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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/03/2019 in all areas

  1. I was late to slo1’s original post offering a new rear caliper mount for 4th and 5th Gens, but by the time I found it, eyrwbvfr had come up with a very nicely designed easier mounted adapter. So I jumped on it, having years ago swapped front ends and done the crossover line to link up the three pistons on the rear caliper, but not really liking that whole thing. Unmounted stock caliper with the crossover line: What a beautiful looking piece: Mounted right up perfectly, mounting holes were exactly right and a couple spare bolts I had laying around: This was the orientation of the bleeder and banjo coming from a Duc 1098, but upon disassembly I noticed that everything was perfectly symmetrical including the holes for the bleeder and banjo. Both are the same size and conical at the bottom, so they are interchangeable. Good clearances all around: Split the caliper for thorough cleaning, totally symmetrical front to back (as mounted): When I did the front end conversion and the crossover line to the rear I had the original mounting bolts drilled for safety wire since the fronts were and the rear basically never has to come off. By the same token, it basically is never looked at to ensure everything is tight. I could use the original already drilled bolts, but I still needed 2 new bolts to mount the caliper to the adapter. I could get drilled stainless from ProBoltUSA, but the ti are right there for a few many dollars more. Since I am getting 2 new drilled ti bolts, I should get all 4 so they match. Better go ahead and get some new ti caliper assembly bolts and bleed screw while they are apart. Why not get a drilled titanium banjo bolt? Safety first! That's where it all kinda went pear shaped on me. I ordered the ti bolts on June 30. After a week I emailed to see where they might be in the process and was told that the bleeder was backordered until 7-19. On 7-26 I called to ask again and was told the final parts were due in and would be shipped on 7-29. Finally got shipping notice on 7-31, fully a month after I ordered! So they came in today (8-2) and I got everything assembled: Ok, I'm no pro at safety wiring but I don't think anything is going anywhere... I haven't had a chance to ride it yet. Definitely have to "bed in" the pads, but it bled out pretty easy. I'll likely fit some sort of abrasion shield on the line there in the last pic where it touches the hanger. Notice that I swapped the banjo and bleeder from the earlier pics. Also, I took both calipers to the post office to weigh them on the scale there. 3 lb, 2.4 oz for the stocker with all bolts and the crossover line still attached. Brembo caliper with all titanium bolts and the adapter bracket mounted was 1 lb, 7.8 oz! (Pads included in both weights)
    5 points
  2. From the album: Random Pics From The Road

    I could be better at it.
    3 points
  3. NGK Tech bulletin points out the fact that plugs are not bare steel rather they are Zinc or Nickel plated to prevent seizing... so no lube is needed...
    3 points
  4. I'm trying to imagine an 82 year old rider with chromed wheels and neon lights. I'm having a hard time seeing it. 🙂
    1 point
  5. "Can of worms have I opened" Yoda
    1 point
  6. That . . . is the best cover photo I've seen in a v*e*r*y long time. If by "better at it" you mean be better at photography, it can't be by very much because you are superb - that is an awesome shot.
    1 point
  7. Running your prized VFR on a new chain with worn sprockets is bike abuse... always go with new unless you close your wallet with a torque wrench...
    1 point
  8. Always use a dab of anti-seize on all sparkplugs on all my vehicles, car, truck, bike, heck even the lawnmower. But honestly, as long as you aren't putting the sparkplugs in while the engine is hot you'll probably be fine. The Dodge Cummins is the only one that doesn't get anti-seize on the plugs.
    1 point
  9. Spark Plugs are installed dry because 1)Anti-seize whether silver or copper works as a lubricant so torque values are increased higher than necessary... 2)Anti-seize whether silver or copper works as a insulator so the metal to metal contact between plug and head is altered the way it sheds heat and sets correct operating temp... You'll find this job is easier if you first heat up the engine to operating temp and then break torque... heat expands the grip on the threads... Maintenance malpractice is why spark plugs threads are stressed namely someone incorrectly uses too much installation torque... either they confuse inch pounds with foot pounds or they have the strength of a Diesel mechanic and just work with too much force...
    1 point
  10. Ok...so it's settled then. Use some but don't use any. Good.
    1 point
  11. Yes, I've found this on wet clutch bikes. Get the oil level right ! Dealers seem to overfill ..
    1 point
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