gig

My K&N oil filter that i had hand tightened, failed at the weld while ridding. Not a drip but pouring out. I was lucky, i was sitting at a traffic light a mile from home and someone pointed it out to me. it was flowing so much i thought it was a radiator hose leaking, so road home carefully watching the temp gauge, when i pulled in realized it was oil and had coated my rear tire.

If remove the heat shield and wrap the the rear downpipes in DEI "titanium" heat wrap, it works better / feels overall cooler, under the seat, than with the heat shield, In my opinion.

I installed a shorai battery LFX18A1-BS12, one size lager then the recommendation because I was worried about the VFR's drain and cranking. Lasted 6 years never connected to a tender only disconnected over the winter or when I knew I would not be riding for more then a week, never had an issue until my RR to stator connector burnt this spring. On my second shorai now.

So just to make sure I'm correct. I have a MotionPro Sync pro, which attaches to the the top of each tube pulling the fluid up. So if #3 and #4 need to be dropped, each valve needs to be closed more than, #1 and #2 to reduce vacuum, in turn lowering the fluid level vs #1 and #2 at idle?

wrap sand sand paper around the filter to hand tightten

I have a penski shock that was set up for my bike and weight. I had the valving and or shim stack adjusted by a suspension tuner during at a service a few years ago, and seams to be set up great. I Had race tech springs and valves and thought it was better then stock, but when I got the adjustable fork inserts built by Jamie a few years ago, for me that made the biggest difference.

VTR 100O FORKS lowers, Daughtry DMS custom built adjustable inserts, F4I calipers and master. Brembo rear caliper and master. someone on the forum is making a bracket for the Brembo

for the wheel and other bits google My 399 lb VFR848

I changed mine to HELL lines. Great product, exact match to OEM bends and all other hardware needed. I ran gallons of fluid through the lines over the next couple years and used all the tricks and suggestions on the forum and felt like I never got all the air out of the system. I Delinked with Hell lines a couple years ago, one of the best changes I made. Man it felt good to get rid of all that piping, SDMC, under the seat bleed valves, 5lb calipers, etc etc etc.If changing the lines delinking might be something to consider.

Akrapovic sells their springs in two different sizes, eliminates the rattling noise, don't rust, and they look the shit. On my two Bros, it uses all long and one or two of the shorter springs

Thanks Mello, its got a new battery, newish R/R and wiring. Ill do the drill today, and post the numbers 848 rear wheel, eccentric, brake conversion Thx

New battery, thought I had a parasitic drain, not losing much daily. Then checked charging volts while running, idle in 12s, up to 13.05 at 2000-2500, over that then back into the 12s. Stator correct? Thx

COP?

you need to replace the 2 o-rings that go from the thermostat into the cylinders, while your there, they will be disintegrated by now. You can get aftermarket boots, they are nicely made, I think made in Japan, well worth the cost for renewed flexibility. Maybe loose the tank braw from 2002, unless you really love it, I was shamed into removing mine 10 years ago, and it does bring it into the 21st century. Can we see a pic of the other side? Good times wrenching!

I logged on to you tube, and on my recommendations I see a Seb Speed clear clutch cover on the screen. "Moto pilot CBR/VFR bike build" on you tube

I subscribe to this mag, it was great to open up and see your bike in Practical/performance Bike mag last month

I've been away for the summer, good to see you both back

$32.00 on amazon