MadScientist

Thank you so much for posting the dyno graphs with the target AFRs, that helps me out for autotune. Looks like Attack Perf is running slightly richer than what I've set my Autotune target AFRs at. I'd be interested to see the full fuelling map, though it doesn't really apply to me (I'm running a 3 bar FPR). I don't suppose they gave you a full map of AFR targets... On that PCV graph, now I see what other people are talking about with surging on the PCV. I wonder WTF is going on between 2000/01 ECUs and the PCV. I've had no such difficulties with my 98.

I'm fairly certain you are talking about exactly the same thing. On stator output wiring extensions, I think it is just the angle of the first photograph that makes those wires look small. Are those the three red wires we see in the second picture entering the latex tubing from the left? Ring to ring isn't a bad connection, there is a good amount of surface area and the fastener helps maintain good contact better that the spring tension of tin/copper terminals. Downside is that it isn't very pretty. I would encourage you to get brass screws rather than the zinc plated you are using. You've got a lot of dissimilar metals (including god knows what alloy the screws are actually made of) going on there and the chances of forming corrosion can be reduced. Think about the screws on an outlet or switch in your house, we are usually talking (plated) brass or tinned copper; I can't ever recall seeing steel of any kind. Maybe on really cheap stuff?

Absolutely correct. There is no way to cram more current through a circuit without changing the voltage applied or resistance of the circuit. CCA is just a measure of current capability, not the amount of current that is delivered. It wasn't a 24V jump box, was it? The problem here sounds like a resistive short (like corrosion bridging two terminals) in the ignition switch. The ignition switch is protected by a 30A fuse, however you can do a lot of damage before that fuse blows. Imagine if you have 20A flowing through the ignition switch through a ~1.5 ohm load on a 14V circuit for hours. The ignition switch is not designed to dissipate that kind of power and would predictably melt.

I can't say anything helpful about the first 3, so I'll just leave it alone. For number 4 - the PCV + AT uses the LSU 4.2 sensor (yes, 4.2), I'm not sure if this has been updated on newer units. They only sell one replacement regardless, so I'd assume they are all 4.2. Dimensions of the LSU 4.2 tip in mm given on picture. The only part with holes for sampling is the conical part at the very tip. I can think of no reason that any part further back would need to go in the exhaust stream. Number 5 - When it comes to me, I'm still just going to use the one sensor in the final merge. If I was a racer looking for every advantage, then I'd certainly tune by cylinder. YMMV.

I hate partzilla as well. When they do it, I just call Amex and do a chargeback. This fits most companies' and states' definition of a bad faith transaction. ....Back to our scheduled programming

If you are OK with the signals flashing really fast, then disregard this. If you want the normal signal flashing speed you will either have to add ballast resistors in parallel with the signal LED OR acquire a solid state flasher relay that doesn't rely on the resistance of an incandescent light for switching frequency. Ballast resistors: https://www.amazon.com/4Pcs-Aaron-6ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2WYD8NQ5HQQ0NAEFZD3A Flasher Relay: https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Electronic-LED-Hyper-Fix/dp/B00XAU66V4/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y4HD00YVM6XPBRZ8S3V8 Another possible issue by swapping from incandescent to LED is that your regulator-rectifier will have to dissipate more heat if it is of the shunt type (OEM, FH020AA) because this energy would normally be dissipated by the bulbs. If series (SH847) then this is not an issue. That said, this is a nearly trivial amount of energy, so it may not be an issue.

The bike doesn't know what gear it is in, but the PCV has vehicle speed and RPM inputs. I calibrated the PCV by entering the speed:rpm ratios for each gear by, you guessed it, riding around with a laptop stuck in a tank bag. This would be trivial to do with a dyno, however. You can purchase a display from powercommander that interfaces with the PCV and displays vehicle data, including the calculated gear position. I called it an 'internal gear indicator' because I can't actually see what gear it thinks I'm in, unless I have a laptop hooked up while riding.

As far as the PCV goes - I would say maybe. From the discussion here, there seems to be some kind of issue with the newer firmware and 5th gens. I have been running mine with no issues since 2010, I have also never updated the firmware. I run autotune all the time with a vacuum switch hooked up to turn the autotune off during overrun - I was getting really wonky trim values at low throttle openings until this was performed. I have tried running with autotune disabled and noticed no ill effects; of course this is just running the stored map built from the autotune data. If it is of consequence, I have calibrated the internal "gear indicator" and adjusted target AFRs for each gear, throttle position, and RPM. My O2 sensor is positioned in the 2nd merge collector (all 4 cyl) and I don't run any special offsets for the front vs. rear banks. I've been strongly considering MyTuningBike for the ability to run O2 sensors in each bank, but what I have works fairly well and the cost of entry for MTB is steep.

