Terry

Sorry to hear about your bad experiences Alain. If you were still looking for a new wiring harness here is one for about US175 that is new. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/electrics/auction-1166275868.htm

Stormshadow, I think you will find it hard to get the oil-lock piece to slip back onto the damper from the top. Maybe you can fish the oil lock out from the top with a long piece of wire, magnets won't work as it is alloy not steel. If you get it out, stick it back on the end of the damper with small dab of grease to hold it during reassembly.

I put a shift kit into my 5th gen as I found the shifting sloppy and slow. There is no question in my mind that the shift kit made a huge difference to my riding enjoyment, my VFR is a joy to shift as a result.

View File Honda Common Service Manual 1988 Indexed version; great background info on how bikes work. Submitter Terry Submitted 04/28/2016 Category Owners Manuals and other

View File MCN 30 Years of VFR Comparison Article scan from MCN April 20, 2016 Submitter Terry Submitted 04/25/2016 Category Article Scans

I have done pretty much what you're planning (front forks re-sprung, revalved, brake de-linked, CBR929 shock installed), but on a 5th gen, and have also changed the suspension and brakes on my VTR1000F. For the fork you could buy RT parts (specifically a compression Gold Valve which comes with a handy bag of shims) and work out your own shim stacks (RT provide some good guidance), and make up spacers as needed to suit the springs that you have. You can use PVC pipe for spacers, very easy to cut and cheap. As long as the springs you are using aren't too long (ie they stick out the top of the extended forks) then they'll be fine with the correct spacer. For the shock you could make up an extended clevis to offset the shorter shock, and try the standard spring first. Or...you could buy all the correct parts from Jamie Daugherty who will provide you with the specific bits to suit your weight and preferences. He modifies the shock itself to make it longer, and alters the shim stack as well, and provides a rider-specific spring. IMO his fork part pricing is the same or a little below RT, for very similar parts, and his modified shocks represent very good value. One thing that may help your bike turn in is raising the rear and/or dropping the front to steepen the geometry. You can slide a spacer between the shock clevis and the frame (up to 5mm is pretty common) which will drop the back wheel by around 25mm, and the forks can be slid up through the clamps by up to 10mm before any hard parts make contact. This will make the steering livelier and more eager to drop into bends without affecting high speed stability too much. However in the first instance I'd make sure that you were running tyres that aren't badly worn e.g. squared off at the middle, as that will have a big effect on turn in.