JZH

And because it acts like a thread lubricant, the "proper torque" depends on whether you're using (or supposed to be using) threadlock (or anti-seize)... Just bear in mind that the torque readings given in the repair manual will be for "lightly oiled" threads, unless the manual specifies that the fastener is to be installed with anti-seize or threadlock. Thread lubricant can decrease the required torque reading by something like 25% (possibly more). [Re OEM rear sprocket nuts, yes they have a metal locking tab of some sort. I think they're called "Fuji" locking nuts.] Ciao, JZH

As this is a VFR, possibly a better use for that location would be to fit a voltmeter! Ciao, JZH