I had all 3 (5th, 6th, 8th) when doing my brake system. The 6th fits on the same slider bracket as the 5th and currently resides on my bike - however it is internally drilled for de-linkage. The piston diameters of the 6th are different from the 5th, but I don't have the exact measurements at the moment. Uses the same pads as the 5th gen. Even if you have the 8th gen slider bracket, the 8th gen is not a simple bolt on. If you aren't de-linking, the 8th isn't of interest anyway.

Mohawk's suggestion of ACF50 is definitely worth looking at, we used a similar sounding product called Weicon A-100 when I was in the service but I don't know where to get it. A thin coat of anti-seize is probably another good option. I doubt it would slip if lubricated, but I can't say for sure. For this reason I would avoid greases and other stuff that are primarily lubricants.

With PC5 running autotune, bosch 3 bar FPR, large airbox/dual trumpet mod, and Micron slip on I average about 40 mpg with about 60% of mileage on interstates and 40% stop and go city. I had poor economy several years ago that was resolved with replacement of the leaky stock fuel pressure regulator and injector cleaning. At the state of mods on your bike, I was averaging closer to 44 mpg.

Just to clarify, that was for the Alibaba supplier. I did go through the BW order process when I got the email and their shipping is fairly reasonable (I think like $50, but I don't remember). This deal may get better or worse for everyone outside the UK depending how Brexit proceeds. That said, the exchange rate is actually pretty good right now, so it might be something of a gamble to wait.

@Voided76, I'd be interested to know what kind of shipping quote you get for San Diego. I went through most of the process to find that it is cost prohibitive to order a single unit for delivery to Milwaukee. The quote I got was over $800 for shipping alone, not including import duties and taxes or the actual product itself. Maybe I'm doing it wrong?

Lol, I've lost count of how many of these header builds have fallen though...

I'm still interested, and it seems we actually have a prototype this time. If someone is compiling a list, go ahead and add me.

So just to be clear for anyone reading this, go with the kit or homebrew your own (if you know what you're doing). Just swapping to a different R/R alone will not alleviate the symptoms of poor wiring and corroded connections.

The two products are entirely different. Changing your R/R will not fix the borderline inadequate OEM wiring. IDK if the terminals on a VFRness are compatible with an SH847, but if I had to choose between the two, it would be the wiring upgrade. If the SH847 comes with upgraded wiring, say in a kit, then this would be the ideal solution.

It's your bike and your money. Keep in mind that you are fitting a light that is not designed for the housing and not DOT approved. In the event that you are in an accident, your insurance company has the right to deny coverage and leave you liable for all the damages. If another driver is involved, you are also leaving yourself wide open to a lawsuit whether the lights are directly responsible for the accident or not. There are other technical reasons not to do this, but I won't bother explaining as most people will ignore them and believe the placebo effect anyway. Plus, you will be one of those assholes that blinds everyone else at night.

I think if you try the Chinese levers, you may be pleasantly surprised. I was a little leery about it at first, but that was almost a decade ago now. I will say the fit and machining isn't always perfect, since I've installed a few sets on different bikes now and some have required a shim or a bushing to improve the up and down slop. Hell, if you don't like them I bet you can unload them here for what you paid. That and a set costs about 1/3 of the price of one ASV lever. For that kind of savings, I'll do a little work to improve the fit. Oh, and try to avoid anything with red anodizing since it fades to a hideous pink color.

All the speed bleeders in the world won't help you if the master is airlocked.

Thank you both for the input, I think I'll go check out the aprilia forum.

Thanks for the input. About the stators, I thought I read somewhere that the last 2 years have a slightly different design but I can't find it now. Any idea if this is the case? VFR4Lee - did you have stator problems? I don't know the precise differences between LA and Sydney climates, but perhaps this is a problem exacerbated by high ambient temperatures.

The opportunity to pick up a low mileage, mildly farkled 2nd gen Tuono has presented itself to me. Anybody here own one now or in the past? What did you have trouble with or hate about it? Any good mature forums without a bunch of owner circle jerk going on? I've long been dreaming of a replacement for my long gone Monster with a big, high(ish) revving twin, with a good chassis and brakes. On a related note, the 599 will be moving on soon if the Tuono deal goes through.

If you haven't already ordered a front sprocket, I (and probably others) prefer the OEM version with the polymer bumper. Like the one shown here: http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTF339RB/ Your current front sprocket is aftermarket.

Two potential mechanical culprits this sounds kind of like: 1. Vacuum leak - those lines are almost 20 years old. When I rebuilt mine there were a few questionable looking lines. 2. Fuel Pressure Regulator - the internal vacuum diaphragm and gaskets break down leading to fuel pouring through the vacuum line and into the #3 cylinder throttle body. Could be electrical gremlins or dirty injectors. Additionally, if the bike sat for some years, there may have been rust in the tank that subsequently plugged up the in-tank fuel filter. I'd lay off the O2 sensors for now. Eliminating them may identify the O2 sensors as the culprit, but it may also make diagnosis more troublesome.