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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/29/20 in all areas

  1. I have seen a similar situation with an aircraft heavy duty relay many years ago where the arcing of contacts with the high current caused the contacts to weld themselves together. Hitting the Kill Switch accidentally should not cause any issue as it's just the same effect as releasing the Starter Switch. The other thing you should check for is the starter relay wiring connector making sure you don't have some kind of short from your Main 30amp Fuse A to the Yellow/Red wire. This would have the same effect of a permanently energized relay. Either way I wouldn't hesitate in replacing the Starter Relay. Hope your Starter Motor survived the ordeal! You can run some operational checks of the Stater Relay on the bike by disconnecting the main heavy lead from the Relay that goes to the Starter Motor. Checking voltages, continuing and operation, it just won't be powering the Starter Motor in this state. If the Relay continues to remain in a closed state with the 30amp Main Fuse A removed then that would be a good sign of welded main contacts, or even a broken internal return spring. Keep us posted with what you discover ShipFixer as this is a rare situation you have.
    2 points
  2. While replacing front sprocket I noticed the tell tale signs of a leaking clutch slave cylinder so decided to just go ahead and order rebuild parts. Here's what improper maintenance service intervals looks like. It's all fixed now, had to use some 600 grit paper and penetrating fluid to clean up the inside of the slave cylinder bore but it was salvageable. I bought a K&L slave piston and rebuild kit with all the rubber parts. Now onto inspecting the clutch plates because in the garage, not running, the bike has a pretty sticky clutch. From initial visible inspection with the side cover off it looks like it is disengaging correctly.
    2 points
  3. Good looking Bike👍 I did the Sabsteef remote Ecu flash and its very good...Before the ecu reflash i had the boosterplug installed.... Here is a dyno with boosterplug (No reflash) And without boosterplug after Sabsteef remote Ecu reflash... Info. Honda VFR 1200 F 2011. Scorpion factory slip-on..(Carbon) Helibars handlebar risers. 5 gear test 162 HP (wheel) 5 gear test 132 NM (wheel) No print🤯 Red line Sabsteef Ecu reflash. 39.000 km. Blue line Boosterplug installed. 36.600 km.
    1 point
  4. Your average Dutch female could be a model...
    1 point
  5. Brakes only slow you down! So this bike was bought at auction with no contact with the previous owner, so what you see is what you get. This bike came with the stock front brakes minus the master cylinder and lever assembly in a box. Instead it had a set of Brembo 320mm rotors and Goldline calipers with matching axial master cylinder installed. The lever feel when I got the bike was horrible, very short and firm, seemed like it would not provide good feel or modulation. Good thing I wasn't planning to just ride it. I flushed the system then removed the calipers from the fork to make it easier to inspect their condition and operation. Turns out other than a lot of brake dust they were in good shape. Pads were good, just needed grooves cleaned out, all the fastening hardware cleaned and everything put back together. I also gently pushed the pistons back in the calipers about 1/4" just to see if they would move freely and they did. Put everything back on the bike, flushed and bled system and now the lever feel is quite good! I like it. I also sanded and painted the brake fluid reservoir cup lid because it was in bad shape from fluid leakage. It does appear to seal correctly and is not leaking, I think it was just some lazy sloppy mechanic behavior. I will watch for any leaks when I ride the bike but I already bought one of those sweat band looking covers. One of the interesting parts of this bike for me is the full-floating rotors, this is new to me. These calipers are not floating so the rotors have to be. When I first pushed the bike around the driveway to load it on the trailer I thought there was something broken in the fork because when I would hit the front brake I could hear something loose, I thought it was a spring issue. Turns out it was the rotors and this is normal. The rotor design looks the same as my other bikes, the ZRX for example, but that bike has floating calipers and non-floating rotors, the same two piece connected with buttons design though. Here is the ZRX, non floating and 6 buttons: And the Brembo's, floating, 12 buttons: When you grab these rotors you can move them with your hand. Anyway, pretty cool I guess, supposed to be lower drag and full race. Here is good video showing the results of the two types of systems - The rear brakes are all stock and in good enough condition for a couple of test rides. I did go through them the same as the front, cleaned them, inspected condition and flushed and bled the fluid. I can see a new rear rotor and a set of pads in the future.
    1 point
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