Monk

But had I not, the worms would have died

Right... Thx, Dave .......

I use the regular fuel... So you're saying that it "won't" harm my '08(dry out) any rubber/plastic parts ? That's the reason I use it........ (I'll also read your links)....Thx.

I use about 1 or 2 ounces per tank, and about every 2nd/3rd tank.Seafoam I use a few ounces every 2 / 4 months, Or if it feels like it might need some(water in the "ground tank"). Also will use some SF in the oil prior to draining my sump(run it about 30 miles with 2/4 ounces).

I noticed on the new apps thread there is an app for finding non-ethanol fuel in local areas(if there are any to be found). As it stands now there are very few left and "those ppl that do what they do" are in the process of trying to go to E15 which hasn't happened yet(with the help of the AMA). So I didn't want to get off topic in the apps thread (which I can see when a interesting app is brought up, the potential to get side tracked on the off spring of what the apps for can be tempting). That being said, I think it would be nice to locate pure gas, but that's very limited to find even with the help of the app. So what can we do in the mean time. I use an additive in the gas to help lub the fuel system to retard the effects of the drying effects of the ethanol. There may be more products that do this but I just use one I feel works. Octane boost is not it. I'm not getting anything from this stuff, And I couldn't sware it works, but it's suppose to lub the top end where the gas is used. I do know my older Jeep runs smoother using it, and my lawnmower. As far as the bike it's such a powerful engine that it's hard to see the difference, but I believe it helps. "Marvel Mystery Oil"

You can always cut holes in the side of your panels and install hi-way pegs to the frame like the bikes without panels.

One thing I've found that helps on long rides is to do a few squats till it burns while riding......... or if you can't do it moving, stop and do it off the bike.... but the main thing is do it till it burns.........

IMO. I'd go with the "less is best" for comfort as far as the stitching goes ...... Two areas to watch, bottom of butt, and inside thigh. If you think the thigh seams will rub, then till them so the can shim out that area .........

You can take your seat and have them(local upholstery shop) add some padding to the front and shave the corners off the edge. As long as that's the only discomfort.

Even though you prefer a longer lever, what was your opinion of the shorter (broken) version on the ride back to Ohio? How many fingers do you use when/where on a normal long lever. Where I'm coming from is a 3-day class with Keith Code in the early 80's. At that time I was using all 4 on the lever, and he told me to adjust to my own strength, as some may use 1 finger and someone else may use 3 or 2. The key is to find control to get her slowed down, without losing traction. So if I use too many fingers, I'm more likely to apply too much. He said to learn to use a different amount of fingers for the application needed at the time, and that a lot of riders find a hand position and never try anything else, that "with any" riding changes it's going to take time using the new change to see if it works better. Back to me and not KC. I've noticed some ppl that keep their thumb and index around the throttle and brake with the out-side fingers(as was mentioned from a post from Mello Dude about leverage) .... I've even tried this but found it was harder on my hand to hold in that position(I did give it some time) where as I can ride all day with one finger lying over the lever and no hand cramps(it even fills uncomfortable with all four on the throttle).

Yes, Because I switch the amount of fingers I use depending on what's going on. If I'm going though S's I use one finger........ VS's a hard braking situation where I'd use 3 fingers. Now it's easier/faster.

I've tried those on other ppls bikes and the shorties are to long for me, there was a set that I liked on a BMW , they where aftermarket for the Beemer "only".

Well - I think your nutz, your giving up a lot of leverage when you really need to grab a handful of brake. - But to each his own. I'd agree, if I didn't know from my past history of riding (with a few panic stops thrown in) that the part of the lever that I did use in those instances are still on the bike. That's what gave me a "Where should I cut" line.

1st I'd like to say this post is a prim example of how thoughtful the ppl are on this forum, out of 77 ppl that viewed it, not one made a bad comment about my mod to my brake lever. So to move on with the function that I was trying to achieve ... I love it, it is so much easier to switch the amount of fingers I'm using, which I have been doing for years, and with the lever being shorter I can swing my fingers around the end much faster than keeping them curled until I clear from under it. The problem I've been having with the after market shorties is, they weren't short enough for what I wanted. So if you can't buy it, make it. I went over it today after my ride and did the muti-diff grades of water sandpapers to clean'er up.

Just reduced the length of my stock front brake lever. 1st cut it off square with my angle cutter ; Then rounded the end to the shape I wanted on my bench grinder Then used my wire wheel BG'r to smooth things out ; next using my Dremmel I made a indent/scoop at the end of the lever for my finger and smoothed it all out ; Then using my dremmel again with jewelers tips took out the imperfections and glossed the finish, which I'll get back on it tomorrow as I still see areas I need to work on with assorted sandpapers.

Glad it works for ya'........... Just saying I've had 4 bikes I put 100k miles each and never needed to fix my clutches........... but I don't do a lot of high rpm shifting, so that may have something to do with it.

Not sure I see the diff ' between pre-loading the shift and clutch, and pre-loading the shift and pushing the button?

It's not that easy due to trying to line it up but it can be done........ Drill a new hole ! The levers are going to stop rotating down because the reservoirs will hit the risers... It's the button clusters that need the holes drilled for.

This is what I used for years ........ no staking needed , one loop pole (sections) compressed to 6x9 inches. http://www.rei.com/e.../bivy+sack.html

I was going to ask what wt oil you're using , I'm running 5 wt. (and it varies with brand o/oil). Note: I'm not speaking from my own knowledge, it was worked out for me. I have a sonic 1.0 with 5wt......... I'm 250 .... and carry 5lb t-bag(always) ....and 15 lb tail bag(always). My frt is granked almost all the way...... works great release the brake and it comes back up and stays there except for a slight settle (but no po-go).....(not that I normally release the brake that way while riding, I smoothly release it). Anyway oil can be a big factor.

They could have asked a better question. If you like rules so much, why do you ride a motorcycle? I'll step in on this one...... Riding a MC doesn't mean you have no rules .......... If you choose to obey/or not is your choice ....... But group rides calls for you to do what is voted on by the group or don't ride with them .......... 1st rule is not to put others in the group in danger .... Then there are rules to help people not get lost from the group when separated due to catching a light, or going to slow as to see where they went, the rule to help this is to have someone wait for the catch-up rider at the place where the group changed directions. That is just an example of some usefull rules. I've seen group rides where people have gotten hurt, where the same riders probably wouldn't have, had they been riding by themselves, or have obeyed the rules. You have to ride in a group like you're on your own as far as your own safety is concerned, but group riding rules are for everyone in the groups safety.